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How to Build Your Own 3D Camera Rig for Under $20

Eric Kurland — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:00:00 -0600

How Does Stereoscopic 3D Photography Work?

Stereoscopic 3-D photography has been around almost as long as photography itself. In the 1830s Sir Charles Wheatstone theorized that we see the world in three dimensions because our eyes are set about 2.5 inches apart, and see from two slightly different viewpoints. You can test this by holding your thumb at arms length. Close one eye and look at your thumb, then look with just the other eye, and you will see that there is a deviation, or parallax, between what your eyes see. Your brain fuses these two views together, interpreting the amounts of parallax as depth. This is called binocular stereopsis.

Wheatstone figured out that two cameras could be placed side-by-side and take simultaneous pictures, creating a pair of photographs from both left eye and right eye perspectives. When viewed through a stereoscope, the left eye only sees the left image, the right eye only sees the right image, and we perceive a single 3-D view.

The author's 3D photos from Comic-Con

Throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries, stereo photos were all the rage, with many thousands of stereo cards produced. In fact, many Victorian era homes kept a stereoscope as the centerpiece of their living rooms - sort of the entertainment center of the day. Still, the process of making 3-D images was very complicated, as it was necessary to have two synchronized cameras to take the pictures, and quite a bit of skill to align and mount the finished prints or slides for viewing. Over the years, a number of film cameras have been made with dual optics and shutters, specifically for stereography, but these still require a great deal of meticulous work by the photographer in order to properly align pictures for display.

Do-It-Yourself 3D

The 21st century has seen a resurgence in the popularity of stereography, or 3D imagery, and thanks to the availability of inexpensive digital cameras and photo-processing software, do-it-yourself 3D imagery is now possible.

The simplest method for taking a 3D photo requires just a single camera, and a stationary subject. Place your feet firmly on the ground, with your weight on your left foot, and take a picture. Shift your weight to your right foot and take a second picture. You now have a stereo pair of images, one for the left eye and one for the right eye, which can be viewed in 3D. Obviously, this technique, called “sidestep” or “cha-cha” 3D, only works for subjects that are not in motion.

To take stereographs of dynamic subjects, we will need to take two photos at exactly the same time. Japanese camera manufacturer Fuji recently released the first digital camera equipped with two lenses for 3D. Of course, for the technologically savvy, you can make your own 3D camera rig using common building materials and two digital cameras.

For this project, we’ll use a pair of matching Canon PowerShot cameras and specialized synchronization software called StereoData Maker, or SDM, which is a nonvolatile firmware upgrade based on CHDK, the Canon Hack Development Kit. SDM adds a set of features to certain Canon cameras, specifically for the taking of 3D pictures.

What You Need

Two Canon PowerShot cameras compatible with SDM (Buy them here)
Two 4GB SD cards
Two right-angle metal brace clips
Two tripod screws or 1/4-inch thumbscrews
Cloth tape or sturdy electrical tape
Metal washers
Two USB cables
Altoids tin
Push-button switch (Buy them here)
Two female USB connectors
Battery holder
Three 1.5V AAA batteries
Hot-glue gun
A Dremel tool
Red/cyan 3D glasses (Buy them here)

Aside from the digital cameras and tools, the core components of the rig won't cost you more than $20! Now it's time to assemble the pieces.

Step 1: Load the SDM Firmware

First, you will need two Canon PowerShot cameras (they don’t need to be the exact same model) and the corresponding StereoData Maker firmware. While SDM isn’t available for all Canon PowerShot models, it does work on a wide variety. A full compatibility list can be found at the Stereomaker.net website. Scan the list for your cameras and download the specific firmware and common_files.zip for each. Unzip both archives to the same directory.

SDM comes with a simple installer program that will format your SD cards and install the SDM files. Run the sdminste.exe executable, insert one of your SD cards into a card reader on your PC and click “new install.” Select whether this flash card will be for the left or right camera and click OK, then follow the onscreen instructions for formatting. Do the same for the other card. Make sure to note which card is for the left camera and which is for the right.

Slide the physical write-protect tab down on the SD cards and insert each into the proper camera. The firmware only loads from the cards when they are in the “locked” position, but the cameras are still able to write photos to them normally.

