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Complete Guide to Troubleshooting USB Problems

Mark Edward Soper — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:30:00 -0600

The "U" in USB stands for "Universal", and no other I/O port does so much for so many computer users as USB. From providing a home for keyboards and mice to driving printers, scanners, all-in-one units, and providing access to terabytes of storage and the Internet, USB ports do it all. That also means that USB-related problems can cripple your PC, leaving it unable to access storage, input, and output devices.

Tracking down the causes of USB-related woes can be difficult, but in this article, we show you the common and uncommon causes for USB problems – and their solutions.

USB Troubleshooting 101

Recent operating systems include drivers for common USB devices, such as keyboards, mice, and storage devices. If one of these devices is not recognized when you plug it into a USB port, try another USB port on the computer itself (we'll discuss troubleshooting ports built into hubs later), preferably a USB port built into the port cluster on the rear of a desktop PC.

If the device works in some USB ports, but not others, note the ports that are not working. This information will be used to help determine if the cause is the hardware setup at the BIOS level or at the Windows driver or Device Manager level.

If the device works on another PC, but not on yours, the problem lies with your PC. However, if the device doesn't work on any PC, it's time to replace the cable, or the device itself.

Even if you never have a USB device that doesn't work at all, you might see one of the following messages when you plug a USB device into your computer or into an external hub:

"This device can perform faster"

To solve this problem, we need to see how USB ports are configured in the system BIOS – and find out what type of USB hub is in use.

"Hub power exceeded"

This problem, on the other hand, requires a trip to the Windows Device Manager.

Diagnosing USB Port Problems in BIOS Setup

BIOS setup is the place to check if you have any of the following USB problems:

- Your system doesn't recognize a mainstream USB device, such as a printer, mouse, or storage device, in any USB port.

- You get a "This device can perform faster" error message when you plug a Hi-Speed USB (aka USB 2.0) device into any port on a recent computer.

- You can use a USB drive for storage, but you can't boot from it, and you've verified the drive is a bootable device.

- You can use a USB keyboard in Windows, but not for accessing the BIOS at system startup.

To check BIOS settings, restart your computer and press the appropriate key to open the BIOS setup menu.

Tip: If you are unable to access the BIOS setup menu with a USB keyboard, plug in a PS/2 (6-pin DIN) keyboard (if your system has a PS/2 keyboard port). It's worthwhile keeping an old PS/2 keyboard around for troubleshooting. Some USB keyboards can also be adapted to PS/2.

Checking for "Missing" USB Ports in BIOS Setup

Once you have the BIOS settings menu open, what's next? Typically, you will find USB port settings in the Integrated Ports or Integrated Peripherals menu:

If the USB controller or host controller is disabled, no USB ports will be recognized by Windows, and consequently no USB devices will be recognized either.

What if some USB ports are usable, but others are not? Some systems enable you to specify the number of USB ports in BIOS setup.

To solve problems with "missing" USB ports, make sure the following settings are enabled:

USB controller

USB 2.0 controller (aka USB EHCI controller)

USB legacy support

Save changes, exit BIOS setup, and your system will restart, providing access to USB ports.

Tip: If you are unable to use a USB keyboard in BIOS setup, but it works after Windows boots, there's a problem with USB keyboard or legacy support. Change the setting, or contact your system or motherboard vendor for a BIOS update.

Missing USB 2.0 Support

USB 2.0 support has been included in virtually all systems built in the last five years or so. However, it's possible to configure a system so USB 2.0 support is disabled.

On most systems that include USB port options in the system BIOS, you can specify whether to run USB ports in 1.1 or 2.0 (Hi-Speed USB) modes. Depending upon the system, you might see separate entries for USB controller and USB 2.0 controller in BIOS setup, or BIOS setup might have a single entry for USB controller with the option to enable 1.1 support only or 1.1/2.0 support.

Make sure USB 2.0 support is enabled, save changes, exit BIOS setup, and your system will restart, providing USB 2.0 support.

Note: If you have an old system that was never updated to Windows XP SP1 or later, its USB 2.0 ports will run only in USB 1.1 mode, regardless of the BIOS setting, until SP1 or later is installed (SP1 added USB 2.0 support). So, if you're reinstalling Windows XP original edition, make sure you install SP3 immediately, if not sooner (see our article on using the free nLite utility to do this).

Diagnosing USB Power Management Problems

Some systems cannot wake up a system from S3 (deep sleep) power management mode unless this option is enabled in the system BIOS. If you are unable to wake up your system by tapping on a USB keyboard or moving the mouse, make sure this option is enabled in the system BIOS.

Diagnosing USB Problems with Device Manager

If you're still having problems with some USB ports after making sure that the BIOS settings are correct, the next stop for Windows users is Device Manager.

In Device Manager, USB 2.0 controllers are listed as Enhanced, while USB 1.1 are listed as OpenHCD. Note that a single USB 2.0 controller can manage all USB ports built into the motherboard, while each root hub requires its own OpenHCD controller.

Note: If your system does not have USB 2.0 support enabled in the BIOS, an Enhanced controller entry will not appear in Device Manager.

Root Hubs and Generic Hubs

You won't find USB ports listed by that name in Device Manager. Instead, Device Manager lists USB ports by host device:

- Root hub

- Generic hub

Root hubs host USB ports connected to the computer's motherboard or add-on USB host adapter card. A root hub typically hosts two USB ports in 1.1 mode, and the root hub on a system with USB 2.0 support hosts all of the USB ports built into the system. To determine the number of ports a root hub hosts, open a root hub's properties sheet in Device Manager and click the Power tab.

If a root hub is disabled in Device Manager, devices connected to the hub cannot be used and are no longer displayed in Device Manager.

To enable a disabled root hub, right-click the hub and select Enable from the right-click menu. Follow any prompts displayed to complete the process.

Generic hubs are external devices that host USB ports. A generic hub plugs into a USB port, enabling the port to service multiple devices. By daisy-chaining generic hubs to a root hub, a single USB port can support up to 127 devices.

Generic hubs are available in a variety of forms, from standalone devices that include four or more USB ports to keyboards and monitors that include USB ports. Because some generic hubs are self-powered, and some are bus-powered, generic hubs can cause power problems for some USB devices.

Hubs and USB Power Problems

One of the most poorly understood causes of USB problems is the difference between self-powered and bus-powered hubs. Self-powered hubs include root hubs (which draw current from the computer's power supply) and generic hubs that are connected to AC power. These hubs provide 500mA of current to each USB port.

Generic hubs that do not have an AC power source are bus-powered, and provide only 100mA of current to each USB port.

Bus-powered hubs are suitable hosts for USB devices that use little power, such as keyboards, most mice, printers, and external hard disks that use AC power. However, device power requirements vary widely, and other types of popular devices, such as portable hard disks, flash memory drives and card readers, and game controllers with force feedback often cannot operate when plugged into a bus-powered hub.

To determine the power requirements for any USB device, open the Power tab for the root or generic hub the device is plugged into.

The devices shown in this example must be plugged into a self-powered USB hub, as they require more than 100mA of current.

However, the devices shown in this example can be plugged into either a bus-powered or self-powered hub, as they require less than 100mA of current.

Dangers of Exceeding Available Hub Power

If you plug a device that requires more power than the hub can provide, what happens?

If you plug a device that requires more than 100mA of current into a bus-powered hub, you will see a "Hub Power Exceeded" message.

Click the message to see a listing of other ports that you can use.

While the listing isn't specific, keep in mind that any built-in USB port is connected to a root hub, and will therefore provide 500mA of power – enough for almost all devices.

