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Mod Blog: A Tribute to Tributes!

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:54:56 -0600

It’s natural that after modding a few cases of your own you come to realize that you really don’t need anymore mods in your own space. Ignoring that silly feeling - you mod a few more cases until you realize you really don’t have room for anymore mods. Alas, a single home has limits on the number of mods it can take. Yet, you still need to scratch that modding itch. What’s a modder to do?

Stop looking at the cat that way.

Fear not modder friends! There is a solution.

The Tribute Mod.

Tribute mods solve a few problems. They let us mod without our end product ending up in storage for lack of room. They provide a person or group with a super unique case (if not entire system). They get a modder exposure – they inspire – and frankly, it’s just a flat out cool thing to do. If you can’t mod for yourself, mod for others!

You can find examples of tribute PC’s all over the interwebs from modders who are on their first or second piece, to folks like Paul Capello, Stu King, or Bill Owen - who together have done dozens of top end mods. Of course, if searching the interwebs seems too daunting a task, you can look no further than our own Maximum PC forums where we have examples of a few tribute PCs. In fact, member and accomplished modder XcaliburFX recently completed his tribute mod “Venimus, Vidimus, Vicimus” for a special member of his 5 year old game clan (5 years!). The system shows a pretty unique blend of etching both metal and plastic. I’m sure we’ll see it at the Mod Shop soon!

Keep on moddin’ folks – and consider doing it for a cause!

Today’s bling is actually another thread in our forums - this one has plenty of chrome :)

XcaliburFX images from Maximum PC Forums.

Maximum Modding News: October

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Sat, 27 Oct 2007 13:38:04 -0500

I’ll take Modding for $1000 Alex: Actually, try closer to $2000. The Mod Shop is down to the final battle of its first full blown tournament. Get your votes in! This also means there are already winners! The tourneys have prizes for the top eight competitors, not just the eventual numero uno! Cash prizes total $2000, but copies of Windows Vista Ultimate are among the non-cash prizes. By my math, that’s over $4K in cash and premium schwag for each tourney! Get your votes in and get your rig in. The next tourney will start before you know it (and previous top winners have to sit on the bench). New entries have to acquire “props” to get into competitions, so enter sooner rather than later.

You are Authorized: Entering a rig (or even winning) at the Mod Shop doesn’t mean you can’t enter other competitions. The Rig Of The Month is always open and picks winners (oddly) once a month. Prizes vary, but November’s winner picked up a $500 shopping spree at Buy.com. Not bad. To enter, send an email to rig AT MaximumPC DOT com with a few hi-rez digital pics and a 300 word write up.

Halloween Is Here!: What does Halloween have to do with modding? Well, what other time of the year can you easily find ghoulish modding materials on the cheap? Nothing says uber mod better than fog rolling out of your case after a three hour session of Peggle. Hit your local craft stores and stock up!

Houston, We Have RSS: A number of modding sites have rss news feeds. MaximumPC’s Mod_Blog and Rig of The Month (ROTM) are no exception. For the Mod Blog you can catch your weekly update by dropping http://www.maximumpc.com/rss/The+Mod+Blog/feed into your reader. If for some reason you need your ROTM fix, but can’t seem to find a copy of MaximumPC nearby (for shame!), subscribe yourself to http://www.maximumpc.com/rss/Rig+of+the+Month/feed. The entries will not be as up to date as what you can expect from the magazine – but hey – it’s the quick cure for when you need the quick fix.

Happy Moddin’ and Happy Halloween!

Today’s bling is especially for Paul Lilly and all you other C64 fans out there. It’s an extensive mod of a (real) C64 system at BigMech . Thanks to Metku Mods for turning us on to this one.

Cutting a Circular Window: Part Deux

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Sat, 20 Oct 2007 17:04:27 -0500

Last week I made a pattern for installing a circular window in a side panel and started the cutting. I used a Dremel Stylus with a fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheel to make a first pass. Eventually, the completed mod will be a “window in window” side panel for project Nautilus. This was also a good opportunity to put the Stylus through some hard core testing.

As I mentioned last week, it would take multiple passes to complete the window cutting. The key is to be patient. The less metal you take off during a pass, the better the final result – but the longer it will take. As you get to the last couple passes, you will see the metal begin to blister on the back side of the panel. Resist the urge to just “go for it” – let the tool do the cutting – don’t force it. A few passes later, and the cut will be complete.

For me, this cut took 10 passes with the Stylus. I originally started with a setting of 6.5, but ramped that up to 8 after the second pass. I figure that’s about 18,000 RPM, and it cuts much better. It seemed like I would never get through, but on the tenth pass the center finally gave way.

