Like the drinking stuff?? LOL...I never even thought about that. Hey, it's worth a shot. I don't have anything to measure Ph here, but I see pond supply stores are offering kits for about $16. I WILL want to try this thought! Next rig is undecided between CC tubes or placed LED's, so I may need to start watching this.
And I forgot all about general CC tubes. I have a UV rig and not a colored CC unit, so that may be a reason why I'm running clean.
And as far as corrosion, the WW stuff has inhibitors to prevent the bi-metallic corrosion.
So, that article posted above in this thread is one of the best OC focused articles I have seen. The author was thurogh and I only found one error (a bad pH measurement - minor). You should check it out.
I was very surprised when I looked and found AquaFina as the best readily available drinking water based on TDS (it has 110) and then the article says the same (if he used drinking water).
He recommends Distilled water (DS not DI) and I would have to agree. Most distilled water has slightly better pH and if its steam distilled it has been demineralized (for the most part). I should have thought about that. Most of the water you buy at the store is DS. Since it seems folks are going to add stuff to it anyways, I don't see the benefit of the added TDS in AquaFina (and it costs more). I was surprised to see such a high pH for the WW + Water he got. I bet its closer to 8.2 (a standard buffered pH IIRC). Either way, that's great for corrosion control. His DI water pH measure is wrong, but its common for DI pH to give bad numbers. Good DI is so clean and unbuffered that the contaminates on the pH electrode will change the pH in the sample (unless you use a huge volume). His real reading should have been 5.5 - 6.5, certainly less than 7. Rain water has a pH of less than 7.
Anyways, very interesting article. I will go thank whoever posted it.