What happens if you plug a device that requires more than 100mA of power into a self-powered hub that becomes disconnected from its AC power supply? At that point, the hub becomes a bus-powered hub, the voltage per port drops to 100mA, and, if you have a flash drive plugged into the port, you might destroy it.

To avoid disaster, consider this advice:

- Think twice before using a bus-powered hub.

- If you use a bus-powered hub, make sure you know the current requirements for all USB devices you plan to use with the hub. Any device that requires more than 100mA of current will not work with a bus-powered hub.

- If you're worried about forgetting to check current requirements before you plug in a new device, use a self-powered hub.

- If you already have a bus-powered hub and are frustrated because some devices will not work with it, replace it or connect the hub to a compatible AC adapter.

Hubs and USB Performance Problems

Most, but not all, USB generic hubs sold today support USB 2.0 speeds – but there are innumerable USB 1.1-only hubs still in use. If you plug a USB 2.0 device into a USB 1.1 hub, you will see the same "This device can perform faster" error message you would see if you had plugged the device into a USB 1.1 port on the computer.

How can you tell how fast a USB hub will run? There are two methods I use:

- Check for markings on the hub

- Check the properties sheet for the hub

Most USB 2.0 hubs are labeled as such. However, an unlabeled hub might also support USB 2.0 speeds.

To determine the speeds supported by a USB hub, follow this procedure:

1. Plug a USB 2.0 device, such as a storage device or wireless adapter, into one of the ports on the hub.

2. Open Device Manager.

3. Expand the Universal Serial Bus Controllers category.

4. Open the properties sheet for the hub.

5. Open the Power tab and look for the device you connected in Step 1.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 until you find the correct hub.

7. Open the Advanced tab and note the hub's performance level. A hub that supports USB 2.0 speeds will run at high-speed. A hub that supports only USB 1.1 speeds will run at full-speed.

Note that some desktops with front-mounted USB ports run these ports in USB 1.1 mode only.

USB Hub and Device Power Management Problems and Solutions

By default, USB root and generic hubs are configured to enable the PC to turn off the device automatically to save power. However, USB devices are configured by default to enable the device to wake up the system.

If your system cannot be awakened from standby, check these settings, as well as the power management settings in the system BIOS.

Cables and USB Device Compatibility

USB cables not made for high-power (over 100mA) devices can cause those devices to fail. Typically, thicker cables (such as the white cable shown below) use 28AWG cable, which is capable of carrying full power to any USB device, while thinner cables (such as the gray one shown below) use thinner cable of unspecified gauge. Smaller-gauge cable prevents full power transmission to the device.

While using an underperforming USB cable won't cause the device to be damaged, it can be frustrating to need an extension or other cable doesn't work with some devices.

The second factor is the rise of alternative device cable connections. At one time, virtually all USB devices, with the exception of digital cameras, used the standard B cable connector. With most current devices, except for printers, the standard B connector has been replaced by the five-pin mini-B cable. And, some devices use four-pin mini-B cables or Mini-A cables. To be prepared for any eventuality, consider keeping a universal USB 2.0 cable handy (like the one in the photo below).

The third factor is the need to exceed 500mA at startup with some portable USB hard disk drives. Some onboard USB ports are capable of proving more current to spin up these drives, while others are not. Keep in mind that self-powered generic hubs typically cannot provide additional power for these drives.

If you cannot use a single USB cable to provide sufficient power with some systems, use a double-headed cable. One connector provides power and data services from a single USB port, while the other provides additional power from a second USB port. Some portable hard disk vendors supply this type of cable, while others make it an extra-cost option.

USB Driver Problems and Solutions

Because recent versions of Windows recognize standard USB devices such as mice, keyboards, and storage devices without the need to install drivers, it's easy to forget that a plug-and-play installation is possible only when the computer has the appropriate driver already installed.

If you plug a USB device into a computer that does not already have the appropriate drivers installed, you will be prompted to run the Found New Hardware Wizard.

Continue only if the installation instructions for the device recommend doing so. In most cases, however, you need to run the device installation program provided on the device's driver CD before Windows can install the device. In such cases, click Cancel, disconnect the device, and install the driver for the device first.

Once the device is installed, you might be able to update the drivers with the device's Driver tab on the properties sheet in Device Manager.

Conclusion

Want to avoid having USB problems at all? Here are some best practices that you should follow to get your ports in order.

- Make sure your computer is configured to run USB ports in USB 2.0 mode

- Upgrade systems running original Windows XP to SP1 or greater

- Avoid using bus-powered USB hubs with most bus-powered peripherals other than mice, keyboards, and some types of game controllers

- Avoid using USB 1.1-compatible hubs with USB 2.0 devices such as storage, printer, scanner, and multifunction devices

- Use the Device Manager properties sheets for USB ports and devices to solve problems

- Make sure you install driver software for new USB devices before you connect them to your system

- Replace USB cables not designed for high-powered devices with thicker USB 2.0-compliant cables

- Check power management settings in BIOS and Device Manager for USB ports and devices

Mark Edward Soper is the co-author of the new book CompTIA A+ 220-701 220-702 Cert Guide, with Scott Mueller and David L. Prowse (Pearson).

Karmic Koala Causes Anger and Frustration amongst Early Adopters

Pulkit Chandna — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:56:09 -0600

Exactly a week after the much anticipated launch of Windows 7, Canonical rolled out Ubuntu 9.10 (Karmic Koala). Although it may not have been as keenly awaited as Windows 7, Karmic Koala's launch was special for a particular demographic that romances Linux, and especially its subset that dotes on Ubuntu. But early adopters of the latest Ubuntu release are having a torrid time.

Excited users have been rewarded with a plethora of problems in exchange of their bravura and enthusiasm. Karmic Koala's poor handling of graphics drivers - blank and flickering screens are quite common - and its failure to install the latest 2.6.31 Linux kernel figure prominently on the list of flaws. Also, the latest version of Ubuntu is not too good at spotting hard drives, according to initial reports.

According to a poll on Ubuntuforums.org, more than one-third of about 1,500 people polled so far have encountered some major flaws. Users upgrading to 9.10 are experiencing more issues than those opting for a fresh install.

Image Credit: EeePc.Itrunslinux.com

Linux Troubleshooting Guide: Fix the Most Common Problems

Will Kraft — Wed, 10 Jun 2009 10:00:00 -0500

Troubleshooting has always been one of the most frustrating aspects of computer ownership. Due to the practically infinite number of potential problems, it would be utterly impossible to write a how-to guide to fix all of them, but in this article we are going to address some of the most common problems and then present more generalized guidelines that will help you troubleshoot your own problems in an emergency.

Repair the GUI System

One of the most common problems in Linux is a broken GUI configuration. The X Windowing System (Xorg) is the most common GUI system in use on Linux systems today. Unlike the Windows GUI, (which is practically inextricable from the rest of the operating system) Xorg is simply a program that runs on top of the base Linux system. Because of this, it can be easily repaired.

The X Windowing System uses a file called xorg.conf to maintain the GUI configuration. It contains information about your graphics hardware, the driver it uses, (in the case of NVIDIA or ATI devices) your available screen resolutions, and even settings for your input devices. The best way to avoid any problem is prevention, so you should always have at least one backup copy of important files like xorg.conf and be sure to save a copy of the current working version each you make any modifications to it.

Don't panic if the worst happens and you find yourself without a working xorg.conf. The base system is probably still operational and it is possible to carry on without the GUI, although some distros might complain a bit if Xorg refuses to start. Many modern distros (like Mandriva, Ubuntu, and others) have a safe mode or recovery mode that provides a root-level command prompt. From there, you have access to the bash-friendly utilities and tools that are essential to fix your system. Even better than that, your distro probably has a special tool which can repair or completely regenerate xorg.conf.