The Stylus worked great and is perfect for someone new to rotary tools. It has lower torque than AC powered models which makes it easier to control. At a setting of 8, I could only get one or two passes before I needed to let it cool or dock it for a recharge (about 10-15 minutes running time) and the cuts were not as deep as what you would get from a corded model. The result is forced patience on to the user and slower, better cuts - perfect for a first timer.

With the cut finished, I switched to a bonded grinding nib. I used this to quickly go over the back edge of the cut at about 45 degrees. The idea here is to remove the “flash” (metal flakes) left from making the cut. Then I switch to 200-300 grit sandpaper to clean up the edge. Be careful here – a small burr could go right through the sandpaper into a finger. I didn’t have any areas to “tune up”, but if you do, try the sand paper first, and if that will not work, go back to the rotary tool with the grinding nib.

I don’t try to get “perfect”, just “good”, because I will be covering the edge. That said, covering the edge is no reason not to put some effort out. That feeling of pride lingers a bit longer when you know that under any covering there is still quality work.

Speaking of covering the edge, I’m using “U” channel rubber on this window.
It’s easy to install and gives a great look. You can find it at many automotive stores, or MNPCTech will sell you a 6 foot roll. A piece of black electrical tape is perfect if you want to hide the seam.

That’s about it for today. This mod is just part of a window in window mod I will be doing over the next few weeks. It’s part of “Project Nautilus” which I hope to have up at the Mod Shop soon. Project Nautilus is a Jules Verne inspired mod. I think you can get an idea of where I’m headed from the image below.

Happy Moddin’!

Today’s bling is from the Mod_Shop. It’s modder Oldman’s Dragon Case Mod Log. Collect Them All!

Square Panel, Round Hole: Cutting a Circular Window.

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 19:43:13 -0500

Cutting a window into a case can be a stumbler for many folks. There are a few different ways to it – all with their own pro’s and con’s. I like using a rotary tool with a cutting wheel. Of course, cutting a window is only part of getting it done. First, you have to design the window. I want to eventually do a “window in window” side panel mod. To start, I want a 12” or so round opening in my side panel. Thus my first problem – I’m no good with perfect circles! How do I get this round hole in my square side panel?

I could use a fancy compass. In fact, I have a few and one is large enough to do 12”. However, I have had bad luck with compasses slipping. So, I figure a large dinner plate is just about perfect. Unfortunately, there is a directive straight from the Queen that kitchen materials not be used in the shop.

This called for activation of special operation "Cat's Cradle ". I’m just the one for it.

“The name is Base: Manta_Base.”

I pulled out a $20 and dropped my line, “Honey, there’s a yard sale down the street. I’m going to be running the air compressor and it’s a bit loud – even in the house. Why don’t you see if they have anything good?”

With my subterfuge in operation, I hurried my work. The pattern on the plate is Marisol (Sea and Sun). They were made in Italy for Williams-Sonoma. I don’t know who the Williams-Sonoma family is, or how we got their dishes, but they are pretty nice ones.

Using the plate to help me, I put tape around where the cut will eventually be. This is for a number of reasons. First, it acts as a non-skid for the plate. Second, it takes writing better than the painted metal. Last, during cutting, it will offer some protection for my occasional slips.

With the pattern in place, it’s on to the cutting (after returning the plate to the kitchen). As, I said, I’m using a rotary tool with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel. Some tips are in order:

- Always wear eye protection – seriously.
- Ear protection is strongly advised.
- Let the tool do the work – that’s what it is for. Pushing on it to make it cut faster will actually break the wheel (and possibly the tool).
- Always cut in the direction opposite of rotation. Otherwise, you are asking for the tool to jump out of your hand (well, try to anyway).

And, of course, the standard disclaimer:

Any safety reminders given herein are not to be taken as a substitute for proper training and, if required, supervision. You (the reader) are solely responsible for any outcome, positive or negative, resulting from the use of this information.

With that, we begin...

Patience is the key. It will take five or so passes to make this cut. On your first pass you are simply getting through the tape and scoring the metal. On my second pass I typically change out the cutting wheel for a new one. The tape has a tendency to undress (“plug up”) the wheel . Try for perfect, and then settle for not having it – that’s the way of the Dremel, and we will shape up the finished cut. Work in short intervals (5-10 minutes). Most rotary tool are not designed to run for extended periods of time, so take many breaks. Speed wise, I set my Stylus to 6 or 7. I think that’s about 15,000 RPM.

