Cooler Master Launches V1200 80 Plus Platinum Power Supply



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You left out the most important and highest power consumers in a computer system: CPU and GPU. A stock clocked CPU can easly use in access of 90 Watts and over 200 Watts when overclocking. A stock GTX780 uses 250 Watts. You get the idea. These factors are important because the power supply you buy will need to have overhead in order to provide adequate and stable power for at least 2-3 years.

My concern is that you ranted so much about how overkill it is to buy a power supply that is rated higher than the average power consumpution of a computer, yet you failed to provide any information on what power supply you are using for your system.

So, what games exactly are you playing with a single GTX780 running at 6000 x 1200 surround resolution? And what are your graphics settings at and what kind of frame rates are you getting?

And your motherboard is "Some Fancy ASUS Gaming "z-series" motherboard". Wow. I can tell you are truly a PC enthusiast...NOT.



The CPU, GPU AND PSU were all listed, you might need some reading glasses. What is your major malfunction here Ninja?

Seriously the EXACT graphics card man, that's your attack ... how pathetic has this become for you?

EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Dual FTW Graphics Card with ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384-Bit 03G-P4-3784-KR

How absurd is that to type out?! And totally NOT relevant in the grand scheme of this discussion, another 10-20-watts when we're talking about a 1200-watt PSU. You need to take a breath and a few steps back man.

Then an insult that because I didn't want to open my case to get the exact motherboard ID number makes me 'not an enthusiast" ... , you're just being a jerk. I hope you feel big now. What a stretch at something I wrote that was "wrong" ... sad panda.

ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77

And again, this is irrelevant to the topic. All one really needs to know is that it's an enthusiast-level non-server motherboard and as such tends to require a bit more power than a vanilla board.

Then which video games I'm running, as if they will somehow make more of a power-draw?! Where do you come up with this stuff?

Elder Scrolls Online, 100% of all settings the highest they will go. Draw distance 62. Dirt 3, 100% of all settings the highest they will go. Frames per second, AGAIN not relevant to the power-consumption talk here when you already know that the graphics system is accounting for such a huge number of pixels. For sake of your absurd request the FPS fluctuate from 50 to 60 in ESO and between 35 and 60 in Dirt 3. Those numbers are entirely dependent on other concurrent tasks my PC might be doing - serving media to other systems in the house, recording TV, closing out said recordings, converting said recordings to MPEG4, commercial detection, web browsers open/refreshing, other minimized background applications, maybe a minimized Blender or Photoshop window, music playing via any media player (let me guess, you're going to ask which media player, and if the settings are at max?)... lol

Maybe lay off the attack button for a while.

I'm trying to have a logical discussion about what's REALLY needed, what the most efficient use of our different power requirements actually are, and what the aftermarket PC building industry would like us to believe we SHOULD buy. These aren't all the same solution. The efficiency ratings aren't much good under 20% load, and 20% load for 1200 watts is 240-watts. So there may be an inefficiency there given certain hardware.

You're about to ask the brands, size, and average RMPs of the fans though, right?


The Mac


im guessing you meant to reply to someone rather than post a new comment.

anyone in particular?



That's that troll Obsidian all peed off because he forgot to include crucial information in his original post and is only mad now because I poked holes in his malicious logic.



Ninja I'm very far from mad, but you have to realize that Mac was replying to YOUR post, not mine. Maybe the internet thing is too hard for you?



Cooler Master is late to the party - again. Seasonic has had the Hybrid on-the-fly fan switch capability for over two years now. The Seasonic SS-1200XP3 is a much better power supply IMHO due to the use of higher quality Japanese capacitors, fan, and fan controller. And the real killer is the price. The SS-1200XP3 costs only $269.99 ( compared to the overpriced CM V1200 (over $400). This makes the choice of which power supply to buy that much easier...Seasonic FTW!! ;)



Digital Storm Bolt II == 500-watts (i7 4770k oc@ 4.5, Titan Black)

Falcon Northwest Tiki == 450-watts (i7 4770k, Titan Black)

MSI's GS70 Slealth Pro (gaming laptop) == 150-watt power adapter

Example 4, 5, 6 etc...

What kind of hardware do you have to run to justify a 1200-watt power supply?

That's at least SLI, but aren't most 850-watt units able to easily run any 2-card SLI?

Is this just for the people running 3 graphics cards?

I understand that larger numbers has often lead to larger e-genitals, but isn't there some diminishing returns on these flagship power units? How much power are you wasting running this thing in idle mode? There has to be an efficiency curve of some sort.

Does anyone have over a 1000-watt power supply? Do you know how much power you are using just browsing this page, and then how much you are using while gaming/bit-coin-mining/rendering-complicated-video-sequences?

An excessive power supply isn't as cool to look as an excessive sports car :/



It's designed for running 3-4 video cards (hence the 12 PCI Express connectors). The platinum rating includes a low-power idle draw --the unit has to be at least 90% efficient when running at 10% of its rated capacity.



Thanks Tom, I think we need a white paper on this. Even at 10% or under rated capacity, when idle, will a 1200watt platinum PSU use less or more power than a 1000 watt platinum PSU, how about an 800 platinum rated unit (given the same hardware and temperature).

It would be educational at least.


The Mac

Sorry to correct you Tom, but thats 90% at 20% capcity, not 10%.

gold is 87% at 20% capacity by way of comparison

Titanium is the only rating that has a 10% requirement.



Ah, thanks, I got them mixed up. I even had the chart in front of me, too.