During our test where we deliberately deleted xorg.conf, Ubuntu 9.04's GUI continued to work, much to our amazement. (we rebooted several times to make sure it was not a glitch) If that is not the case for you, Ubuntu's Recovery Mode has an automated tool called xfix that will try to rebuild xorg.conf without any additional interaction. Once xfix has worked, you will have the option of resuming normal boot. This tool worked perfectly for us on the first try by replacing the xorg.conf file that we erased from our test machine.

For Mandriva, boot into “Safe mode” and run “Xfdrake”.This tool will walk you through the process of rebuilding xorg.conf in a step-by-step interface where you are able to select configuration options from a list. With some knowledge of your hardware and a little luck, this should get you running again.

Reinstall GRUB

Many Linux users have dual-boot systems, and this works very well for the most part. Since the Windows bootloader is not very friendly to non-Microsoft operating systems, most distros use a different bootloader called GRUB (Grand Unified Bootloader) that is capable of working with multiple operating systems, including Windows.

Since Windows installations tend to degrade over time, (a phenomenon known as “Windows Rot”) it is inevitable that you must reinstall Windows at some point. If you are using GRUB or a different bootloader, your other operating systems will be inaccessible (but still intact) after a Windows reinstall since the Windows setup process will replace the bootloader without asking you. Although it is possible to reinstall GRUB manually (often through a Live CD distro) there is a tool called Super GRUB that can make the process much easier.

Super GRUB is an extension of the regular GRUB bootloader. It comes as an ISO image which may be burned to a CD or placed on a USB stick. (an ideal use for any old low-capacity USB flash drives you may still have) Although it is absolutely tiny by today's standards (weighing in at a little over 4 MB) Super GRUB works like a miniature operating system with several pre-defined tools that can handle many boot-related processes. Super GRUB can automatically find your operating system partitions and use this data to reinstall and configure conventional GRUB. Super GRUB can even even do the exact opposite: remove conventional GRUB and restore the normal Windows bootloader.

To use Super GRUB, download and prepare the ISO image for the media format you want to use. Once you have done that, reboot the computer with the Super GRUB disc or USB stick. You will be greeted with a conventional GRUB boot menu with the Super GRUB option on it. You will soon see the Super GRUB main menu. To attempt automated repair, run the “GRUB => MBR & !Linux! (1) Auto ;-) “ option. If that fails, you have the option of repairing GRUB manually. Our only criticism of Super GRUB is that its menus can be rather hard to understand, but it works very well in spite of that.

Get Wireless Working on Linux

If you're lucky, your wireless device will work out of the box on Linux. Some devices from certain manufacturers (like Atheros) are very Linux-friendly. Unfortunately, some of these components are used in products under different brand names, so it can be difficult to know what parts any given device has in it without doing extensive research. Even if your wireless device is not one of the most Linux-friendly out there, it may be possible to get it working.

Some devices require additional firmware to work. The firmware is what makes the wireless device work at all; without it, a device is little more than a series of interconnected parts with no real guidelines that allow it to function. In the old days, firmware was usually built into a device; these days, it is more common to see software-driven firmware. One of the most notable examples of this is Broadcom, which at the time of this writing has made no real efforts to accommodate Linux users and does not seem to be interested in doing so. Broadcom devices are common in many notebook models from a variety of manufacturers. Fortunately, the B43 Project has reverse-engineered a method to extract the necessary firmware as “binary blobs” from the Windows drivers and then use this firmware to activate the wireless device in Linux.

Once the firmware is in place, the device is able to interact with any operating system that has the right drivers. The Linux kernel has built-in support for Broadcom, but this is useless without the firmware. Ubuntu features restricted drivers that contain the necessary firmware while other distro users are able to obtain the firmware themselves with the “firmware-cutter” tool. Firmware should always be placed in /lib/firmware. A reboot is often required to activate it. If you have a Broadcom card, you should try this method first.

Sometimes, the only real option is to run the Windows driver under Linux with a tool called NDISwrapper. This is essentially a kludge that implements some parts of the Windows environment just enough for Windows wireless drivers to function. It is possible to work with NDISwrapper through the command line interface or through a GTK-based frontend. Some distros that provide centralized control centers have built-in tools to use NDISwrapper. (For Ubuntu, install the “ndisgtk” package.) In any case, NDISwrapper will need the .inf file along with the actual driver for any device you want to enable. Keep in mind that NDISwrapper requires drivers that match the architecture of the host system; if the Linux host system is 64 bit, the Windows drivers you use must also be 64-bit.

Troubleshooting through Deductive Reasoning

The ability to solve a problem through deductive reasoning is a valuable skill since it can be applied to any operating system (not just Linux) in virtually any situation, provided that enough information is available to figure out the problem. This part of our guide uses the standard scientific method to diagnose and repair computer problems: formation of a hypothesis, experimentation, and observation of the end result. Our goal with this technique is to help you learn how to think both creatively and logically when it comes to solving problems, since not every problem out there has a step-by-step procedure to help you solve it.

Before you Start

There are several qualifications that you must have before being able to troubleshoot effectively, which is why we recommend this technique for more advanced users. Unless you meet these prerequisites to some extent, you are probably not going to get very far in your efforts.

First, you must have the patience and willingness to fix the problem. Although your time is better spent doing other things, it is beneficial to learn how to fix your own problems since it makes you more self-sufficient in addition to saving money. Furthermore, you can't always assume that someone will be there to help you with your computer problems in an emergency.

Next, you should have a fairly good understanding of your computer's software and hardware. Although you don't have to understand everything there is to know about how it all fits together, you should at least be able to identify hardware like graphics cards, RAM, hard drives, etc. and be familiar with the inner workings of your operating system. For Linux, you should know your way around the directory structure and the terminal in addition to the most important configuration/log files. For Windows, you should know the directory structure and have a nominal to deep understanding of device drivers and the registry.

Last, you should be willing to experiment. Many new users are afraid to enter unfamiliar territory because they think they will only end up making the situation worse. It is important that you get over that fear if you have it; any problems you are experiencing will only persist or get worse if you ignore them. If something is already broken, your repair efforts are not likely to make it worse than it already is if the proper measures (like recording any changes you make) are taken.

Understand the Nature of Problem

Before you can solve a problem, you must be aware of what the problem is. Although this sounds ridiculously simple, it is often easier said than done. The key is to understand the nature of a problem in a comprehensive sense rather than abstractly. Fortunately, there are always clues which can help you achieve this level of understanding. These clues are the symptoms of the underlying problem, and they are your main guide. Ultimately, you must look at each problem in a forensic or diagnostic sense like a physician or a detective. When you encounter a problem, try to apply the following questions to it and then answer them:

What is the specific problem?
Why am I seeing this problem?
What has changed in the time between now and when everything last worked perfectly?
How is this problem manifested?
What are the symptoms?
What is the extent of the problem?
Under what conditions does the problem appear?

You must first identify what the specific problem is. On the surface, this sounds trivial and even self-evident, but there is often more to it than reading an error message. Error messages are often less than ideal at describing the particular problem they are supposed to address, so you must learn to look past them and identify what has really happened.

Ideally, you should try to understand the problem as specifically as possible; instead of saying “Program A doesn't work”, you should think of it as “Program A produces Result B when I try to perform Task C under Condition D”. Once you are able to accurately fill in the variables, you will have a more concrete understanding of the situation than if you try to deal with the problem more abstractly. Googling this concise description of the problem once you have it figured out often yields results that may help you fix the problem or may even offer a solution outright. Try to think of the reasons as to why you are seeing a particular error message, and then form a hypothesis based on that assumption.

