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 Post subject: Cutting the PSU MOBO wires
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2004 4:15 pm 
8086
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Just wondering if anyone else has actually gone through the trouble of cutting the PSU wires for the connectors on the mobo?

Mostly for looks, but I didn't like the idea of overly long wires cluttering up my space.

I got a P4 rig and got rid of the 24 pin connector, shortened the 20 pin connector to around 6 inches, taped the 4 pin connector down to around 5, and then wrapped everything with black flagging tape and used liquid electrical tape to hold in place. Looks freaky with blue ide cables.

Also anyone know how to get the female atx connectors for the mobo connections? It really blows having to reuse them!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2004 11:15 am 
Willamette
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why not cut a connect them back? like take out a chunk?


a little heat-shrink tube and sleeving will make it so you cant see the cuts.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2004 5:26 pm 
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If I understand what you're saying, I've done the same thing. There were some connectors on my old Antec PS that I didn't want dangling around, so I snipped them. I sealed off the ends first with liquid electrical tape, then I shrinkwrapped the end of each wire. I haven't gotten brave and/or knowledgable enough yet to mess with the actual 20 pin connector that goes the the MB, but I have cut down the 4 pin 12v connector.

No sparks yet!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2004 10:55 am 
Willamette
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Umajet wrote:
If I understand what you're saying, I've done the same thing. There were some connectors on my old Antec PS that I didn't want dangling around, so I snipped them. I sealed off the ends first with liquid electrical tape, then I shrinkwrapped the end of each wire. I haven't gotten brave and/or knowledgable enough yet to mess with the actual 20 pin connector that goes the the MB, but I have cut down the 4 pin 12v connector.

No sparks yet!


just make sure to unplug the PSU for a couple days.

keep eash wires seperate so they dont touch


as long as you can solder well, it should work fine

TEST WITH ANOTHER SYSTEM, NOT YOUR MAIN ONE


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2004 2:28 pm 
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Cool... but to clear things up. I reused the metal atx connectors from the 24 pin and 20 pin connections. What I did was clipped and stripped connection by connection, wire by wire, until the 24 pin connector was gone and what i had left was a 20 pin connection about 6 inches long.

I did cut the old flat p4 connector off and use liguid electrical tape to seal the ends. And then wraped the nub with the flagging tape.

To note: It's a pain in the ass and took about 6 hours. If you do try it get the special tools needed, and see if you can buy a crapload of the metal connectors that actually hook into the plastic 20 or 24 pin connector.

Hope that is a little more clear.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 12:56 pm 
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I've done this, and went the "easy route" for a while. I used to plug the wires were I wanted them to go, then cut the wires to fit right. I just soldered and heat-shrunk the areas I cut into. I also cut at different spots because doing the cuts at the same place made an ugly bulge or hump with all the heatshrink bundled in one spot. Once I got them right, I covered them in sleeving.

But I've recently got smart and cut the connectors at the terminating end and put the contacts and connector on the end so it looks like I never touched it. It's the best way to do this IMO. The pin-tool is cheap (comes with some of the aftermarket molex connectors) and just looks right. Really shortens the time and labot required too! I have no idea why I did the cutting and soldering before...

I also do it on the other connectors, but not until I'm sure I'm not adding or moving any parts for a while. It makes it a pain in the arse if you custom fit HDD leads and decide to move it to another bay at some point. It turns what was a 20 minute job into a half-day affair:p


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 6:29 pm 
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Sweet! Cool to hear someone else has been brave! You got a point with the whole bulge thing. First time always sucks. I have also finally found a way to buy the Female Atx wire crimps. I don't know if the site still sells em though. I don't know because its too late for me to buy em now. But here it is for those who are interested.

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/247352


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 6:45 pm 
Willamette
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viper2two wrote:
Sweet! Cool to hear someone else has been brave! You got a point with the whole bulge thing. First time always sucks. I have also finally found a way to buy the Female Atx wire crimps. I don't know if the site still sells em though. I don't know because its too late for me to buy em now. But here it is for those who are interested.

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/247352


the link didnt work for me, but you can buy PSU units that have detachable connections, so you can use only as many as you need


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 6:58 pm 
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BiggPa wrote:
the link didnt work for me, but you can buy PSU units that have detachable connections, so you can use only as many as you need


Yes, gparmar76 (ACE) gets credit for this particular link:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozen ... d=R6cPCjZo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:00 pm 
Willamette
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One4yu2c wrote:
BiggPa wrote:
the link didnt work for me, but you can buy PSU units that have detachable connections, so you can use only as many as you need


Yes, gparmar76 (ACE) gets credit for this particular link:
http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozen ... d=R6cPCjZo


holy crap. that is NICE...the one i was talking about i saw at my local Fry's

its short connectors, and detachable longer ones...that one is way nicer


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 5:49 am 
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sorry bout the link it appears i missed a zero.

try this.

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/2473520


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 11:50 am 
Willamette
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viper2two wrote:
sorry bout the link it appears i missed a zero.

try this.

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/2473520



ah. so you are planning to cute the wire and use new ends for molex connection. it should work

you might also want to invest in a molex remover tool.


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