With the Lid complete The Next step was to get the Arms in place.
The arms are PVC water pipe. The upper arm is 1 3/4" the lower arm is 3/4". The Elbow and Wrist joints are 1/2" and 3/8" socket universals.BIG PIC
I welded some washers on the ends of 3/8" steel Rod. The other end of the rod was beveled with a grinder and cross drilled for a cotter pin. These Rods go through the 3/4" wood vertical, trough matching holes in the PVC Pipes, and back through the second vertical. This allows the arms to move up and down. A couple of washer and the cotter pin keep the rods from working their way out.BIG PIC
While I was welding the Rods I also fabricated the hands. I wanted Cl4P-TP to be able to grip things. So I start with a steel spring clamp, an old 3/8" drive Socket (I think it was a 10 or 12mm one). The socket was welded to the back of the Clamp. this allows the hand to be disconnected and repositioned on the end of the arm in more ways than could be done with just the universal alone.BIG PIC
Once the Socket was welded on The Shields were welded in place. The shields are to give Cl4p-TP's hands the correct look from the game.BIG PIC
Both hands fully welded. BIG PIC
CL4P-TP also has Some Sheet metal Shoulder pads and a Steel Eye bill.
I cut the Base parts of these out of 16 gauge Sheet steel and the details were made from 20 Gauge sheet steel.
My Trusty Cordless Jigsaw made short work of the 16 Gauge steel. Tinsnips were needed for the 20 Gauge steel.BIG PIC
All these parts have a dimpled cover. To make the covers I laid out a staggered grid pattern on the back of the part. On every intersecting line I made a dent with a custom ground cold chisel and a ball-pion hammer.BIG PIC
Once complete the part was flipped over and you can see how nice and smooth the dimples are.BIG PIC
The Shoulder pads are made of two parts the larger base and the smaller dimpled detail. They run around the edge of the lid so there is an angled bend that needs to be made so they sit flush, both the base and detail have to match on another and the lid.
To do this we used a bending break. BIG PIC
Here is a look at the Eye Bill all the pieces are setting together before they get welded fast.BIG PIC
I had to come up with a way to attach the metal parts to the wooden lid. My solution was to weld bolts to the base pieces and use washers and nuts to hold them tight. To do this I cut the heads off some long machine screws. Then I drilled holes the same size as the bolts into the base plates. The bolts were welded from the top, and ground down flush.
Here's how the looked from the bottom.BIG PIC
The Details were then welded to cover the holes in the base.BIG PIC
So I've been welding allot on this Project. What am I using? It's a little 110V Lincoln Electric MIG.BIG PIC
Next Time I'll cover some of the Front Details, and Radiator mount, which will leave base Painting to be covered in a later installment... That will get you caught up to present.