When forming your hypothesis, you must take into account any changes that have been made to the system. Quite often, problems arise due to a change in the system rather than for unrelated reasons. As a result, any system changes should play a central role in your hypothesis. In this instance, the system logs would likely hold useful information, so that would be a good place to start looking.

Next, you must understand how the problem is manifested. The best place to start is with the symptoms of the problem. You must ask yourself what the symptoms are trying to tell you; is there something wrong with the hardware, or is it a software problem? How is this problem being shown, and does the situation fit with your assumptions? This is the reason why knowing about your hardware and software is a prerequisite to troubleshooting, since deductive reasoning relies on your ability to discard a hypothesis if it turns out to be unlikely or even impossible when weighed against what you know to be true.

A good hypothesis stands up when weighed against the evidence. It is important to answer all the questions listed above when forming your hypothesis, since you need as much observation data as possible to fine-tune the hypothesis. Failure to do so results in a bad hypothesis. For example, if you believe that a problem must be hardware-based because it happens consistently at a certain time, your hypothesis is far from sound. You may be right in that particular instance, but it is difficult to approach the problem with any certainty since you failed to take other factors into account. To see whether your hypotheses are true, you must be prepared to test them.

Problems must often be addressed in a specific order. For example, you may have to fix something separate yet related to the main problem before you are able to attack the main problem itself. Based on your observations and your prerequisite knowledge of how your computer operates, you must decide what to focus on first and where to go on from there until everything is fixed. Your hypothesis plus your planned repair method becomes your strategy for fixing the problem.

Experiment to solve the problem

Quite often, the key to solving a problem is a process of elimination in which one strategy after another is tested and then discarded or revised until the correct solution is found. Keep in mind that there may be more than one way to fix a problem, and the least risky methods should be attempted first. It is possible that testing may reveal more clues that were not present before, and you should definitely take these into account and revise your hypotheses and strategies accordingly.

Another thing you must consider is whether you have seen this problem before in another situation. No two separate problems are exactly alike, but comparing the present situation to a past experience may grant you additional insight as to what is going on. Try to focus on similarities and differences between this situation and previous ones; the more factors you are able to correlate or eliminate, the better. After doing that, you should try to remember what you did to solve the previous problem(s) and then try to find out if the same solution can be applicable to your current problem. If this tactic is successful, you could be well on your way to solving the problem. If not, you have uncovered more clues that you can use to help understand the situation further. For example, if a previous solution will not work on the current problem even though it may be similar, try to understand why. Ask the following questions and try to answer them:

1. How does this situation differ from the previous one?
2. How is this situation similar to the previous one?
3. What happens when the previous solution is applied to this problem?
4. What does the answer to question #3 tell me?

At this stage, it is critical that you document each repair attempt before you do it. Take note of any change you make, and make a note of the previous setting. If you change a registry value or edit a configuration file, you should make a note of how it was before. Many configuration files allow lines to be commented out; it is generally a good idea to use the commenting system to make notes of how the file used to be whenever you change a setting. If you replace files, make a copy of the original file before you replace it. That way, if your repair strategy backfires, you will be able to go back to the previous configuration and try something else without having made the problem irrevocably worse.

To be effective, you should also document the results of each experiment so you will be able to go back and remember what worked and what didn't. Your experimentation attempts will allow you to pinpoint or eliminate specific factors as the cause of the underlying problem. This works on the principle that if you eliminate all the wrong possibilities, you will eventually arrive at the correct solution.

Know When to Stop

Although you can solve many computer problems through deductive reasoning, there are still limits to what it can accomplish. Some computer problems are beyond any degree of troubleshooting, since it is often impossible to know whether or not the problem has been completely fixed. In such cases, your only real strategy is to recover what data you can and start over with a clean operating system installation.

You have to know when to stop working on a problem or your attempts will become counter-productive. You can spend hours on a single problem, but if you make no real progress, you are just wasting your time. Also, you must know if your attempts are effective. If your repair attempts are causing more problems, it is time to stop since you will never be able to fix all of them.

Blue Screen of Death Survival Guide: Every Error Explained

Paul Lilly — Fri, 01 May 2009 11:30:00 -0500

Picture this: It’s late at night, you’re sitting at your computer playing a game or working on a project when, suddenly, Windows freezes completely. All your work is gone, and you find a blue screen full of gibberish staring back at you. Windows is dead, Jim, at least until you reboot it. You have no choice but to sigh loudly, shake your fist at Bill Gates and angrily push the reset button. You’ve just been visited by the ghost of windows crashed: the Blue Screen of Death.

Also known as the BSoD, the Blue Screen of Death appears when Windows crashes or locks up. It’s actually a Windows “stop” screen, and is designed to do two things: tell you the reason for the error, and to calm your nerves, hence the use of the color blue (studies show it has a relaxing effect on people). Though Blue Screens are difficult to decipher, all the information you need to figure out what caused it is right there in front of you in blue and white—and that’s where we come in. We’re going to show you how to dissect the blue screen error details, so you can fix the problem that’s causing them.

BSoD 101: A Crash Course

Error Name

There are many parts to a BSOD, but the most important is right at the top. The actual name of the error is presented in all caps with an underscore between each word. In some cases this will be all that’s needed to get to the root of the problem (thanks to the handy guide you are about to read). Most of the time, however, more information will be required.

Troubleshooting Advice

Nearly every BSOD includes a portion of text with some basic troubleshooting advice, the first of which recommends restarting your computer. Gee, thanks for the tip Microsoft. Before you restart, copy the exact all-caps error code and hexadecimal values shown above and below this portion of generic text. The next paragraph provides sound advice, alerting the user to check to make sure their hardware is installed properly, or to undo any recent software or hardware upgrades.

Memory Dump

Every BSOD is accompanied by a memory dump. What this means is when Windows crashes, it dumps whatever it is holding in system memory to a file, and saves the file on your hard drive for debugging purposes. If you contact Microsoft for technical assistance, they’ll want to know the contents of this file.

Stop Code

The “technical information” section portion contains the actual Windows stop code, in oh-so-easy-to-read hexadecimal form. Despite appearing unintelligible at first glance, this combination of numbers and letters is instrumental in determining the cause of the crash. Pay particular attention to the first set of numbers and letters. It precedes the other four, which are enclosed in parenthesis. If a specific driver is associated with the crash, it will be listed on the very next line.

I Run Vista, so I'm Immune to BSODs, Right?

Unfortunately, no. A common misconception is that blue screens don't even exist in Vista, but not only are they still there, but we're here to tell you we've seen them first hand. The good news is Microsoft put a lot of work into how Vista handles critical errors and other glitches that in previous OSes would cause a system crash. Most of the time, if a problem occurs, Vista will attempt to fix the problem without any interruption. For example, if your videocard crashes, you may see a messge saying "Display driver stopped responding and has recovered." In XP and previous OSes, this almost always would have resulted in a system crash.

In some cases, Vista will be unable recover on its own, and the result is a blue screen. By default, Vista will reboot itself after briefly flashing the blue screen. It happens so fast you might miss it, but once Windows reloads, you'll be greeted with an error message similar to the above. You can try clicking the 'Check for solution' button, just as you can try your hand playing the lotto. Neither one is likely to result in anything.