The Mac

Its all good...

Has anyone even seen a titanium rated ps?



It's about efficiency dude. You can easily push a 850 up to higher thresholds, problem is, you lose that platinum rating or whatever you paid for, dumps a lot of heat to boot.

Plus a lot of people have more than just those few parts the machines you listed above have, they have LED, fans with LEDS, LOTS of them. Controllers, usb devices take power too, lots of HDD's or optical drives (Lord knows why anyone still uses ODD's) Watercooling etc, crossfire is pretty common being it works with most games without a fuss. There is good reason to have a big PSU, and not having to push it so hard is a big part of it.



There is so much wrong with your post I don't even know where to start. Kind of feel like you're tolling the comments ;)

The platinum rating is about efficiency dude. There was nothing in my post questioning the power certification level of this unit. One can not just loose a rating (head shake)...

Case fans draw 1.6 to 10-watts depending on how over-the-top they are. LED-lit fans use NO more significant power draw than those without lights, unless it's a CFL bulb or neon or UV cfl, in which case, welcome to 1998, it's time to ditch those 80mm fans.

A 5-meter spool of 300 LED light bulbs often used for fancy cove lighting in home theaters uses about 25-watts of power.

Spinning hard drives use 6 to 10 watts of power.

An SSD drive uses less than a watt to run.

Optical disk drives use up to 25-watts of power when spinning/burning.

Motherboards draw anywhere from 6 to 20 watts of power (including the RAM)

Water Pumps usually use about 20-watts of power.

USB 2.0 standard power rating max load is 2.5 watts

USB 3.0 standard power rating max load is 4.5 watts

Crossfire and SLI are the same thing, exact same concept, just different brands and different execution; AMD and Nvidia respectively.


Maybe someone else will take some time to learn something about power draw voltage/amperage/wattage ... or we can get an electrical engineer to correct my admitted approximations to make everything wattage-based in this post.

For the computing world this could be an awesome power supply, but would likely be tossing energy out the window due to under-use.



Just because you have a high end 1200 Watt power supply does not mean it uses all of that power all the time. Case in point, I have a 1200 Watt power supply that replaced a 4-year old 1500 Watt power supply and they both use about the same amound of power at idle (~235 Watts) and when under full load while gaming (~785 Watts). No energy is "tossed out the window" other than the percentage that is lost to the conversion. This loss of power is based upon the efficiency rating. The higher the efficiency, the lower the loss of converted power.

The single biggest mistake beginner computer builders make is that they underestimate the rating of the power required to run their system not just at the beginning, but over time as well. Choosing a more powerful PSU allows not only provides overclocking headroom for your CPU and GPUs, but also buys longevity over the next several years. Power supplies degrade over time and lose their efficiency. Having a higher rating allows for you to use that PSU for a longer period of time before having to replace it.

Power efficiency ratings are awarded according to efficiency by percentage of load on the PSU and temperature. Most PSUs receive their rating based upon 50% load at 50 Celsius. WIth this in mind, you are never supposed to buy a power supply based upon it's maximum power load capability, but by it's 50% load capability since that this where you will attain the greatest amount of efficiency. Doing this also guarantees you have 'built-in' headroom for your PSU to last for several years until it has to be replaced (unless it fails due to defect).

Use this link to get a better understanding of what rating a power supply would be needed for a specific computer build and don't forget to set the capacitor aging to 30%...that makes a huge difference! Also, play around with the System load (defaulted at 90%) and you will see just how much a difference it makes in what power supply you get:


Righteous Fury

Damn, Obsidian... I think I can actually hear his tears hitting the floor!



I think not - Obsidian made several mistakes in his response...



Where did I say it was using 1200watts of power all the time. Seems as though you're inventing argument high-ground.

Power efficiency at lower percentage use (of the overall total power output) is often much lower than the certification of the power supply. So yeah, there's wasted power that goes 'out the window' when using a 1200watt unit vs something smaller while measured under 20% capacity.

I'm using a Corsair AX 850, Gold Certified power supply. It's been in service for about 2 years now so there has been some efficiency drift, as well as with the computer it's powering. The kill-a-watt claims my system is sucking down 245 watts of power while typing this message, this includes the three Dell 24-inch professional-series (one LED-lit, two are CFL-lit) monitors that are running off the same Cyber Power UPS.

When gaming across all 3 monitors at 6000x1200 resolution the system (including the monitors) takes 490 watts.

Core i7-2600K 3.40GHz
16 GB RAM (4 sticks x4GB @1800)
Windows 7 Pro, 64 bit
Nvidia 780 GTX (EVGA blah blah blah version)
Boot Drive SSD - 128
FOUR mechanical hard drives all spun up for this power test
SEVEN 120mm to 140mm 'case' fans all spinning
3 Hauppauge 2250 dual-tuner-TV-cards (admittedly not doing anything at the time of power testing)
Two mice (one wireless)
Two keyboards (one for Blender use)
Logitech G13 Game Pad thing
Audio Technica USB mic
Some Fancy ASUS Gaming "z-series" motherboard

My point was that most people don't use multi-graphics-card set ups, so, most people have no need for so much power. I am also over my optimal power point but I tend to push my systems through 4 to 5 years of consistent use and two graphics card upgrades. I planned for that headroom and for the potential to use whatever 'old' graphics card as a PhysX engine. That graphics configuration didn't pan out to be much of a benefit so I ditched it.

Although I did admit I still have much to learn and I might have made some mistakes, you never pointed out what those were. .... meh