Here's My attmept to Get Everyone up to Speed On My New Project!
It's been a year now since Waaack and myself came up with a plan to build a new server, The question was what to build...The answer R2D2. The Idea came to us at lunch last August the research started shortly after that, In September the Build started.
Build a R2D2 clone, Close to screen accurate.
Make it R/C Controlled
Sounds and Wireless connectivity are a must.
This Work log will show what we've done and follow the continuation to completion.
As a side note, I didn't know about TGS R2PC till I meet CrimsonSky and Scarab this year at MML4. Both these mods are different and super sweet. This is not a contest or am I competing with RTS, we just share Similar interests. Hope you like it...For the first few weeks there will be allot of up dates...As it covers the first year of building, once we catch up updates will come as they happen..., I'm trying to finish as fast as I can, but the Real world keeps getting in the way of my Hobby, so be patients please.
Here we have the Frame Layed out (the outside has been Routed to shape with a homemade circle jig for the router) The Iside will be trimed away with a Saber saw.
Test fitting the Frame Rings to the Aluminum Dome.
The frame Assembled (the vertical bars are solid aluminun round stock).
I filled the low spots from forming with Auto body Glaze (it's like bondo, just for smaller "pin holes", it's down side is that is shrinks way more than bondo!) Then sanded it down. This was done till you couldn't see any of the seams or dents.
Next The Primer, Wet sand and remove any high spots (also filled in some more low spots), then 3 coats of prime (wet sand with 600/1000).
R2's Blue color is tricky, as it's a base of purple mixed with gold fleck and a blue candy top. I don't have the expertise in air painting, so I found a rattle can process that works (this was also based on Mr. Kridders work, with a redneck twist!).
Here is the base (as you can see it's a Metallic fleck deep Purple). 3 Coats of base then wet sanded with 1000 (I didn't want that orange peel look!)
The top is a blue anodized spray. (3 coats wet sanded with 1000)
Then I laid 4 coats of clear (3 wet sanded with 1000, then 1 light to clear up the fog!)
I've not polished or buffed it in these pics.
The frame took about 3-4 hours to make, the Alum vertical round bars took about 3-4 hours to cut then drill and tap a 1/4" hole in each end.
The Skin of the R2-SRV is 0.04" white Styrene (plastic). I got 2 4x8' sheets of this (The body is 18" around and 24"ish tall, plus the legs). If you looking for this stop in and see your friendly neighborhood sign maker, they can get it for you (it was $20us a sheet) Mine was there the day after I ordered it.
I had cad drawings of R2's body panels that I got printed out on E sized paper. That was lightly spray glued to the plastic. There are 4 sections of skins, the front inner, the front outer, the back inner, the back outer. This was done to give it that raised panel look when I finished cutting out the panels.
To get a feel for how it would look I taped the Rear outer layer onto the frame, Slipped the resin Power coupler in place and set the Aluminum Dome on top of the frame.
This is a look into the frame with the Rear skin on, no Dome, no front skins.
Now I can start cutting out all the panels....This is going to take awhile!
Here's what I'm working on now.
The Drive Train.....
I'm taking the Scooter motor / rear drive wheel assembly and adjusting it to fit into the feet boxes. I'll also be using the Batteries to power the motors.
Here is the donor a $49 Scooter form Big Lots
I've got it disassembled here....not much to it as you can see.
This Scooter will not engage the drive wheel till it's rolling 3mph...That will not do in R2 so I'm going to get rid of the controller here.
With the controller gone the 24V charging circuit is very simple.
I'll be posting more tonight or in the morning, I'm still unpacking R2 from the Midwest R2-builders mini con In Chicago (Bolingbrook) IL this weekend.
Let me know what you think!