Step 2: Build the Mounting Rig

The next step is to mount the cameras in a side-by-side orientation. Some hobbyists sell specialized 3D slidebars for two cameras online, but you can make your own. This can be as simple as drilling two holes in a wood ruler and bolting the cameras down with 1/4-inch thumbscrews.

Ideally, you want the lenses of your cameras as close together as possible—about the distance between two human eyes. The best way to do this is with one of the cameras turned upside down. To mount the cameras in this way, we will build something called a z-bar with two right-angle truss clips or braces, which you can buy at any hardware store.

Align the sides of these two bars and fasten them together using heavy cloth tape, leaving the holes along the base exposed. With 1/4-inch thumbscrews, mount a camera onto each clip, using metal washers on each side of the base to make sure you get a tight, level fit. Position the cameras so that the centers of the lenses are as evenly aligned as you can make them. Don’t worry if the alignment isn’t 100 percent perfect, as we can correct the images later in software.

Step 3:Build the USB Switch Remote

One of the functions added by StereoData Maker is synchronization of the cameras’ shutters via a 5-volt pulse sent through their USB ports. This requires that a battery-powered switch be attached to both cameras via USB cables. The Stereomaker.net website contains several varying schematics for this synch controller circuit.

The simplest to assemble uses a pair of USB connectors with both pins 1 wired to a button, and both pins 4 wired to a negative battery terminal. The batteries’ positive terminal connects to the other contact on the button, so that when it is pressed, it completes the circuit to both cameras. The cameras need to receive a 4.5- to 5-volt pulse, so you can use a combination of three 1.5V AAA batteries.

You can build this circuit into any small enclosure, such as an Altoids tin, which has a hinged lid for easy access. We found female USB connectors, battery holders, soldering supplies, and push-buttons online at Allelectronics.com.

Cut openings into the side of the Altoids tin to fit the two USB ports and glue the ports in place. Drill a hole in the face of the enclosure for the push-button as well. On the battery holder, connect the positive battery wire to one contact on the button switch, and carefully solder the negative battery wire to pin 4 on both USB ports. Solder a short wire from pin 1 on both USB ports to the other contact on the button. You can use the USB cables that are supplied with the cameras to connect them to your synch controller. Alternatively, you can hardwire USB cables to the controller in place of the connectors. If this step seems too daunting, there are links on the StereoData Maker website to sources that sell pre-assembled USB switches.

Step 4: Shoot Your Photos

Once you have the hardware assembled and the StereoData Maker firmware installed onto the SD cards, you are ready to start shooting 3D pictures. Power up both cameras and wait for the SDM splash screen to appear. You can access the SDM menus by briefly pressing the “direct print” button to put the camera into <alt> mode, followed by the menu button.

The SDM menus contain numerous options for both beginners and more advanced stereo photographers. For now, we will just check to ensure that the USB synchronization is turned on. Make sure that any settings you adjust on the left camera are also changed on the right camera. Press the “direct print” button again to exit the SDM menu.

The left photo

You can now set your cameras up as you normally would to take a photo, adjusting the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture identically on both cameras. Press and hold the button on your USB switch to auto-focus. When both cameras are ready, their blue LEDs will light up. Release the USB button and both cameras fire simultaneously, capturing your stereo pair.

A general rule of thumb for taking good 3D photos is that the distance between the rig and your subject should be at least 30 times the distance between your two lenses. In other words, if your lenses, measured from center to center, are 2.5 inches apart, you should be at least 75 inches, or about 6 feet, away from your subject.

The right photo

Step 5: Process Your Photos

Now that you have taken a pair of images, it’s time to look at them in 3D. To do this, the two images need to be aligned and put into a format suitable for 3D viewing. While this can be done with general image-processing programs such as Adobe Photoshop, most stereographers prefer a specialized freeware application called StereoPhoto Maker.

Begin by downloading and installing the StereoPhoto Maker program. Remove the SD cards from your cameras and copy the contents onto your PC. We recommend organizing your files into subdirectories for left and right images to make it easier to keep track of them. Run the StereoPhoto Maker program and under the File menu, select “open left/right images.” A dialog box will open, asking for the left image. Browse to the folder with the left photos, select a file, and click Open. Do the same for the right-side image, selecting the corresponding picture from the folder with the right-side images. The program will open both files and show you the two pictures side-by-side.

