Maximum PC

Here is another update :

The Deflector Tunnel!
So, What do we have to do here. Fit the MDF PSU casing into the tunnel, fit the HDD drive cage with 2 HDD's and a SSD, fit the Laing DDC pump and add a 92mm fan for the HDD cooling.


Here is an upside down picture for explanation. After a tip from The Boiler I incorporated a structural element that will make attaching the case to the standard far more easy.
The MDF PSU casing has been raised for a couple of cm's making it stick out under the case. This will make it fit into a slot in the to be build standard and when everything is neatly airbrushed the model will seem to float 1,5 cm's above the standard (well thats the idea at least, LOL)


A little jump forwards, I was so busy I forgot to take pictures! I cut the raised casing out of the foam and sunk the HDD cage into it. Also added some structural elements to make it more stiff.

The foam "behind" the HDD cage has been removed to allow a 92mm fan to be placed pushing the air out of the tail section. So cool air is coming in through the raised PSU casing and pushed out through the tail-fan




Enough room for all the cables, esspecially when they have all been made to perfect length





I only have to move the pwr connector and switch to the back. A bit sorry to have to void the 5 year warranty on a PSU that has been in my posession for less than a day. Oh well, all part of the game right !?!





Put everything into the epoxy/glassfiber and put some additional layers where the tubing willenter the tail and where the fan will be cut out.


Here for the tubing :


Gonna drop by the hobbyshop tomorrow for some hinges to make the pylons and warp nacelles move up and down.
Laters
ASPHIAX

Soon enough?
Another Update ! Finally had some time to translate!
HMMM Let poke some holes now the epoxy is dry


It finally became a 80mm fan. Just wouldnt get the 92mm in without it looking strange.


The Tail fan


I can still add the os SSD between the HDD's and they will still have enough cooling


Started on the Pylons with the warp nacelles. Added a couple of small hinges.


This should be made possible to do electrically (by the servo's running of an arduino) by pushing a button on the commbadge !


Warp speed !


Holes..


More holes ...


Jeffries tube from the series




The next pictures were made with green tubing for testing purposes. They will be replaced with feser white UV tubing as the whole interior will be airbrushed black and the led fan will be bue.
Ingress from the warp nacelles and egress towards the mobo and pump




Quick fitting session with all the deflector tunnel hardware fitted


Almost a shame to have to enclose this with foam


Well that was it for today
Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is a small update
The Epoxy clay is in and I feel like a kid again ...
(only wished I payed better attention at craft class,lol)



I was first planning on heating the depron with a small oven to about 90 degrees celsius and then bending it for the rims of the case. But after a small test last week I found out that my hands are not fireproof (How could I forget that :hurt:)
So the Apoxy Sculpt Clay is giving me the flexibility I need and will make for a sturdy rim after hardening.


Here is an overview with all the lines on the canope. Took some time but now I can "fill" every thing in with the depron/Apoxy combo.
"










This is the fun part ! I was really looking forward to the detailling of the canope.
You can just see the case come to life before your eyes.
FINALLY !!!!!

Here is another short update !
Gotta keep the wheels turning for the may deadline of the coolermaster contest

Still a lot of work.


A little jump forward, I was so concentrated on the work, I forgot to take pictures








Slowly but surely its starting to look like something!

Finally had some time to translate. Be prepared , this is going to be a big post!





Doing the lining is very important or else you can find yourself a fat centimeter higher on the right side as you can see on this picture. Did have to do my best to get this resolved, but success!






Here are some detailed pictures of the Apoxy Clay




Took some pics this morning of the caly work of last night. Even though I have not done anything with Clay since I was like 10 years old, the work is progressing nicely.
The trick is to let the clay harden a bit before putting it on. That way when you apply some pressure it doesnt turn to mush when you're being a bit to forcefull. I am thinking when everything is finished and sanded and painted you wont be able to see the difference between the clay and the depron.





A guy on another forum asked me what the reason was I used clay instead of depron for certain parts. Here is the answer!
Thansk for asking! Took some pics this morning.
here is a plate of depron and a A4 piece of paper. Will be using the paper as I am carefull with my depron (this depron is 3 mm thick btw)


To bend a cornour is relatively easy. Done this with my wife's hairdryer, a heatgun or paintstripper, although the heatgun and stripper heated the depron to quickly which buckled.


