I just checked the link you provided for the memory you bought; to be honest, that stuff is probably only one notch above JUNK. Trust me on this; I've bought my share of cheap memory over the years, and DDR is not a good memory type to try to save a few dollars with.
Even worse, you only get a ninety-day warranty; Crucial, Corsair, Kingston, and all of the other reputable companies give you a limited lifetime warranty, and that alone should tell you all you need to know about that cheap stuff.
This is the direct link to the Crucial website for the RAM you need:
I also checked the Corsair website, http://www.corsair.com
, but they don't show a listing for the A7S333 motherboard...
Then, I called the friend I gave the A7S333 board to; he started out with the cheapest RAM he could buy, and none of it worked, so he finally bought quality RAM from Crucial (the same RAM I'm recommending to you), and told me he hasn't had a single problem with it.
As it turns out, Crucial sells three different 512MB DIMMs for your A7S33 motherboard; one type is rated for 266MHz, one type is rated for 333MHz, and the other type is rated for 400MHz. The DDR266 / DDR2100 DIMMs normally sell for $68.99, the others normally sell for $63.99, but the DDR266 DIMMs are on sale right now for $62.09, while the other two are on sale for only $57.59. I realize that is $7.60 (each) more than you paid for the cheap RAM, but I consider that to be a bargain, when you factor in the lifetime warranty and the excellent customer support Crucial provides. Even better, Crucial is offering free shipping within the lower 48 states on all orders over $40.00. You might have to pay sales tax, but you probably had to pay tax on the cheap RAM, so that shouldn't bother you.
Look at it this way; for $116 to $125 (depends on whether or not you have to pay tax), you can get RAM which is GUARANTEED to work with your motherboard, as opposed to what you have now, which cost you at LEAST $100, and that was with a crummy 90-day warranty, which I consider to be worthless.
This is the link to the DDR400 / DDR PC3200 DIMMs, which I recommend:
This is the link to the DDR333 / DDR PC2700 DIMMs:
The choice is yours; I want to advise you NOT to buy ANYTHING until you get your system working again, but I don't know how long those sales prices and free shipping offers from Crucial will last.
Now, let's see if we can get your system booting again...
You have to take this by the numbers; do the shutdown procedure I've previously described, then remove the RAM. Remove and replace the videocard, making sure it is fully seated. Use a flashlight to see where the card jacks into the slot; look to see that all of the contacts on the card are held equally in the slot, all along the length of the card. Check to be sure that the clip at the end of the AGP slot (right near the RAM slots) is holding the AGP card securely in place;if not, you need to reseat the card. Don't overlook this step; loose AGP cards can drive you nuts when troubleshooting...
Next, remove the coin-cell battery from the motherboard (which can be tricky), and set it aside for now. The battery might be nearly dead (it is probably three years old by now), but for the time being, set it aside and move on to the next step. That Asus motherboard uses the CR-2032 battery (the most common coin-cell used today); it won't hurt to buy a new one. Rip-You-Off Shack has them for less than five bucks, so that shouldn't break you...
Check the monitor cable; look at the connector on the end of the cable (where it attaches to the videocard). Look for broken or bent pins; don't worry if some are missing, because CRT monitors don't use all of the pins to carry signals, so some connectors don't provide all 15 pins. OTOH, broken pins are a pain to repair (yes, I've done it; it isn't brain surgery, but my background is in electronics), though you can usually straighten bent pins with a small pair of needle-nose pliers, though you must be CAREFUL when doing this, or you can destroy the pin, and then you're no better off than you would be if the pin was broken. If it looks good, reattach the cable to the videocard; if not, tell us what seems to be wrong, and someone will advise you on how to deal with it.
Now, replace the ORIGINAL DIMM into the primary DIMM slot, which is the one closest to the CPU; as it turns out, I knew I still had the .PDF file for the A7S333 manual on one of my older systems, so I cheated and looked at it. I've saved a LOT of manuals in .PDF format over the years...
BTW, thanks to my Folding teammate, bigtoyota479, for providing the direct link to the .PDF file for the manual; I'm sure that some other people who find this thread will appreciate it.
Next, remove the ATX power cable from the motherboard; look for burned or damaged pins on the connector. If everything looks OK, plug the connector back into the motherboard, and make sure it is fully seated. The plastic clip should lock the connector into place, so push firmly until you feel or hear it click into position.
Once you've done all of that, replace the coin-cell battery, and try to boot the system again. If all goes well, you'll be back in business; if not, let us know. It would be good if you could buy a new CR-2032 battery, just in case yours is kaput; you can test the original with a multi-meter, if you have one, and I'm sure someone at R-Y-O Shack will be glad to test it for you if you don't have a multimeter.
Good luck; let us know what happens when you've done this.