This will take a while. I have five passes to make and I’m out of room. We'll pick this little project up next week and I'll complete the hole and dress up the edges. Until next time…

Happy Moddin’

Click here for Cutting a Circular Window: Part Deux

Today’s bling was dug up by Maximum PC forum Moderator Flytrap7. It’s the contest gallery at another place referred to as MPC. Atomic MPC’s Monthly Showcases

Edited 10/13/07 - Reason: to address the comment of vaemor.

Edited 10/20/07 - Reason: to add link to continuation.

The Mod Shop: Hone Your Battle Modding Skills

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Fri, 05 Oct 2007 19:31:10 -0500

Well, the Mod Shop has been open for about a week now and the first round of the first Tournament Battle is about to end! Get your votes in. Next round will be 32 systems in 16 battles. You don’t have to have a mod to vote – just go through the battles and see which you like and exercise your freedom of mod choice. Push that vote button!

However, if you are a modder, here are a few tips from Sam Tzu’s (Sun Tzu distant cousin) Ancient Art of War Modding (Of which I have the only copy – thank you. Paid $17.23 and a collectable Buzz Cola).

“The Peacock does not impress with tail down”

When you post pics to your mod log, remember to pick your featured image wisely. This is the image all will see first. Put your best foot forward! The image size of the Battle preview image (your featured image as seen during battle) is 250 x 375 (portrait). For best results, make sure your featured image is that ratio and at least that size.

“Guests will not come to dinner if you don’t invite them.”

The Mod Shop uses tags to help visitors and members alike navigate around to mods they find interesting. Choose your tags wisely. A tag so unique only your mod has it will not be very useful and will get hidden in the list. But, a very broad tag (like “Computer Mod”) will leave your mod swimming in a crowded sea other mods. It is best to pick most of your tags from ones already in use. Then pick one or two tags that are more specific (hay, new tags have to start somehow).

“Modding is not just about Battle”

The Mod Shop is not simply a place to put mods up for battle. It is a unique solution to the old problem of trying to fit the round peg of the “Mod Log” into the square hole of the typical forum format. When you register for the Mod Shop, you effectively get your own mod log space in a format that is catered to mod logging. You choose when (and if) your rig is ready for battle. If you wish, you can skip all the battles and just use the Mod Shop to host your logs. You can even pick a custom linked image to post in your home forum and bring folks to your log (that would be Maximum PC’s Modder’s Workshop right?). Think of it as a mix of a modder’s “My Space” and “You Tube” for modders. Of course, if you don’t enter a tourney, you can’t win! Did I mention there are (BIG) prizes?

Happy moddin’

Today’s bling is DeathStarChris’ Maximum PC Mod. Forum member Wolf stumbled on this glorious rig last week (Over at Fusionmods.net ). Rumor has that it will be in the Mod Shop very soon!

Steampunk'd Modding

Chris "MantaBase" Adcock — Sun, 30 Sep 2007 15:14:23 -0500

I imagine a world where crude oil was never discovered. Steam is still the major source of mechanical power and plastic was never developed. It’s a world not unlike the one that spawned The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. A world found in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea (One of my favorite books) or select episodes of The Wild Wild West . It’s a world of steam and brass - a world of 21^st century Victorian style and innovation.

That’s steampunk style in a nutshell. I don’t know what it is in me that draws me to it. I think it must have to do with the craftsmanship required to build steampunk devices. Which is ironic, because I have to admit that steampunk modding is beyond me - at least right now.

The world of steampunk is big. There are books, projects, fully functional steam engine kits (and yes – they can blowup), movies, comics, magazines, and of course – many steampunks. There’s even a Wiki entry (that’s how you know you hit the big time!).

When you say “steampunk” and “computer” in the same breath, a hand full of names pop into your head (ok – maybe not…just work with me here). Among those names is Jake Von Slatt, the proprietor of The Steampunk Workshop. He’s the guy who made the famous steampunk keyboard and flat panel monitor. He’s been in Make magazine, Popular Science and should be appearing on Wired Science (PBS) in October.

Of course, he’s being mentioned on the Mod_Blog, and that’s his greatest achievement I’m sure.

Maybe I will try some steampunk modding. Hmm….. "Manta Von Base" does have a nice ring to it.

Today’s Bit of Bling is the Steampunk Workshop. As a bonus, check out Doc Datamancer’s steampunk scanner mod . And, if you have the finances, Doc might build you a Von Slatt keyboard.

Images courtesy of Jake Von Slatt

Dremel Stylus 1100

Chris Adcock — Fri, 14 Sep 2007 19:03:16 -0500

Over the past week or so I have been doing some window etching with a new (kinda) tool. I’ve run the Dremel Stylus Model 1100 through its paces and I have to say – stencil me impressed.