Under the Adjust menu, select “auto color adjustment” to match the tone of the two images. Next, select “auto alignment,” and StereoPhoto Maker runs an algorithm that corrects for misalignments between the cameras, and sets the stereo window based on the nearest point in the shot. Once the auto-alignment is finished processing, you can put on your red/cyan 3D glasses, select a color anaglyph mode from the Stereo menu (we prefer Dubois anaglyph, for its color correction), and marvel at the depth in your 3D photo.

If you would like to make more advanced alignments, you can select the easy adjustment mode, and do manual corrections as needed. StereoPhoto Maker will allow you to save your pictures as anaglyphs, parallel, or cross-view pairs, and will even print out a vintage-style stereo card for your Victorian stereoscope.

Additional Resources

Stereo Club of Southern California -- The Los Angeles–based 3D club offers 3D tutorials and information on 3D photography on its website.

3-DIY.com -- The author's website on do-it-yourself 3D.

How-To: Edit RAW Photos on a Budget (or for Free!)

Mark Edward Soper — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 13:30:00 -0600

Why Shoot in RAW Mode?

RAW mode, a feature of virtually all digital SLR cameras and an increasing number of high-end point-and-shoot cameras, enables your camera to capture all of the image data in your photographs in full quality without distortion caused by JPEG data compression. RAW files enable you to repair white balance and color temperature problems, solve exposure problems, and adjust color intensity and other settings far better than you can with JPEG files. Unfortunately, you must use software that supports RAW files to optimize your picture and export it to a format you can use for other purposes, such as JPEG or TIFF.

Thankfully, you don't need to spend a fortune on software to edit RAW images. In this article, we'll put three popular solutions to the test:

Canon Professional Digital Photo
Google Picasa 3.5
Adobe Photoshop Elements with Adobe Camera Raw

Professional Digital Photo and Google Picasa are free, while Adobe Photoshop Elements v8 runs around $80-100. Can you get by with a freebie, or should you cough up some bucks? To answer this question, we turned all three of our contenders loose on discolored, underexposed and overexposed Canon RAW (.CR2) photos taken with a Canon Digital Rebel XTi camera.

Google Picasa 3.5

Google Picasa is easy to download and uses the same interface for editing RAW images as for editing other supported image types (JPEG, TIFF, and so on). Picasa supports most digital camera RAW codecs (see this reference) and is updated frequently as new digital camera RAW file types are introduced.

Locating RAW Images in Picasa

RAW images are displayed in Picasa's image library window the same way as JPEG images. To determine the image type, click the image, and the file extension, size, and other basic properties are shown in the blue bar between the image browser and the action buttons.

Picasa and Automatic Photo Repairs

As soon as Picasa locates photos, including RAW images, it automatically applies fixes to those photos. This is very handy if you don't want to worry about making a lot of changes yourself, but if you don't agree with Picasa's changes, it can be frustrating, since you can't undo automatic fixes.

Fixing Color and Exposure Problems with Basic Fixes

To make manual changes, double-click the photo in the Picasa image library window. Picasa uses three tabs in its editing space. The Basic Fixes tab opens by default. For a quick automatic repair, click I'm Feeling Lucky. Sometimes you're lucky, but in this example, we've traded dark poor color for lighter poor color. Thankfully, you can undo changes made on this tab by clicking the Undo button

Using the Tuning Menu

For greater control over the image, click the Tuning tab. The Tuning tab enables you to use sliders to adjust Fill Light, Highlights, Shadows, and Color Temperature (the third tab, Effects, provides a dozen special effects). By using the Tuning tab, we achieved better color and exposure.

Once you make changes to a RAW file, the changes are stored in Picasa, but the RAW file itself is not changed.

Applying Changes to Multiple RAW Files

If you have a number of RAW images that have the same color temperature (white balance) or exposure problems, or if you want to apply the same special effects to a group of photos, you may want to make the same edits to each photo. Here's how Picasa does it.

1. Select the fixes desired from the Basic Fixes, Tuning, and Effects tab.

2. Click Edit, Copy All Effects.

3. Click Back to Library.

4. Use Shift-click or Ctrl-Click to select similar photos.

5. Click Edit, Paste All Effects.

Unfortunately, because you pasted the effects to the files, the sliders used to adjust exposure, color temperature, and effects do not show the actual settings on the target files.

