Maximum PC

Well this is the first time in over a month I booted my main machine. All pieces of the cooling setup are in place. I still need to do alot of finish work. My custom top for it still needs work, and I need to do some major wire management.

I just wanted to get it up and test it out. It appears the blocks are properly seated as my temps for both CPU's is hovering at 35*C(SWEET!). This is running them at 2240Mhz with 2 instances of FAH.

For comparison, when I had 2 SLK800's cooling FAH would bring the CPU's over 50*C. It also much quieter as I have these 120MM Delta M's(all 10) running half their rated speeds with the controllers.

the wires are a bit messy, but other than that, nice job

Ya I still have much finish work to do, but I couldn't wait to see the result Thanks.

sweet work. looks sweet and performs sweet, what more could you ask for. tuck away some cables and hide that black thing on the botton of your case, is it the pump? whats procs are you running at 2.24? and those ram sinks on your vid card look nice too.

These are Athlon2500+ XP(barton core b4 the lock) modded to MP. Today they ran 2320Mhz all day FAH without a hiccup. The black thing is indeed a pump and I don't know exactly how I am going to hide it, but it would be nice. Maybe I can consrtuct a housing from aluminum flashing I have laying around.

Thanks for comments.

couldnt you move the pump to the other side of the case?

Looks like Asetek blocks, but what is that radiator? Looks enormous compared to my little rads:D

And is there an easy way to purge that thing at first? Just run it and the bubbles come out in the resevior?

Blocks: DD Maze4 1/2" fittings.

Res 1 dual bay DD branded bay Res.(I hate the Typhoons).

Res 2 WACC P/A Res. Great unit, but the cost is high since you need to find someone in UK to send you one. So its not a great value.

Radiator was purchased from an Anandtech Member WA261. He sells them on Ebay as well and they ROCK! Dual 120MM heatercore.

Here is one of his auctions.

Very similiar in style to BIX2 and performs just as well if not better at a cheaper cost He will also do a custom color if you wish at a nominal fee. I had mine done in a Dark Green Mettalic. I HIGHLY recomend this radiator.

As far as bleed/fill this setup is awesome. When filling you loosen the top(not take off) on the second res for pressure/air release in it. You fill the first res and once both res are filled you will see the pressure has pushed water through the pump and even both blocks at this point. Turn pump on and rad gets filled and all air in rad now gets pushed out the first res. Top it off and its done.

When draining fluid out its just as good. Prop the unit at a slant and undo the cap at the bottom of second res. This will remove fluid from both res,pump and blocks. The only thing left is rad, and I just unclamp the hose at the second block and at the firt res and hang them out the side and tip the machine over. Done.

Hmmmm...would that be the same as a Frozen CPU tundra? Can I get some dimensions from ya?

The CMstacker's top PS area is 7.5" wide x 8.5" deep that I have to play with. The Tundra fits in a 5-1/2" bay and really isn't fitting my plans. It's too small, and if I use the PS plate, the opening is exactly 5.5" x 3" and leaves no room for slack. I'm no fan of clear/Lexan/Plexy...but I'm limited to this if I want to use this space.

I'd love to find something like the cooltech Res though!
http://www.cooltech.it/it/oldsite/kit/008_B3.jpg
Have you seen any stainless or a shiny metal res like that around? I only have the clear bay units or the tube types (tank-o-matic) to pick from right now, but I'd really like a box for the area up top. I basically like the baffled boxes if I have to choose them, and the cooltech has a submerged pump in it. I'd like to avoid it if possible.

wow, that case is nuts, how did you combind the two? epoxy? Also nice water set up i think im going to try that soon.

NO, the tundra has the same MFG flaw I find in the Typhoons. I will measure mine up tonight for ya. The difference is, the Dangerden uses 3/8" thick acrylic, which is why I like it. The others use a thin walled acrylic and when they drill the hole for mounting screws they have to plug it from the inside with a small piece of plexi glued to the wall. Using 3/8" thick acrylic allows DD to drill these mounting holes without going all the way through. A much more trustworthy approach to leak free operation. So no matter what the brand make sure the walls are 3/8".

I know for a fact the Typhoons aren't 3/8" and had an accident with one. The accident was kind of there fugging fault too. The screws packaged with it were too long. When screwing it in the screw pushed the glued plug right out! I didn't notice that until I filled it ugggh. If you can't fit/use a DD branded bay res then mount a cylindrical one.

As far as metal reservoirs I only know of the WACC P/A res's I use. They do cost a mint to get shipped from the UK, but to me they are well worth it. If you need me to help you get one I can, but like I said it will be pricey, especially since I won't let it ship regular post as it takes forever and can get lost. I will keep my eye out for other matal res' for ya though. Hell, it would be nice if you knew someone who worked with metal. Making a simple res out of Al would be cinch for em.

That isn't 2 cases. Its just one very large server case

case info

Hell, I can tig aluminum or stainless together to make a box. But I'm not sure about a lot of things to as far as engineering one for a good res.

Would just a baffle placed inside seperating the inlet and outlet bungs be good enough?

Ah hell. I'm just going to make a steel box and plate it. If it don't work, then it don't work;) It's just a tank for pete's sake! I blow things up into deep science too much:p This will only take scrap I have around anyway.

Indeed if you have the tools and skill, just make a box man. All it has to do is hold a load of water.

Yes I would just tac a simple baffle that is at least 3/4 the length of the box to seperate water inlet/outlets to increase the chance of the metal construction aiding in temps. then if you want to go further, tac some small flaps randomly through out the bottom and even sides to increase surface area for heat pickup.

If you had spare copper plate to use, that would be best, because then you could use alot less additive. With blocks and radiators being copper having a copper res would help wisk away more heat and stop "battery effect" corrosion. Down side though is copper starts to look ugly quick all on its own, so the outside wouldn't look so good after a bit.

All in all though I don't have those materials/tools/or skill so will stick with the best prefabbed res, the WACC