Instead, scroll down and take note of the blue screen codes. Armed with this information, you can perform your own detective work. Alternately, if you'd prefer to see the actual blue screen rather than automatically rebooting, right-click the My Computer icon on your desktop, select Properties, and click on Advanced System Settings. In the System Properties window that appears, select the Advanced tab, click Settings under Startup and Recovery, and uncheck the box that says 'Automatically Restart.' The same steps also apply to XP.

In another nod towards streamlining the troubleshooting process, Vista's Problem Reports and Solutions wizard can save you oodles of time in PC detective work, and may even alert you to potential conflicts you weren't even aware existed. You can find this applet by name in your Control Panel, or just type Problem Reports and Solutions in Vista's search box. Once loaded, click 'Check for new solutions' in the left-hand column. If Vista finds any conflicts, it will list them in the main window, along with any potential resolutions.

IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (0x0000000A)

The most common cause of this conflict is improperly installed drivers for a piece of hardware you recently installed. For example, if you’ve installed a webcam two weeks ago, and have been getting BSoDs ever since, start your investigation with the webcam. First, disconnect the hardware, and uninstall the drivers for it completely. If that fixes the blue screen, you can search for updated drivers or contact the manufacturer.

If you haven't installed any new drivers recently, you'll need to do some more detective work. Start by examining the blue screen to see if it lists a specific driver. Looking at the blue screen, check the text at the very bottom of the screen. You'll probably see a file name. This is the driver that caused the problem. If, for example, the driver in question is named nv4_disp.dll (an nVidia-related file), and you've recently switched from an Nvidia videocard to an ATI part, then it's reasonable to assume that either the old driver was not uninstalled correctly, or the new drivers weren't properly installed.

Swapping Videocards

If you've narrowed your search of offending drivers down to those associated with your videocard, turn off the system, disconnect the power, and remove and reseat the videocard. Next, go into the BIOS (press F2 or Delete when your BIOS prompts you to do this, or consult your user manual or motherboard manufacturer's website) and check the bus speed for your videocard. We typically recommend leaving the PCI-E frequency set to Auto in the BIOS, but if you've overclocked your system, it can inadvertently knock the bus speed beyond a stable spec, which can cause blue screens. If that's the case, manually set your PCI-E frequency to 100MHz.

You're more like to experience this IRQL error when switching form one videocard brand to another, as the drivers will conflict with each other. The safe way to swap videocards is to completely remove all remnants of your old videocard drivers using a utility called Driver Cleaner, or the freebie alternative Driver Sweeper. To begin the process, open up your Control Panel, select Add or Remove Programs in XP or Programs and Features in Vista, highlight the videocard drivers, and click Uninstall. Reboot the computer, holding down the F8 key to enter safe mode. Run the Driver Cleaner utility to scrub away any remnants of the previous drivers that a typical uninstall overlooks. After you reboot, install the appropriate drivers for your new videocard.

Some Sound Advice

When the error is related to an audio driver, take note of the program that was running when the BSoD occurred. Make sure the offending application's sound options are configured correctly -- it's especially important that it uses the correct audio device -- and download any patches available that address known issues. You should update your soundcard's drivers as well.

If you're using an add-in soundcard, verify that the motherboard's onboard audio is disabled in the BIOS, so the two audio drivers don't conflict with each other.

Change Doctors

System services known to cause this error include virus scanners and backup utilities. We've had good luck sticking with the major players, such as AVG, Norton, Kaspersky, AntiVir, and Nod32 for our antivirus scanning, and Norton Ghost and Acronis TrueImage for backup duties. Do not run more than one antivirus application on your computer at the same time!

DATA_BUS_ERROR (0x0000002E)

This is one of the easier BSoDs to diagnose, as faulty memory sticks are almost always to blame. If you get this error, think for a second: Are those DIMMs you just added compatible with your motherboard? Your motherboard manufacturer's website will have a list of specific brands verified to work with your particular board, although these are often incomplete.

(Image Credit: Corsair)

Next, are they installed in the correct slots? Some motherboards are more finicky than others when it comes to proper slot placement, and the situation is compounded when dealing with a dual- or tri-channel board. Most motherboards that run dual-channel require that you install matching sets of RAM in the same-color slots, while others, such as some MSI boards, require that you install them in alternate slots. And if you have a Core i7 setup, you may need to install your RAM starting with the slot farthest from the CPU. When in doubt, RTFM.

Once you've verified that your RAM is installed correctly and is compatible with your motherboard, check to make sure they're running within spec. It's possible you may have set your memory's latency timings too aggressive, or maybe the sticks can't handle the frequency you're trying to run them at. Your BIOS could also mis-read the SPD settings. Whatever the case, look up the correct parameters for your RAM and try manually setting them in the BIOS.

(Image Credit: pplware.com)

If the problem persists, the the problem is likely a bad stick. To find out which stick is bad you can simply remove one stick, then run your system for a while to see if the blue screens stop. Then swap the sticks and run your test again. If the machine blue screens with one stick, but not the other, you've found your culprit. You can also run a diagnostic program such as Memtest86+ to help determine which stick is defective. If you're running Vista, you can also use Microsoft's Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool. Type the name of the program in Vista's search box, and once selected, it will run the next time you reboot. Because most RAM sold today includes a lifetime warranty, be sure to check with your vendor before you toss out a bad stick.

NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM or FAT_FILE_SYSTEM (0x00000024 or 0x00000023)

While many blue screens can be traced back to a new hardware install or bad memory, this particular error screams in capital letters that something is fishy with your hard drive. The error that gets displayed depends on the file system your OS is using. In most cases, the file system will be NTFS. With really old systems, the error will read FAT16. If you get this error, be sure to do one thing immediately, before you even being to contemplate its cause: Back up your important data.

Call the Cable Guy

(Image Credit: Tomshardware)

The easiest solutions are often the most overclocked, but they can also be the most effective. Checking your hard drive's cable connections falls into this category. SATA cables are notorious for working themselves loose --we've had this happen to us on many occasions. If using a SATA drive, make sure you have only one power cable connected, not two (many SATA hard drives include a SATA power cable and a legacy four-pin connector). With a PATA drive, remove the ribbon cable and look for any bent or broken pins. Carefully line up the cable and push it securely into place. You might also have a bad cable, so if you have a space cable lying around -- one you know to be good -- swap it with the one in your PC.

Check Please!

Now it's time to check your drive for errors. To do this, we'll first run a diagnostic scan. In XP, click Start, then Run, and type cmd. In Vista, simply type cmd in the Start Search box, then right-click cmd.exe and select Run as Administrator.. At the flashing command prompt, type chkdsk /f /r and reboot the system if prompted. The /f and /r switches attempt to fix file-system errors, then look for an mark any bad sectors before automatically rebooting when the scan completes.

Change Drivers

Even though we don't really think about hard drives as needing drivers, the controller's they're attached to most certainly do. A buggy SATA controller driver can wreak havoc on your data. Your motherboard's chipset drivers include specific drivers for the IDE/ATA controller tha the hard drives are connect to, so you'll need to install the latest version for your motherboard. To find your chipset drivers, you'll need to go to your motherboard manufacturer's website and search the support section, or head directly to your chipset manufacturer's website.

UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP (0x0000007F)

If you see this blue screen, you're probably overclocking your CPU, but this is not always the case. The 7F error is known to attack indiscriminately, lashing out at more than just overclockers. This particular BSoD can rear its head in response to bad RAM, a faulty motherboard, or a corrupted BIOS.