But its not the only bend I need to make. Esspecially the nose is a complex collection of curves and bends. If you would to bend the depron like this it would be possible to cut out the wrinkles and make the pieces to fit but the front would be covered with straight lines and it should be a perfectly smooth curve!


I tried different techniques, from heatguns to hairdryers to little ovens, I even boiled the depron but i just wouldnt work or turn out the way I wanted it. The clay does all that without bruning myself.




Small update on the work yesterday


Here is a good example why the depron work can sometimes take so long and you have to redo certain parts.
Nice and straight line right? I put a line in with paint for clarification.


Guess again !!!! Due to all the different curves I almost have to start to think in 3D!








Well that was it for now,
Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is an update on the LCARS Fancontroller.
After spending several hours cutting out the final pieces from the panel it looks like this. Put the LXE next to it to give an idea of the layout.




I ran this front through the CNC of a friend of mine but the result is not completely there yet. There are little pieces curled up in the corners that i just can remove. Tried a heatgun (almost ruined the whole front with it as the rapid heating caused the thin element to buckle), scalpels and a soldering device. Just isnt the cleanness I was hoping for.


Gonna try lasercutting the front now!
Keep you updated!

Here is another update.
Got tired of the depron work and descided to go and do some hardware work.

This is my first serious build and I was able to get some execellent hardware.


Lets start with the Gigabyte motherboard. Isnt she pretty with them golden accents and good eye-candy factor!


Unfortunately I am going to have to do some work on it. I want to completely Watercool the EURISKO and I will have to change out the stock motherboard cooling elements.
This one is going in the cabinet with special hardware at the office. Beautifull piece of technology!


And these I hve to fit onto the mobo. From left to right; EK Mosfet Waterblock, Koolance 370 CPU waterblock and finally the EK NF200/SB Waterblock


Installing them took about an hour. Always a fine fiddly work work with them standoffs


While installing the 2600K the first thing you notice is the split in the processor socket.


I am not going to push the setup to its absolute limits (but I will give it a good run) So I opted for 8Gb Corsair 1600 CL7 RAM. Looks good and has ditto reviews, so we will see!


Also fitted all the Bitspower fittings. Which Fittings? Well these :


Credz to Vincent!



This is how I am intending to fit all the hardware. (a plexiglass sheet will cover the mdf)


Put the tubing in its place also to see if I had enough. Need to order a couple of feet more!






Well that was it for today, thansk for watching!
ASPHIAX

Here is another update.
Had a couple of bad weeks modding wize ...
All sorts of deliveries didnt show up when I had the time to work on them and once they came they send the wrong stuff. Very annoying and I am starting to worry about the coolermaster contest. especially now I have decided to rebuild the entire warp nacelle setup. but thats for later in this post. let start at the beginning ...

I spend several hours thrying to think my way out of the warp nacelle setup as I need to be able to get to the components inside to change out a tube or fix a leak.

So I made a plug to go over the front and back of the nacelle.


Had all sorts of idea's on how to be able to remove them and some people on the dutch forums were really creative with magnets and stuff. I decided on using velcro. Unfortunately I was only able to put really small strips of the stuff in the edges of the MDF. I ordered the heavy duty velcro and now when I remove the plug, I take the whole velcro with it. To much adhesive power is a bad thing here , LOL


Also the inside towards the nacelle needs to be nice so I made some ridges out of depron. I can't finalise the nacelles because I dont have the led/mircocontroller setup yet so I had to fix everything with tape ...


It all needs to be filled out with putty and sanded


You can start to see why I decided to redo the whole warp nacelles setup.
To fat, clunky, too high, relative size compared to main body, pointing inwards, just doesnt ring my perfectionist bell .


The front and back have been fitted with a plug, but I also have to be able to get to the fittings in the pylon for placing tyraps or tube clamps.


Solution was an MDF panel that is screwed in. Just have to make the detailling on the outside so i can reach them at all times. Challenges , challenges, challenges ...


Here is a picture of what I am planning to do. Get the res out of the casing and make a new hexagon side panel. This will reduce the courners making it more fluid and remove some fatness... (black is what it was, red what it will become.

Bottom picture is what I initially had in mind but a ellipsoid res is nowhere to be found.

Visio version of the design


The new nacelle compared to the old. The dif is huge !
and if its to small now compared to the main body, thats easily fixed with depron detailling


Nice big surface area for the light to come out of the nacelle, even when it is in warp configuration.


All the fittings are now within the MDF, this resolves a lot of tension the tubing was placcing on the XPS foam. It has got some extra room to fit the led lights now. Just have to think of another way to get to the fittings it once its finished. All good (time-consuming) Fun !!!

