I’ve been contemplating purchasing a 120Hz monitor for some time. After reading the May 2010 review of the Acer GD235HZ, this now looks like more of a possibility. I currently have a GeForce 275 GTX, and my understanding is that in order to take advantage of the 120Hz, I need to connect to the monitor with dual-link DVI. However, will this 120Hz monitor do for games what 120Hz has done for movies and TVs? Does it deliver that same crisp image that makes it feel like you are right there with the cast? Also, would a streaming service, such as Slingbox, have that same feeling if I’m steaming at HD speeds (2Mb/s+)?
I have two 1GB DIMMs of DDR/400 installed on an Intel D875PBZ mobo. The board has four slots, and I have the DIMMs arranged in dual-channel mode. I have double-checked it and I have one DIMM in channel A, slot 0 and one DIMM in channel B, slot 0. About once a week, every few restarts, the machine reboots with the error saying that the RAM amounts have changed. When I check, it shows each DIMM as 512MB instead of 1GB. On occasion, it will show the correct amount, but it will be in single-channel mode only! Keep in mind, I swapped in these 1GB DIMMs recently from a pair of 512MB DIMMs. I tried updating the BIOS but have had no success at all.
I have four hard drives I use for storage. One of my drives is a 1TB WD Caviar Green. A folder named “35c7b77f9e7bab635e2efb4b74b9” keeps appearing, with a file “MPMiniSigStub.exe” and a bunch of files with names like “1.81.790.0_to_1.81.799.0_mpasdlta.vdm._p.” When I delete the folder a new one with a similar randomly generated name appears in its place, with similar files in it. I scanned with Malwarebytes’ Anti-Malware, Norton 360 4.0, and Microsoft Security Essentials; none of them detected anything bad. I have also “hidden” the folder, but it reverts back to non-hidden status.
Read the Doctor's advice for Kevin after the jump.
I’ve been considering building a Windows Home Server. My problem is that I have three 1.5TB hard drives with media on them. Can I move these drives to a Windows Home Server machine without formatting them? They are currently formatted in NTFS on a Win 7 machine. I have everything for the home server except the case and power supply. I also have a 40GB hard drive that I had planned to install the Home Server software on. I don’t have the money to buy new drives to transfer the media from the other drives. Also, will I be able to stream .vob and Blu-ray files to Media Center on my other machines?
Read the Doctor's advice for Michael after the jump.
I have a Netgear WNDR3300 dual-band router that broadcasts both 802.11g and 802.11n signals. Today, I noticed that in certain areas of my house, the 802.11g signal is actually stronger than my 802.11n signal, by a lot! Shouldn’t this be the other way around? Currently, the router sits atop a bookcase in my basement as I don’t have anywhere to put it upstairs. The signal comes from a cable modem and is attached to a Windows 7 Pro 64-bit computer. What gives?
Read the Doctor's answer for Brian after the jump.
I am using Windows 7 Home Premium and I have found that there is no longer an AutoRun option that permits the automatic startup of USB flash drives that contain software. I am particularly referring to flash drives that contain portable operating systems such as Portable Apps or SanDisk U3 Launchpad. The user is now presented with a prompt that permits viewing the files and double-clicking the application to be executed.
Is there a registry hack that I can use to restore the AutoRun feature for USB flash drives that contain applications?
My PC is in my home office and my home theater system is in my living room about 30 feet away. I like to listen to jazz but my local jazz radio station changed format so I started listening to jazz streamed over the Internet on my PC. I would like to stream this music to my home theater system. I already have a CAT-6 cable strung from my router to the DVR in my living room for on-demand TV. I’ve tried to sort through all the streaming devices available but have only managed to be confused and overwhelmed by the features and specifications. I wouldn’t mind streaming video too, but that is not my priority. A unit that will play Blu-ray discs is an acceptable option as all I have on my home theater system is CD/DVD, but, again, that is not a priority. Can you suggest some viable options for me? Thanks a heap!
Read the Doctor's advice for David after the jump.
I have what I thought was a simple question, but I can’t seem to find a definitive answer. I have an Asus P6T Deluxe motherboard and a Core i7-930 CPU. Should I use my PSU’s 8-pin or 4-pin connector for the CPU?
Read the Doctor's answer for Craig after the jump.
I have a system with anti-virus and anti-spyware software installed. I also made a backup image with Acronis True Image some time ago. Now, somehow it got a bad malware infection that nothing can remove completely. The usual method is to reformat and reinstall Windows, but what if I use a clean image from Acronis to restore my system? Can that be done? Will it get rid of all the malware, or will some be left behind?
I have a problem with my second DVD drive: Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. My system is a home-built Biostar TA790GXB A2+ motherboard with an AMD Athlon II X2 250 running at 3GHz, a GeForce GTS 250 videocard, 8GB of RAM, two 500GB Hitachi hard drives, and Windows 7 32-bit, with all the required updates installed. There is also an LG CH08LS10 SATA Blu-ray ray drive (assigned drive F by Windows).
Now to the problem: drive E. Sometimes it runs, sometimes it doesn’t, and there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes it starts fine, recognizing DVDs or CDs and burning DVDs and CDs as necessary, and runs well all day. Sometimes it starts and won’t even recognize any CD or DVD (to read or to burn) I put in it—and won’t all day.
Originally, I had installed an LG SATA DVD drive. When it acted up as described above, I replaced it with a BenQ DW 1640 from my old computer. It’s an IDE drive. Same thing happened. No problem with the Blu-ray drive.
So, there you have it. Two different drives, using different controllers on the motherboard but malfunctioning the same way. Any ideas? Does Win7 think people shouldn’t have more than one, or more than one type of, burner? Is there some jumper I should be moving or software setting I’m missing? Did I just find a Win7 bug?