Maximum PC

This

indeed.

I carved a basic shape first, for the bezel. Then I'll carve and sculpt notches and crevices into it

That is looking so sweet. I MUST HAS!

Black Plastic loom in (1/4" and 1/2" diameter) will be embedded and intertwined throughout the bezel and top panel. The entire skull will be painted matte black

I love this painting, Giger's landshaft XIX

Erm, double post again?

(scratches head) sorry..

Skully is painted and has gone back into his 5.25 column

Black & White stills

I like it!!!

Cool!

Heres the tools I use to sculpt the insulation foam, but it's always good to experiment on your own.

To cut thick foam, I use a snap-off blade utility knife.



To smooth the pieces, I use a Surfoam Shaver by Stanley Tools


For making intricate details in the foam, I'll use an array of the tungsten carbide cutter bits from Dremel, I mainly use the #9911

I inserted 2, 1/4" threaded steel rods today in each side of the bezel. I also did some changes on
the top section to expose the plastic loom.

dude ur Idea is sick, best mod ive ever seen, Do u sell them, mabe we could work somthin out of paypal or whatevs..seriously sweet idea..things beastly

Thank you, this is gonna be my baby

My friends in Europe will recognize this, it's a universal euro license mounting plate.
The recessed features and fastener holes play the part in my theme.




Applying Evercoat Everglass fiberglass filler


I've cut portions of the license mounting plate to fit the sides of my bezel

Curies what color u gonna paint the foam..Lookin good soo far..

Everything will be Matte Black before we airbrush the features

Next stage is to cove the foam core with Fiberglass Filler, sand that, then sculpt more features. Pondering idea for adding ribbed spines to the circular frames for the 3 intakes.

If the weather holds up, I can start sanding the fiberglass shell... Preferably outside!




Whenever I feel like I've got a big challenge ahead of me, I look at this photo of Ed "Big Daddy" Roth sculpting the plaster on the fairing for his "Rubber ducky" Trike ...notice plaster bags stacked behind him..Ed was the godfather of custom cars and bikes in the 50s/60s

Found time today to get outside and start the process of smoothing out the fiberglass filler.

I'm predicting another week of sanding and grinding before the surface will meet my expectations.

I'm armed with Filtered Respirator, Black & Decker Mouse Sander and 120 grit sandpaper.. Let the transformation begin!

Note: This is Evercoat brand's Everglass "Short Strand" Fiberglass Filler









[img]

Beautiful, been watching the updates on youtubes as well. Keep up the good work. W00T

Thank you, I predicted a week of sanding and grinding the filler in the bezel, but I'm gonna request a time extension.. lol

Any pin holes or pock marks seen will be filled again

Kinda like to help here an speed the sanding an finishing up.This sorta falls into what i used to do.Grew up in a body shop did every thing from totals to custom dragsters,airbrush work to sandblasting windows designs.

The filler your usen gets very hard does an make a waterproof shell (great from keeping the chemicals in paint from eating up the foam ),i preferd the usc verson of that http://www.levineautoparts.com/duraglass.html but their close .

Now havieng done some scuptures with this stuff steping up to a smoth surface just useing that filler alone is very very much a pita.You get pin holes an it top coats some itmes depending on humidity gumy( always suposed to keep old sand paper to break the gel gummness ) .So it makes for exclent ruff'n in but finish levling work, not so much.

We used to like to step up with http://www.levineautoparts.com/allmetal.html still makeing a decent job water wise ,leveled well , and sands a bit better than the fiberglass .Some times has a gellish coat to it .Some times we'd get old cans ( main reson we quit usen it actualy )but once threw it sanded exlent an would not shrink.

But for this i'd go with http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/usc-21000.html easyer to work with by far. Makes good corners.Sands great 220 grit paper to this is like takeing 80gt to reg filler .and tapers out well with 400grit.

Toping out easy to use (dont make corners from this tho ) is http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/usc-26006.html .Not sure if your planing on wet sanding an priming a good epoxy primer an you got a slick finish .Guessing your gona go semi gloss on it.Which would give ya some room for error.It wold hide flaws a litle bit.

Good to see ya usen a good mask .Dust masks the thin ones just dont do enuff.Tween that an paint fumes ones lungs can get trashed over time .Did mine at least :/

One more thng as a melty ruff look you could brush fiberglass resen on the foam to begin with ,if its not thinded with laquer thnner it should not eat up the foam .Stoping their i dont think it would look bad with original source style imho.

That's just Awesome!

Thanks for the posts and advice!

I've been at the mercy of weather this week, so I haven't worked on the bezel. We're supposed to get in mid 40s today... "Get out your shorts and sun tan oil!"



I'm proud to announce that Cooler Master is sponsoring this build with a new Real Power M1000 Power Supply (RS-A00-ESBA).

I can confidently power whatever hardware I get from this point on ...lol