Ok, Here is another weekend update.
Finally a good day after all the setbacks timewize.

Rebuilding the warp Nacelles (the other ones were just tryouts)


Thinner, sharper, more according to the designs, time well worth!


with the little coverpieces around the reservoirs its going to be good wiorking the depron.


And directly into the paint. probably not going to be able to see the backwall with the gigawatts in leds I am going to put it , lol


Also my plexiplate for the mdf baseplate finally arrived ! gonna saw it up tomorrow


Also was able to think my way out of the lcars fancontroller and designed the whole bottomsaucer depron work.


Finally a good day, hope to have one tomorrow also!
Laterz
ASPHIAX

Kim to the Captain ...
Janeway : Yes mr Kim
Kim : Good news from engineering mam, we are ready for a pressure test of the new warp nacelles.
Janeway : well then mr Kim, by all means go ahead !
Kim : Pressure test beginning in 5...
4...
3...
3...
1...
Mark ...



Janeway : Ehh I am no expert but shouldnt there be a glowing phenomenon coming from the nacelles ?
Kim : Let me try re-calibrating the Molex converter and adjust the PSU Output by bypassing all non-essential SATA stations ...
Janeway : I am waiting ..
Kim : AHHH ... Succes !!!



ASPHIAX : Please to report a two hour full leak test !

Pfew ...

Here is a short update on the LCARS Fancontroller.

I have had to make compromises due to time stress. Will not be using different coulour leds in this version (ther will be a multicolour version somewhere in the future!!!) Also the on/off/reset buttons will not be implemented, but they will be present in the Lian-Li mediabay that will be fitted in the foot of the case.

Received the vinyl sticker from dennis from significs.nl. Works like a charm although I was fiddling around with it a bit as this was the first time i ever fitted a sticker like this.
Think it looks good !!!


My camera does not display the correct light ratio's between the fancontroller and the panel. the controller is easy readible "in real life". Colour is the same just a tad less bright.

Update !

Yess ... More Goodies !!!




Special Depron paint, backplate for my GFX, Lian-Li Media bay for external connections, new sticker, red leds for the Bussard Collectors in the nacelles, warm air/solder tool, ledstrip for the canope lighting, and a lot of molex stuff ...
Gonna be busy this weekend!

iTS depron time !




Man that take up a lot of time. Spend roughly 8 hours designing and building the bottom saucer. Could have made my life easy by doing just simple surfaces with little to no design work to make sure I'll be ready for the voting of the CM Compo but that's not how a want to play this game!
With this closing piece I have spend at least 30 minutes alone, getting it just right by sanding to a fraction of a millimeter.


Found a temporary solution (well solution, the problem is a lot less visable) for the CCFL issue with the LCARS panel.
Why were the CCFL's so visable? Because the rest of the inside of the case does not reflect light! If it would do that the strong light from the CCFL's directly would become less. So I used the same ALU tape I used in the canope to make it more reflective.


Ahh success, only now the light is reflected so good that the ratio between panel and fancontroller is completely lost. I need to devise a way to be able to dim the CCFL's. Think I will use the fancontroller, just need to check if the wattage is ok for that!. So solved one problem , only to find the next.


Also build the mediabay into the footing of the case. This will be integrated into the standard at a later date. Gonna finish it off with depron tomorrow!


Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is a short update!

Extremely expensive this plexi glas plate and now it looks like swiss chees (there's even more holes now)
First 2 are for the rad's, second is to replace the PSU (if needed) and the last is for the tubing towards the Pylons/Warp Nacelles


Also started work on the lasers. This is the 30mW green for the main deflector.






Pulled the coverplastic of the back of the plexi to get a better idea of the effect.




Did a boatload of other small and not very interesting but very much needed little jobs but I will not bore you with that.
Today a mandatory no-modding day as it is mothersday!

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Thanks man !
building something this large (its over 5 feet) and with no reference to materials or techniques does bring a large number of challenges.
funny though how stuff I never did before went ok and stuff that was easy went bad. Lets blame those Gremlins .. ehh Borg ... ehh Gremlins ....

I am going to do my best to get it as far as possible , but it will not have all the intended features.
sunday morning I will do a proper fotoshoot to show how far it has come.