Overzealous Overclocking

If you've overclocked, the first thing you should do to isolate the problem (or any problem, for that matter) is to revert your overclocked components to their default speeds. If the blue screen goes away, then your overclock was too aggressive. The best way to ensure that your overclock is stable is to stress the hell out of your PC. To do this, many enthusiasts turn to the torture test named Prime95. This utility stressed your rig's CPU and memory subsystems. If any errors are found, it's a good indication that your system is not completely stable.

Hot Potato!

This BSoD could also be generated by an overheating PC, so it's a good practice to monitor your system temps on a regular basis. There are several temp monitoring programs available, such as Core Temp, Real Temp, SpeedFan, and many others.

As far as temperatures go, most CPUs can get very hot without incurring any damage. Temperatures of 75C under load aren't unheard of for hot-running CPUs, though most newer chips probably won't get as high. In general, it's a good idea to keep your CPU below 70C, and below 50C at idle. This will vary by processor make, model, and even steppings (revisions) of the same chip.

If a processor is running hot, examine your case's airflow and see if there are any obstructions. Check your fans for dust buildup, including the top of the heatsink that's cooling your CPU. A high-quality cooler will also bring temperatures down. And you should always have some sort of thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler. Finally, verify that all fans are spinning. If the fan is plugged in and still not spinning, replace the defective fan immediately.

The BIOS Beckons

If your BIOS is corrupt or has trouble with a new component, such as newly released processor core, your first order of business is to update to the latest version. Before updating the BIOS, you should change its settings back to default (there is usually a "reset to default" setting in the BIOS that makes this process easy, or you can simply clear the CMOS via the jumper on your motherboard). You should never attempt to update your BIOS on a system that is overclocked and unstable. A sudden reboot in the middle of the BIOS-flashing process will destroy your motherboard, turning it into a fancy doorstop. And remember: Never, under any circumstances, restart or shut down the system while you're flashing yoru BIOS. You can download the latest BIOS from your motherboard manufacturer's website.

When there are several different versions to choose from, skip right to the latest release rather than updating incrementally. Some motherboard vendors include utilities for updating the BIOS from within Windows. This makes the process easy enough for even novices to undertake, but for obvious reasons, we recommend avoiding this route when a system is prone to blue screens.

Mating Memory

Mismatched or bad memory sticks can also cause this blue screen. To scratch this one off of the troubleshooting list, run a single stick of RAM that Memtest86 has verified to be error free. If this solves the problem, replace the bad stick. If not, move on to the next step.

CPU is Kaput

We don't see this often, but another known cause for this particular error is a bad processor. Most people don't have the means to test the CPU in another system, so your options here may be limited. Local computer repair shops are sometimes willing to run the processor for a night or two for a nominal cost, but you can also contact AMD or Intel for a replacement if it's within the warranty period.

Other Notable BSoDs

PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA

Faulty hardware, including RAM (system, video, or L2 cache).

INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE

Caused by improperly configured jumpers on PATA hard drives, a boot sector virus, or incorrect IDE controller drives, which can also occur when installing the wrong chipset drivers.

VIDEO_DRIVER_INIT_FAILURE

Caused by installing the wrong drivers for a videocard or rebooting before driver installation could complete.

BAD_POOL_CALLER

Caused by a faulty or incompatible hardware driver, particularly when upgrading Windows XP instead of performing a clean install.

PFN_LIST_CORRUPT

Caused by faulty RAM.

MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION

A bad CPU -- or one that is too aggressively overclocked, or an underpowered or faluty power supply.

An End Run Around the BSoD

Reading blue screens of death is fun and all, but there's another, easier way to discover what your PC's problem is: the Event Viewer. When an error occurs in Windows, the OS adds a note to the system's log files. These logs are accessible through Windows's Event Viewer, and they contain all the information we need to know what ails our poor computer.

In XP, go the Start menu and open the Control Panel. Click Administrative Tools, then double-click the Event Viewer icon. Altternately, select Run from the Start menu and type eventvwr.msc, which will bring you right into the Event Viewer. In Vista, just type Event Viewer in the Start Search box.

On the left-hand pane, highlight the applicaton or system icon (under Windows Logs in Vista). On the right-hand pane, you'll see up to three different events labled Information, Warning, and Error. These are sorted by the time in which they occured. Scroll to the approximate time of the last system restart and double-click the events.

This brings up a Properties window detailing information that should clue you in on any problem. For example, if one of the events contains a bugcheck message with 0x0000002E, we know this is a DATA_BUS_ERROR, and is usually indicative of faulty RAM. On the other hand, there might be several events pointing to a specific driver, such as nv4_disp.dll. This tells us we should focus on the videocard and any recent changes related to the display hardware.

Armed with this information, we're ready to beging the troubleshooting steps outlined previously. If typing the event ID into Google and Microsoft's Knowledge Base (http://support.microsoft.com) doesn't help, head over to www.eventid.net. This site contains a repository of comments and errors from other users, as well as the steps they took to alleviate their problems.

We recommend you familiarize yourself with the event viewer, even if your system is healthy. Rooting out minor problems before they progress will ensure your Windows install keeps humming along uneventfully.

How-To: Give Your Laptop a Clean Start

Alex Castle — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:30:00 -0500

>> Click Here to Learn How to Decrapyify Your Laptop

>> Click Here to Learn How to Give Your Desktop a Clean Start!

Back in February, we brought you an article called Give Windows a Clean Start, which explained all the details about how to properly perform a system-cleansing reformat, without losing your valuable data. It covered important steps like salvaging product keys, deactivating apps, prepping iTunes and making backups. The original article was written for desktop PCs, and although nearly all of the techniques also work for laptops, we thought a supplement about how to install laptop drivers on a fresh Windows install as called for.

Sure, almost all laptops come with recovery discs or recovery partions, so a full reformat is rarely absolutely necessary, but there are a number of reasons you might want to do it:

1. You want the cleanest of clean—not even a thorough decrapifying is enough for you.

2. You want to reformat and upgrade or downgrade to Vista or XP.

3. You’ve managed to truly, thoroughly hose your laptop beyond all recognition, and you lost your restore disc.

If one of the above applies to you and you have a retail Windows install disc, then give your laptop a clean start!. First, check out the original article for advice about saving your data, then read on to learn what software you'll need to install after your reformat.

Service Packs

Before you begin, install the service pack(s) for your version of Windows. These correct major security vulnerabilities and will go a long way toward keeping your computer from being compromised when you connect it to the internet. Modern routers have built-in firewalls that do a pretty good job of keeping your computer safe, but for the sake of prudence we recommend that you download the service pack installer (available for XP and Vista) then transfer it to your new computer using a thumb drive.

Drivers

With more specialized hardware, laptops are even more reliant on having the right drivers than their desktop brethren. With a desktop, finding the right drivers is a pretty simple matter. Want drivers for video card? Just swing by the AMD or NVIDIA support page and pick up the latest package. Sound card? Same. Peripherals like mice and webcams? They usually come packaged with the product itself, and even if they don’t you can almost always find them on the manufacturers webpage.

Things get a bit stickier on a laptop, though. Because everything is integrated—graphics, sound, peripherals—you need special drivers, designed for your laptop. So step number one has to be collecting the drivers you’ll need.

Fortunately, this is actually pretty easy. The only trick is that instead of going to the manufacturer for any of the individual components of your laptop, you want to go straight to the Laptop OEM’s site. They’ll almost always have a page where you can select your model and download drivers. For your convenience, here are links to the support pages of some major laptop makers:

Dell

Sony

Toshiba

Gateway

There’s a problem, though… Rather than describe it in words, we’ll just post this picture:

Yeah—that’s a hell of a lot of drivers. Thankfully, you don’t need all of them. Below, we’ll categorize which drivers you’ll need and (roughly) in what order you’ll want to install them.