Dremel, as you may know, makes a variety of rotary tools. In the past I have found their cordless solutions “ok” but not stellar. They typically give somewhat improved handling in exchange for power and short battery life. The cordless Stylus is an exception. The 7.2 volt lithium-ion battery gave me well over an hour of intermittent use without a charge. In fact, I got an hour of use from it out of the box without charging. You can hold the Stylus a number of ways and frankly, I felt I had better control over it than my flex shaft tools. Unlike some of the other cordless “Dremels” I’ve used, the Stylus feels solid and substantial. It actually feels like a “real” Dremel (well, I guess it is – it says so on the top of it).

The Stylus won’t replace my 300 series or Craftsman Classic - it will not fit into Dremel accessories (like the router attachment or drill press). It will, however, free up my other rotary tools to be dedicated to some of those accessories.

I don’t typically recommend tools, but if you have never used a rotary tool – or like the idea of a cordless, I think I can recommend you at least look into a Stylus.

To be fair, Dremel is not the only good rotary tool on the market. I consider it more one of the best of its class and certainly the best known. There are other rotary tools out there that are “pro” grade, such as those from Foredom. Yet, you will pay for such a quality tool and they are really made for people who use them daily.

TIP: If you have never used a rotary tool before, read the manual closely and I suggest practicing by polishing an old door knob or some such. Rotary polishing may not be that useful in modding, but it is a great way to get the feel for a new rotary multi-tool.

Happy Modding!

Our bling comes from CoolerCasesUK from YouTube – Yamaha 50^th anniversary Mod

Computer Upholstery: Part Two

Chris Adcock — Fri, 07 Sep 2007 19:51:13 -0500

Last week I laid the foundation of upholstering a panel for a system. This week I got to actually adding the fabric and installing it. I have to tell you – lessons were learned.

Once you have your backing piece finished, the upholstery part isn’t terribly difficult. You will need a staple gun, batting (available at craft stores), your fabric, some good scissors, a utility knife, and spray adhesive/mastic (I like 3M Super 77 or Hi-Strength 90, but any similar product should work).

The next step is to cut out the batting. I used two layers because my batting was thin. The batting gives the panel a bit of padding. Without it, your results will be a bit lack luster and contain hard to remove wrinkles. How much padding you want is up to you, but if you want more than an inch, you will want to use a foam insert between the batting and backing board.

Measuring out the fabric has an important caveat. I’m leaving about an inch all the way around. This extra material will be used to attach the fabric to the backing piece. Don’t cut out the hole (if you have one) just yet.

With all the pieces cut, it’s time for adhesive. You want to coat the back of the fabric and the top of the batting (the side that will come in contact with the fabric) with a generous layer of adhesive. Use a ventilated room and follow any instruction on the can. After you apply it, wait 15-20 minutes before moving on.

Assembly just requires stacking the pieces and securing them. I like to spray a bit more adhesive along the edge of my backing material after I’ve stacked them (ok – so maybe I have done this before – once).

With the pieces in place, it’s much like wrapping a present (consult a female if this is new to you). You simply fold the edges over and use the adhesive to hold them in place. Then put staples in every few inches. The corners may give you some trouble. You can cut some of the extra material off, being careful not to cut too much. For the hole, cut a star pattern in the fabric with a utility knife and fold the pieces back. It’s a good idea to staple them as well. The fan mounting holes required me to stick a small nail through the back (for locating) and make very tiny cross cuts with a utility knife on the fabric side.

At that point, it’s all over but the tellin’! I mounted the panel and had a look. I’m pretty happy with the results, especially considering this was a “proof of concept” for me. The slight lifting at the corners can be taken care of with small bolts. With a nice brass fan grill, I’ll get just the look I’m after.

A few pointers I picked up along the way:

The staples I used would not go very deep into the backing. The typical solution is to use shorter staples. However, I was already using the smallest staples I could find for my staple gun. The hardboard is actually too hard for this technique. Quarter inch or thinner plywood might be better. As a stop gap, I used a small hammer to flatten the staples out. It works, but it’s not ideal. And oh...Yes you can manage to staple yourself with a staple gun - be careful.

It’s worth noting that I folded each corner differently to see which way would look best. I found that folding it just like a gift without removing extra material wasn’t the best. I also found that removing too much material leaves a “ridge” effect at the corner. So, I guess striking a balance is key.

I have to say though, the look is far better than I had expected. I’ll definitely pursue this deeper.

Today’s bling is a bit more moducation in 2 parts. Provided by MNPCTech and Bill Owen’s how to video on Turbine Style Fans !

Get some popcorn – 30+ minutes of video (but well worth it).