Here is a small update of the work of yesterday evening.
(last night I did not work, I watched Tron, 2001 space odyssey en Moon after each other with a case of beer next to the sofa to comfort me after realising I wont make it completely)

Round LED PCB for the main deflector was intended to be a running light but ...


Warp 9!


The Bussard Collectors (red leds) I had to do 3 times to get it right, very time consuming

Hi Papang,
Thanks man, I will upload a video of the state at sunday, so sorry its about 90% complete.
Its featured on all the big sites like bit-tech, bestcasescenario and am talking to collermaster for transfer of this log tol the "normal" forum.
FrenkieNl is right, this one will probably never be truly finished, I already now have a large number of additional idea's like this one :

The Delta Flyer, maybe an idea for the mouse ?!?

Carved a quick little model from the foam, looks kinda nice ...


Let me see if i can build a mouse in there.
The dimensions are off, but this is just a test right


Actually went a lot faster than i anticipated ...


Those good old sateh spikes ...


2 spiks on the mouse buttons !


et voila, a custom mouse


Now need to build a detailed well proportined model, cover it with fiber, cut out the mouse buttons, glue a small nut on the back of it, glue the spikes on it, connect them to the button hardware, cover the connection with a little spring or something to keep it in place and airbrush it ....

Hi,

This is my final post for the 2011 casemod contest. I have worked my @ss off trying to get it finished before the deadline but I have not succeded.
The EURISKO is at 90% complete and I estimate it will take aniother 4 to 6 weeks before I can finish it in total. (I have to rewrite all the programming for the lasers and servo array as I have switched platform to ARDUINO based) Also work on the exterior with the intricate detailling in depron plastic done by hand takes more time then anticipated but I do not want to compromise the quality after spending at least 300 hours already on it.

Well here are the latest pictures and the final movie, hope you enjoy it as much as I have enjoyed building it !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHFx_GqFOKk













Thansk for watching and please let me know if you like the result (even though its not finished yet!!!)

Best Regards and Happy Modding !

ASPHIAX

Thanks man !

Ok, Here is the back from before - weekend update !

Some bad news :wallbash:
Yesterday I went or the last straw. I borrowed a friends pickup, loaded up the EURISKO and drove to a friend (very well versed in RC planes) to show him my troubles. After a couple of hours drawing, measuring and brainstorming we came to the conclusion that the initial design was the best and at the same time the only solution that would result in the pylons moving simultaniously and would fit within the very limited space available.
There is a space of 19x20x24 mm in which to place the servo's and create the fixation to transfer the force. It's just not enough.
The initial solution would work but the coolant in the tubing adds that much force that the small servo's wont cut it and I need bigger for which I dont have space. ARGHHHH !!!!

I have spent more than 50 hours working on this solution and its time I threw the tricorder in the ring.

(there is one solution left and that is to place a sping so the default action would be up and use bigger servo's that are connecte by a cable running through rings to the nacelles and that can be placed somewhere else in the ship. Sort of fly-by-wire type thing. This is not a big thing to install and can be done later)

Lets continue the Depron work






I did make life hard for myself with all them pretty round curves. Next time I will sculpt the foam more wisely so I wont have to bend every little piece with my wife's hairdryer.



Slowly but surely It's coming together now nicely. Then there's the next big challenge, painting !

Well that's about it, you're all up to speed!
Please tell me what you think of the work and dont hesitate to leave comments or suggestions!
I will be updating the log with a major update about every weekend and smaller ones during the week!
Best
ASPHIAX

WOW, allot of time and work went into that model and this thread...very impressive
Nice work ASPHIAX, even some nice links for parts at, HighFlow

Good day Alll, this is your captain speaking.

After the dooming de-commissioning of the USS EURISKO we are back better as before !!!
Looking at the ships logs of the last couple of days I have decided to focus the ships resources on upgrading the ships defensive and offensive systems. To better protect against any and all attack.

Starting with the main deflector.
The Main Deflector, one of the USS EURISKO's primary means of getting out of trouble. It is capable of generating all sorts of particle beams like Tractor, Tachyon and AntiProton beams and it will deflect small asteroid and laser weapons. During the final test run has also proven effective against all possible BULL-SH!T thrown at it during the last week. To review the main deflectors test run please follow this link :



The Captain would like to express his gratitude for all the support, messages and protests about past events and is currently working with Coolermaster Netherlands and Taiwan for a quick and fair (to me and all other competitors) resolution.

ASPHIAX OUT !!!

Seriously guys , thanks and be assured I will keep building the USS EURISKO !!