1. Chipset

Generally speaking, the order you install your drivers in doesn’t matter a ton; this numbered list is more of a checklist to make sure you get everything done. However, it is a very good idea to install the chipset drivers, which control the motherboard, first. They’re the most likely to cause problems if installed out of order.

2. Network

Assuming you want your notebook to be able to connect to the internet, you’re going to want to install network drivers. The most important is the LAN driver. This controls your laptop’s integrated NIC, allowing you to use your Ethernet ports. You should also install the Wireless LAN driver, if you want to use Wi-Fi. If you’re still stuck in the stone age, on a dial-up connection, you’ll want to install the modem driver instead. Once you’ve installed network drivers, you can turn Windows Update on and let it download the latest patches and security fixes for Windows.

3. Adapters

Next, install the drivers for the laptop’s integrated video and audio. If you’re used to working with a desktop, your first instincts will be to go to the AMD, NVIDIA or SoundBlaster websites, but fight the urge: you want the specialized drivers available on the laptop manufacturer’s website.

4. Peripherals

With drivers for the laptop’s guts set up, move on to the peripherals. Of course, these depend on your laptop’s exact loadout, but generally you’ll be looking for trackpad, webcam, microphone, and Bluetooth drivers. If your laptop came with any readers (i.e. SD cards, smartcards, fingerprint) you need the drivers for those, as well.

So download all of the drivers that you need, according to the above list, drop them on a USB key, and then run them on your fresh Windows install.Your laptop should be in the best shape of it's life!

Now that you're finished with the drivers, you can use what you learned from the original article to restore your old data and applications.Good luck!

Ask the Doctor: Oh Say Can You C:

The Maximum PC Staff — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:19:09 -0500

I’m having trouble formatting my C: drive. When I right-click my drive and try to format it, I get an error telling me that it can’t format when other applications are running. I’ve uninstalled everything that I could and it still won’t let me format. Is my hard drive shot or just corrupt? I don’t have my restore disc.

—K. Payne

Your hard drive is probably neither shot nor corrupt. Formatting overwrites all the data on a disc (or more accurately, erases its headers so it can be written over). If you format your C: drive, the one Windows is installed on, you’ll lose everything on it, including Windows. Windows cannot delete itself while Windows itself is running; you should format from a bootable disc—either a Linux LiveCD, like Knoppix or Ubuntu Live, or a Windows Preloaded Environment disc like BartPE (discussed above).

You shouldn’t format your primary drive, though, if you have no way of reinstalling Windows, or if you want to keep any of the data on it. Since you don’t have a restore disc, that probably isn’t your best option. If you do find your restore disc, or another copy of Windows, you can reformat during the reinstall process. If you’re just trying to improve your drive’s performance, defragment it with Window’s default defragmenter.

SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION Are flames shooting out of the back of your rig? First, grab a fire extinguisher and douse the flames. Once the pyrotechnic display has fizzled, email the doctor at doctor@maximumpc.com for advice on how to solve your technological woes.

How To: Create the Ultimate Boot Disk

Josh Kampschmidt — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 17:00:00 -0600

Looks like your system is on the fritz again -- it refuses to boot your operating system. What do you do now? You can take it a tech shop and have "experts" investigate the problem, but that a costly option. Even if your computer can’t load Windows, there is still a way to fix boot problems without reformatting. With the right boot CD, you can perform your own troubleshooting dianosis the cure whatever ails your PC. Our guide will show you how to make a powerful boot disk that'll let you do more than just access a DOS prompt. You'll be able to run processor stress tests, memory scans, edit partitions, and even extract hard drive data.

Time = 1 hour

What you need:

Windows XP Install CD
Ultimate Boot CD
Free, http://www.ultimatebootcd.com
Ultimate Boot CD for Windows
Free, http://www.ubcd4win.com
2 blank CD’s

Downloading and Booting the Ultimate Boot CD

The Ultimate Boot CD features software that can do everything from run a CPU stress test to scanning your hard drive for bad sectors. All of the included utilities are easy to use and should be in every computer technician’s toolkit. You can individually download all the software that is on the UBCD, but this package saves time by including all the software on one convenient CD.

Go here to download the Ultimate Boot CD image. You can download from any of the mirrors listed, but if possible, we recommend you grab the compressed zip image so the download is smaller. They all produce the same ISO file, so it doesn’t matter what type you download.

After the download is complete, extract the archive and then burn the ISO to a blank CD. You need to burn it as an ISO so your computer can boot from it. Both CDBurnerXP and IMGBurn can do this and are free.

Once the disk is burned, start up the faulty computer and boot from this disk. You may have to change the boot order in order to boot from your optical drive. Press F8 (sometimes F10, depending on the motherboard) to get to your system’s boot menu.

When you are prompted, press Enter to boot off of the disk.

You will be given a main menu that serves as an interface to all the tools. You will only use the first six options. Here is a quick run-down of all the sections on the Ultimate Boot CD.

Mainboard Tools: In this section, you will see tests for almost everything that physically connects to a motherboard. If you wanted to test your RAM for example, you would launch one of the Memory test programs and then press Enter.

Hard Disk Tools: In this section, you will find all the tools that have to do with hard drives. You will see formatting tools, disk cloning tools, installation tools, diagnostic tools and many others.

Filesystem Tools: The utilities here are primarily useful if you want to edit partitions or do something with boot managers.

Other Tools: This section is a catchall for the various tools that did not fit into any other section. You will find malware removal programs and network tools. We recommend you avoid this section since the malware removal tools tend to be dated.
User-defined Tools: These are apps you create yourself and will not be covered in this guide.
DOS/Linux Boot Disks: This section has a collection of various boot disks that run in DOS or Linux. These can be very useful if you are trying to retrieve data off your hard drive.

Why Use the Ultimate Boot CD

The Ultimate Boot CD is primarily designed for people that are having serious non-OS-related problems with their computer, including faulty hardware. Excluding the operating system makes it easier on you to troubleshoot an error.

Memtest86+ for example, found under Mainboard tools and then Memory Tests, is useful if you are having problems that you don’t think is software related. The program gives you a general idea of whether your RAM is operating as it should.

The hard drive diagnostic utilities found under Hard Disk Tools, are useful when you are having disk corruption issues or if you are just having strange problems and already got the all-clear from Memtest86+. Every major hard drive manufacturer has diagnostic software included on the Ultimate Boot CD. These programs will scan for errors and let you know if it is time to RMA or throw away that hard drive.

The Ultimate Boot CD contains many other utilities to diagnose computer problems, including stress testing applications, partition editors, boot managers and many other software diagnostic programs.

Downloading and Booting the Ultimate Boot CD for Windows

As the name implies, the Ultimate Boot CD for Windows is specifically designed to work with Windows. This means most of the utilities on this CD are native to Windows and can only be used on a Windows-based system.

The Ultimate Boot CD for Windows uses Windows XP files and Bart PE to boot. Since it uses Windows XP files, this boot CD is not distributed as an ISO since it would break Microsoft’s EULA. Instead, you must manually build the project files.

Click here to download the project file. It is a large file so make sure you download this file with a broadband Internet connection.

Put your Windows XP CD into your optical drive. Create a new folder on the desktop and name it XPCD. Explore the CD, but do not run the disk, and drag all the files on the CD into this new folder. This will create a copy of all the XP files that are on the CD. If you do not do this, your CD will not be able to boot and the build process will fail.

Double-click on the UBCD4Win file. An installation wizard will display that lets you change the extraction location. Keep all the default settings to minimize the chance of problems. The program will extract the files to the C:\UBCD4Win directory.

