Perhaps this link
might be of some use, for future reference. Like I said, it's pretty easy to make yourself, and small ones are available widespread nowadays. Mine is a Games Workshop model, designed to cut pieces to make scenery for Warhammer miniatures. I love it too, it's very very useful. I'll keep watching this thread too, the concept alone looks pretty sweet. I'm not a big TRON fan, but this mod appeals to me for the obvious reasons.
Also, for the glow fx, maybe you'll want to consider getting some of the actual paint they used in TL, from Alsa Corp
. They're the ones who make it. Of course, it only lasts 8 to 12 hours bright, so idk, more likely you'll benefit from LED or ccfl lighting instead.
Thanks for the link PM, I'll be looking into some of those options for making my own wire cutter. And that paint from Alsa is pretty amazing. Too bad it only lasts a day, otherwise I'd use it! For TRON I'll be using leds, and maybe a few UV ccfl's to light up the internals.
Ok on to the next update:
Here is the Plasti-Paste II from Smooth-On. It comes as part A and part B, and you mix it 1 parts to 2, respectively.
Opening up part B, the paste.
After doing some calculations, I figured out the volume of my mold, then converted to fluid ounces to get the total amount of mixture I needed. Here I'm measuring out 2 parts paste.
Transferred that to a larger mixing container. This stuff is thick! No sag whatsoever, which makes it great for applying to vertical surfaces.
Measuring out 1 part liquid hardener.
Thoroughly mixing the two parts together. This stuff normally has a 10 minute pot life, but due to the cold weather, that was greatly extended. Took about four times as long to set up, which actually worked in my favor, allowing me to take my time getting it onto the mold and smoothed out.
After applying a mold release agent (seen in the first pic), I troweled the paste onto the mold.
After about 40 minutes, it had set up to a hard plastic.
I repeated the process for the other side, and in a few hours I should be able to demold them.
Having coated the foam with the mold release, it should be easy to pop it out of the mold. I don't want to destroy the foam if I don't have to, just in case I need to make another set of fairings later. Once out of the mold, I'll need to clean up the edges a bit, and start smoothing out the top surface. I should be getting the acrylic parts in this week, so once they arrive, I can see how these fit, and find out if my template measurements were accurate! :worried: