I'd just try it yourself. You got the stuff? For soldering wire, it's pretty basic.
First, get the tools and supplies. I do it all the time at my job, so I got some good stuff to work with. The basics can be pretty cheap though.
I like my butane unit because you don't mess with cords, which I think is a PITA. But it's like a $90 blue-point (snap-on) model. It's a knock-off/copy of the Weller with a "blue-point" label which adds to the cost :p . An iron you plug into the wall can be had for about $10 at radioshack. Just get a couple tips with it, because I think the huge ones those come with are crummy for smaller work. Just plug it in and let it heat up. You'll have to "tin" a new iron, and in between uses, so google for that. tin solder iron how
You should also get a little sponge at this time and some solder. The sponge is used to wipe off the solder and slag when you use it. If you don't keep it clean, your solder joint gets dirty. You don't want that. And I like Kester brand solder. What I seem to keep and use alot is "44 rosin core" in a .031 diameter. I buy it in one lb. spools, but you can get smaller sizes. The .020 is too small for everything and the .031 is fine for about everything.
Get some heatshrink. Electrical tape is crap in the long run, and wingnuts are of no use in electronics. I prefer the "waterproof" type that has some glue type stuff in it. When you heat it, you can see the stuff ooze out the ends and you know it has a good seal. The cheaper stuff doesn't have this, and if you are off on size choice a bit, then it can slip around. Just get a couple different sizes as you'll need various sizes at some point. Take a note about colors. If you use a heatgun (like you're supposed to), then there's no problems. but if you use a lighter (which is wrong, but I do this anyway) it can turn the colored stuff black at points. But you need to cover your solder joint, and heatshrink is the only way to go IMO.
Now the soldering. The basic rule is to heat the component and apply the solder to the other side as you hold the iron on it. You heat the iron (you know it's ready when you tap solder to it and it melts) and hold it to one side of the wire, then somehow
gently press the solder to the other side of the wire and let it flow into the joint/strands. With Rosin core, it smokes a bit. Hold the iron on just long enough to get the solder spread out nicely and then long enough to let it smoke JUST A BIT. Pull it off and let it cool. *note=if there's no way to get the heatshrink on or off after the soldering process, get it on the wire BEFORE soldering. Many a time I've screwed this up by not thinking ahead. Once it's soldered, you drag the heatshrink down over the joint and shrink it. If you forget to put the heatshrink on first, then you may have to cut the joint and do it all over again.
That's basically it. The rest is all cosmetics. A good soldering job intails getting all the heatshrink lengths the same and the wire lengths the same. It just looks nicer in the end. Another mistake I see is "Y-ing" the line. That's when you have the wires parallel and twist the wires together. I don't like this as it's just ugly and hard to do well. What I do is strip back about a 1/2-3/4" of the wire to be soldered. Then overlap them (I can post pictures of this if you like) and then wrap them over each other. This makes a narrow profile and a stronger hold. One good tug on a Y'ed connection can pull them apart...and again, it's ugly.
Crap...I left my iron in my shop! Ahh...I can post pics later:p
As far as soldering actual discrete compontents (resistors, caps, cktboards, etc...) I'd get some practice first. Getting one of these too hot can hurt the part and yourself. I've had components blow up while I was learning because I got them too hot. But in case you're feeling brave, you need to keep the temp juuuuuust hot enough to melt the solder, which may be a different type than the "general" stuff I've listed above. I won't go into this aspect though as, again, think you should play with wires first to get the hang of it.
And don't use a blade (knife, utilty blade, etc...) to strip wires. Get a wire stripper! I've moved on to an automatic strippers because they're nice while you dig through 150 terminals that need done before lunch. I like the smaller plier type on a budget: Snap-on
And these are the automatic ones I like:not the right picture. They look like a gun kinda.
Looks like they don't carry the soldering kit I have anymore and now have a cheaper unit for about $45.