After the program is done extracting, it will want you to do a MD5 Hash verification to make sure the file is not corrupt, click Yes to verify the file.

If you receive any errors on the hash check, re-download the file because a corrupted file may cause serious problems when trying to build the CD.

After the verification, UBCD4Win will start enumerating the files and folders to make sure there are no missing files. If it detects that there are files missing, you will have to re-download the file, otherwise certain tools will be missing.

Once UBCD4Win completes the individual file integrity check, you can start building the CD, but first UBCD4Win will ask if you want to check for patch releases and minor updates. You aren’t required to do this, but we recommend that you click Yes.

The updater is mostly useful if you plan to download the patch releases after a new version comes out.

The UBCD4Win builder is now ready to start, click Finish.

When the UBCD4Win PE Builder starts, you will have to accept the EULA -- make sure you read it.

Do not search for Windows installation files, since it will take forever. The reason for creating a folder with all the XP installation files earlier was so we could skip this step.

You should now get the main PE Builder window. You will see a Source, Custom, Output, and Media Output section. We will be using the Source, Output and Media Output section.

Click the “…” button to the right of the Source text box. Direct it to the XPCD folder you created earlier and click Ok. In the Output section, leave the word Bart PE alone.

We recommend that you create an ISO image first, but you can also burn directly to a CD. We are going to assume that you are creating an ISO image.

PE Builder will store the ISO in C:\UBCD4Win and name it UBCD4WinBuilder.iso. Don’t change the name or location.

Click on the Build button and PE Builder will start building the ISO .

It may take a while to build the ISO. When it is done building, click the Close button and then click Exit on the PE Builder window.

Navigate to the UBCD4Win directory, C:\UBCD4Win. Inside of that folder, you will find UBCD4WinBuilder.iso. Burn this file, as an ISO, to a blank CD. If you do not have burning software, CDBurnerXP and IMGBurn can burn it and both are free.

Burning the image is the last step in the build process. To use this CD, just restart your computer and boot from the disk. You may have to change your boot order in the BIOS to do this.

Why use the Ultimate Boot CD for Windows?

Unlike the Ultimate Boot CD, this boot disk features applications that specifically run on Windows. The interface uses the traditional XP-style start menu. The reason it resembles Windows XP is that we used the Windows XP setup files.

The malware removal tools, for example, can be used to remove malware outside of Windows. These tools can update as long as you are connected to the Internet. This means the malware will not be able to “call home” but you will still be able to get your updates.

The CD features other programs besides anti-malware programs; it also features many other programs. Here is a short list of things you can do with the Ultimate Boot CD for Windows.

•   Stress Test your computer
•   Browse the Internet with Firefox or Internet Explorer
•   Create PDF’s
•   Edit User account passwords and other passwords
•   Edit the registry
•   Backup your hard drive, clone partitions, and diagnose your hard drive
•   Burn CD’s

Six Essential Steps to Diagnosing and Curing a Slow Startup

Josh Kampschmidt — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 15:00:00 -0600

So your computer is taking too long to boot, after being bogged down by dozens of startup applications you’ve downloaded over the years. You might want to just format, but that’s the coward’s way out. If you spend a little time tuning up your boot applications you may avoid the time it takes to wipe and restore your system altogether. Don’t give in to clutterware -- follow our guide to the essential methods of troubleshooting your PC’s start up sequence and freeing Windows of unnecessary resource hogs.

Check Startup programs with msconfig

One of the greatest utilities included with all modern versions of Windows is the Microsoft Configuration Editor. To launch the editor, click the Windows Key and R; in the box that pops up, type msconfig.

Click on the Startup tab. You will get a list of all the programs that are starting up when your computer boots.

Look through the list of startup programs. Find any programs that you do not want to start up and uncheck them. Popular culprits include nagging auto-update tools from Microsoft, Adoble, and Apple. System tray utilities, like Nvidia control panel, are also often booted from this list. Narrow this list down until it only includes essential startup programs, like anti-virus software and hardware drivers.

Click on Apply and then click Ok. You will receive a message requesting you to restart, do so now. If your computer boots fast, no further action is required.

Check Startup services with msconfig

Msconfig also does a good job at managing system services at boot up. Most of the services included in the list are Microsoft services that you do not want to disable. Even though this might speed up your computer, it would disable key services that your computer needs to run properly.

Open msconfig again as you did in the previous step and click on the Services tab. You will get a huge list of services. You do not want to disable all of these services. Instead, check the box that says "Hide All Microsoft Services".

You should now have a smaller list of services. Click the Disable All button followed by the Apply button. Then, comb through the list and enable the services that are essential to your boot, such as anti-virus, video and network services. Restart your computer. Come back to this guide after the reboot.

Weed out Culprits with Autoruns

Autoruns is an excellent program that shows exactly what is running on your computer at boot.

You can download Autoruns from the Microsoft TechNet website.

Extract the files to your Desktop. Double-click on the Autoruns application file. Read through the EULA agreement that appears and click Agree.

When the program opens, you will see a window with a bunch of different tabs. This shows everything that is starting at boot on your computer.

Under the Everything tab, which the program should have defaulted to, look through the entire list. You can safely ignore any of the Microsoft services. If you find one that you do not recognize, research the filename or service name.

Uncheck any of the entries that you do not want to start at boot and then close the program. Restart your computer. Come back to this guide if your computer still boots slower than expected.

Next: Cleaning up your Registry and using Event Viewer.

Clean up the Registry

Normally, registry entries do not affect the speed of the startup process. But if your registry isn’t organized to operate efficiently, it can cause slowdowns in your normal PC operation.

We are going to use Comodo Registry Cleaner to fix the registry.

Download the Comodo Registry Cleaner from the following link. Save the file to your Desktop.

Install the Comodo like any other program, and make sure to keep the default settings.

Click the Scan My Registry button and wait for the results. Click the Clean Registry button.

Restart your computer after the scan is completed.

Troubleshoot with Event Viewer

One of the best troubleshooting programs available is Event Viewer. This program keeps track of all errors that occur on your system.

Click the Windows Key and hit the R key. In the Run box, type eventvwr.msc

Expand the Windows Logs section of Event Viewer and click on Application.

This area will show you all the errors that your system has generated. Scroll through the list and look for red X's.
If you want more information on the error, double-click it.

The tricky part is figuring out what causes the error. If the error points to a device driver, one of your devices might be malfunctioning. If it points to a program, one of your programs might be malfunctioning. Research all the errors on Google that have occurred in the past day.

Check your Hardware

If your computer is still not starting up as fast as you would like, there are some possible causes.

Your computer needs a RAM or processor upgrade. More RAM and a better processor will help Windows boot faster.
Your computer is infected with malware. See our guide on removing malware.
One of your hardware devices is failing.

If the third cause seems likely, you might have some hardware that is getting ready to fail. The most likely hardware would be your RAM and hard drive. Both are easy to check.

Download the Ultimate Boot CD. Burn the ISO to a blank, writeable CD using IMGBurn or your favorite burning software.

Restart your computer and boot from the CD you just created. Run Memtest86+. Let it complete a full pass. If any errors are detected, you have RAM problems.

If the RAM comes back clean, run your hard drive manufacturer's diagnostic software on the hard drive. If it comes back with a problem, you have a hard drive problem.

Your computer should now be faster than when you first started. If your computer is not as fast as you would like, it may be time for an upgrade or just may be time for a clean install of Windows. If it has been a few years since your last format and reinstall, then it might be time to start fresh with a clean install of Windows.