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 Post subject: No signal on win7 new build.
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:17 pm 
8086
8086

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Ok, so my friend built a PC. It's his first build. but he got everything pretty much working. At first. He has finished installing the drivers for his motherboard (ASUS M5A78L-M USB3) and had booted his PC into safe mode. As he was installing the drivers for his graphics card (He used it in his old PC, It's an EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti) and rebooted his PC. He had forgotten, at that point, to remove the driver for his PC's graphics card. (Actually, thinking back, he never installed it, I'll look into that.)

It installed, and he switched the VGA cable to his graphics card (plugged into the only slot it'd fit in on that motherboard) and booted his PC. At first, it all went well. Booted into the BIOS, Starting Windows, etc. But then, No signal. He waited, and still no signal. So, he tried to reinstall windows, and it said it could not find some files.

So, basically, I think that's it. Thanks in advance, and I think I can say the same for him.


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 Post subject: Re: No signal on win7 new build.
PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:51 pm 
Coppermine
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 4:40 pm
Posts: 733
Assemble the computer (including the graphics card) and then do a fresh install of windows. Before you go to do the install, get into the BIOS and set the primary graphics as the PCIex16 slot (check out the manual start at p. 2-10 and read through 2-14).

You should be able to attach the monitor to the GPU and start the Win install. Once you've installed windows, load mobo chipset drivers first. Personally, I do the remaining drivers in the following order: audio, LAN, USB (if needed), graphics, any others.

Hope this helps.


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 Post subject: Re: No signal on win7 new build.
PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:22 am 
Thunderbird
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:17 pm
Posts: 926
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Unfortunately, the numerous links and formatting are stripped out of the HTML and I have no intention of adding them back, but I hope this template helps:

The first thing to check on a dead PC and monitor is that they are plugged in and that there is actually power coming out of the wall socket.

To start out, GmsCool on Eggxpert has a concise checklist that I really like (and I have arrogantly made less concise) for a new build troubleshoot:

Make sure the 4 or 8 pin power connector located near the CPU is plugged into the motherboard (MB) and it is fully seated. Make sure you are not using the wrong (i.e, PCI-E) 8 pin cable.

Make sure the 20+4 pin main power connector is fully seated into the MB.

Make sure the PCI-E 6 or 8 pin power connector is plugged into the GPU video card; if the card has such a connector(s), and that it (they) are fully seated. If this is a modular power supply make sure both ends of each cable are fully seated. If using a very power hungry card and PSU uses split +12V rails, make sure a "single" rail is not being overwhelmed by power demand. [images of various power connectors]

Make sure you used the standoffs that came with the case to mount the MB and not have mounted it directly to the case. [note: Some inexpensive cases use raised nipples in the sheet metal for direct mounts instead which is OK as long as all nipples correspond to mounting holes under the board.]

Make sure you used the rear I/O port panel that came with the MB, and not the one that came with the case. Make sure none of the sharp little tabs have shorted out in the ports.

Try one stick of RAM, and then another. Make sure the RAM is FULLY seated and snapped into place. Make sure the RAM is set in the BIOS at its specified speed, latencies and voltage.

Make sure there are no empty plugs from the PSU shorting out to the case.

Make sure the CPU fan is plugged into the CPU_FAN header.

For a USB keyboard mouse, please plug both keyboard and mouse into USB 2.0 ports (black) not the USB3 ports as USB 3.0 works only after Windows driver is installed.

Is the BIOS set to its default values? Try clearing the CMOS (CMOS reset) with the PSU unplugged from the AC outlet via the MB Manual's or MB Maker's FAQ procedure.

Try an External build (be sure to click "See full content" in JSC's original post), tear it down to a minimal functioning system, lay the main board (helps if speaker connected to front header or embedded on MB for beep codes; or if any diagnostic LEDs, LCD are present) on a piece of plain brown cardboard or other non-conducting surface with only a Keyboard (plugged into a USB2 or PS/2 port), one stick of RAM, CPU, HSF, PSU and monitor to rule out shorts as well as bad components. [Temporarily use onboard graphics if available; otherwise use your video card.]

Switch RAM stick and slot location. Keep seeing if your minimal system works.

If stable, then add one component back to the system at a time. This will rule out components and maybe rule in the defective part. If you have any known working parts that can temporarily substitute this is a good time to try them one at a time.

Often the mere act of pulling the system apart and reassembling it will make a good contact with a previously not completely seated part and result in a functioning system.

Please list all your specific components so we can better assist with your dilemma. [List specific make and model number for every component in system and attached to system and don't forget the case. If this PC is from a major PC builder, list the make, full model and complete model number too. List BIOS version too. Don't forget any parts you upgraded or are trying to install. Links are greatly appreciated as they remove part ambiguity and why should we have to look them up? Be sure to include the full OS version and bit and service pack installed.]

[h/t GmsCool]

---------------------------------

If that fails, this link provides a comprehensive list of what to do when the new PC won't post:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/26114 ... o-problems

Good planning before buying and assembly hopefully keeps most people from needing this guide. (h/t jimmthang)

Completely dead? No LEDs glowing or fans initially trying to spin? Try the paperclip test on the PSU (testing protocol).


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