Maximum PC

Hello guys, I've been researching water cooling, but still have some questions. I want to cool my CPU (i7 950) and my two GPUs (MSI nVidia 470s). That would mean 3 waterblocks. Cooling them in series, according to my understanding, would not be very effective as the last waterblock would have warm coolant flowing thru it. Can I split the line into three smaller lines and run them through the waterblocks in parallel, rejoining them before entering the radiator? Or is there a better way? And when leak testing, I read to run the pump with the computer off and everything installed for 12 hours. When you do this, are you sitting there watching it for 12 hours straight? It sounds mind numbing, but I don't know how else you would react quickly enough to leaks... How does that work?

As for my goals, I want to have a quiet system that will allow me to do some mild CPU/GPU overclocking. I have an AZZA Solano 1000 case, but I don't think I will have room to internally mount a radiator. This computer is already built and running on air. I can provide case pictures if it will help. I have never water cooled before and would appreciate suggestions on waterblocks, pumps, rad/fans, etc. A bay reservoir would be great. I don't mind spending a bit if it means getting a quality water cooling solution.

I'm not en expert in water cooling either, but I can answer some of your questions.

Definitely not true, or they wouldn't sell those nifty little kits to easily place GPU water blocks in series. The temperature of the coolant isn't the important part. Although its generally assumed that keeping the CPU and GPU loops separate, or at least on separate sides of the radiator, most of the time it doesn't matter. It's more simple than you make it seem. The important part of a cooling system is that it absorbs Calories from the heat source and dissipates them by radiating them into the surrounding air or some other kind of output for the heat. Since water has a high specific heat, running through other water blocks won't change the temperature of the water enough to disrupt this pattern in subsequent blocks.
In other words, you'll be fine with one continuous loop.

No, you don't want to install the water loop into the system before leak testing, because if it leaks it will still get on the computer, defeating the purpose of leak testing. Build the loop outside of the computer with the blocks not installed, hook the pump up to the PSU, fire up the PSU, and run the water through the tubes for the required time in a place where any leaking water won't damage anything. Once you're sure it isn't leaking, install the blocks.

Thank you for the reply, you have raised another question. My radiator would likely have to be mounted on the exterior of the case. I have holes in the back for running coolant lines through, which makes it seem impossible to assemble the loop outside of the case and then install it. What do you do when you have exterior components?

First, the water passing over a block only has to be cooler than the block so that it removes calories. Those who claim that a loop in series is less efficient than a parallel loop are making as simple physics error. Their claim is often based on improper testing: they'll test each type of loop for an hour or so but it can often take days (!!) for the thermal load in a cooling loop to balance properly. This depends on the amount of water in the loop.

Next, you test your loop outside of the case so that finding a leak won't destroy your components. If your rad is external, you'll have to test your loop with tubes passing through the case .. but you can still have all of the components sitting outside the case.

It does seem running waterblocks in series is plenty fine, no concern there anymore. Leak testing with the blocks hanging out of the box makes sense too. Awesome. Now I just need to find good components. Are there any bay mounted reservoir/pump systems that aren't crap?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9542/ ... g30c97s168 and 2 laing ddc pumps or they make a similar res with only one pump as well if you just want one: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor.html

I wouldn't think I would need more than one pump for a CPU and two GPUs. I'm gonna have to go take another look at my case, it may actually be better to get a reservoir I can mount near the back, rather than run coolant lines from the back of the machine to the drive bays, then back out the rear again to the radiator.

You don't need more than one pump unless you are using 3 blocks with high restriction.

A res is easy .. it is just a box that holds water and has holes for your tubes.

Pumps are also pretty easy because .. well .. they are pumps. They haven't really changed much, so any pump that has been on the market for a while with good reviews will do. The DD Laing pumps are quite good.

They have other modified tops for the laing ddc you can get a res top for it that isn't for a drive bay they are very versatile. Basically just search laing ddc in google and you should find a ton of options.

I'm thinking the XSPC Laing DDC Reservoir Pump Attachment would work.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7226/ ... 30c107s152

Im going to get some red and blue UV tubing for effect. (this must be flashy, of course.) Looking at rads, I see ones designed for high and low flow. How do I know which kind I need?

I don't know if I have much choice in GPU waterblocks aside from the
EK GeForce 470 GTX VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acrylic (EK-FC470 GTX)

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11012 ... _Item.html

Anyone have a water block for a 1366 platform they would recommend?

make sure you check the compatibility list not all gtx 470's are the same. http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/wate ... 1109830086

Well that's a problem. I can't find any waterblocks for the MSI 470 twin frozr II... Am I boned?

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/newhardware try that and see what they say

If you look on their compatibility page they have a picture of the pcb that they used for the standard gtx470 from msi you can take yours off and compare and see if it is the same the gtx 465 and frozr 465 are the same according to their pics.

Hey perfect, thanks. If they say it's a no go, I can still RMA them and get compatable cards.

Fortunately the EK water block will work with my cards. Unfortunately they seem to be sold out for the time being. Oh well... I think I will go with this one when it is in stock.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11015 ... s922#blank

It doesn't have the acrylic top, which apparently are prone to cracking over time.

Will I be able to use a 140mm triple low flow radiator cooling my i7 950 + 2 470s, or will I likely need a quad?

From my understanding, the EK full cover GPU block is fairly restrictive, and I will be needing two. I don't know about how restrictive radiators are... What do I do to figure out if one pump is enough to do the job? Cuz if I need two pumps, I might as well get a high impingement CPU block.

Edit: I have fallen in love with this reservoir...


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11226 ... 1110#blank

I just have to try to find a place to mount it... Awesome eye candy, though.

You should also check out the offerings from Danger Den.
And as for acrylic tops, I've run several and have not had one crack as yet. I believe those that have had them crack are over tightening them.

For cpu block get the ek supreme hf it is the best. Not sure how restrictive it is though but I know it isn't the most restrictive.

It doesn't look very restrictive. Excellent.

I'll summarize things so far.

Pump: Laing MCP 355 with Danger Den acrylic top (1/2" barbs)

Reservoir: Liquid Fusion V series 160mm

CPU block: EK Supreme HF

GPU blocks: EK 470 full cover block (nickel plated copper. Acrylic top, less weight on the card is probably worth low chance of acrylic cracking)

Radiator: ??? (Radiator will be mounted externally, so quietness is important. Suggestions?)

Tubing: 1/2" ID red/blue UV reactive tubing. (red tube going from last block to radiator) Not sure exactly what kind of tubes I want.

Coolant: Distilled water with some sort of anti-biological additive.

The EK for the 470 were about impossible to find, which lead me to dump them for 460's which are oddly in stock pretty much everywhere. The Nickle plating and the Black Acetal top is the dog's balls IMO!

For your pump, check out the more powerful CPX or CPX pro over at Danger Den. Skip the reservoir and consider a T-line. Also consider lowering the tubing size to 3/8". I've been using TFC tubing the last two years and like it more than basic Tygon. It'll cost ya, but for a quiet set up it's hard to beat a TFC 2x120 ($110) with a pair of Noiseblocker BSF-XLP PWM fans. Set up correctly you can't hear them at all until the loads are really heavy.