Saving a JPEG File in Picasa

To create a JPEG file (which can be used for printing, emailing, websites, and so on) from your edited RAW file, click File, Save As, and select JPEG from the pull-down options. Unfortunately, Picasa does not provide options for file size/quality.

Picasa matches the image quality of the original photo, and uses a quality level of 85% when it cannot determine the quality level.

Saving Other File Types

If you need to convert a RAW file into a file type other than JPEG, current versions of Picasa can't do it (this feature was available in earlier versions).

Picasa 3.5 Summary

Pros: Free, supports most cameras that shoot RAW images, easy to use interface

Cons: Automatically makes changes to photos that can't be undone, more limited controls than others, can only export photos in JPEG, can't control JPEG quality levels.

Our take: Use Picasa 3.5 if it's all you have, but you'll probably be happier with your camera vendor's RAW image editor, or with Adobe Photoshop Elements with Camera RAW.

Canon Digital Photo Professional

Canon actually provides two ways to edit RAW files: ZoomBrowser EX and Digital Photo Professional. ZoomBrowser EX is clumsy, provides very limited editing features of RAW files only through an additional Canon-provided program called RAW Image Task, and is excruciatingly difficult to update. Our advice, after trying both: use Digital Photo Professional instead. You can install it from the CD packaged with your Canon camera, or download it from the Canon website.

Using Digital Photo Professional to Edit RAW Files

Digital Photo Professional (DPP) bears a striking resemblance to Adobe Lightroom. And, you can consider it a sort of "junior Lightroom" for Canon RAW files. Here's how to get started:

1. Open DPP

2. Select a RAW image created by a Canon camera (.CR2 or .CRW).

3. Click Tool to open the Tool palette.

4. From the RAW tab, use sliders to adjust brightness, white balance, picture style, contrast, color tone, saturation, and sharpness.

6. Use the RGB tab to adjust tone curves for RGB or separate channels, brightness, contrast, hue, saturation, and sharpness.

7. Use the NR tab to adjust noise reduction.

8. Click Tool to close the Tool palette.

Note: If you prefer to work with full-screen images, double-click the image in Step 2.

Using DPP to Save Changes to a RAW File

1. After editing a RAW file, click File, Save As.

2. Navigate to a different location if desired.

3. If you don't choose a different location and you don't want to overwrite the original file, enter a new name for the file.

4. Click Save.

5. A new RAW file is saved to the specified location.

6. If you have selected multiple files (see "Processing Multiple Files" for details), you will be prompted to save each additional file.

Saving a RAW Image as a Different File Type

1. Click File, Convert and Save.

2. The saved file uses the same name as the original file. Enter a different name if desired.

3. Select the image type (Exif-JPEG is standard; you can also select 8-bit or 16-bit TIFF, with or without JPEG image).

4. If you select an output option that includes JPEG, the image quality defaults to 10 (best). To decrease file size (and reduce quality), use the slider to select a smaller value (1 is smallest/worst quality).

5. Select the desired resolution.

6. Click Save.

7. The file is converted and saved.

Processing Multiple Files with DPP

To work with multiple files in DPP, you can choose from several methods.

Interactive Processing

1. Click each file you want to process to select it.

2. Click a check mark (check 1, check 2, or check 3).

3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all files you want to process have been marked with the same check mark.

4. Click Edit, Select Check Mark x Images Only (x=1, 2, or 3).

5. Click Tool to open the Tool palette.

6. Make adjustments as needed using the RAW, RGB, and NR tabs.

7. Save or convert each file as desired, using File, Save As or File, Convert and Save.

Create a "Recipe" for File Editing

DPP also enables you to create a "recipe" from an edited file and apply it to other, similar files.

1. Make the changes as desired to the photo.

2. Right-click the photo.

3. Click Save Recipe in File.

4. By default, the name of the photo is used as the name for the recipe (.vrd) file. Enter a different name if desired.

5. Navigate to a different folder if desired (recipes are stored in the same folder as the source photo by default).

6. Click Save to save the recipe.

Applying a Recipe to a Different File

1. Select the file you want to apply a recipe to.

2. Click Edit, Read and Paste Recipe from File.

3. Select the recipe desired.

4. Click Open.

5. The recipe is applied to the selected file.

To apply a recipe to multiple files, select the files first as discussed in "Interactive Processing" earlier in this article.

Digital Photo Professional Summary

Pros: Free, powerful interface, able to save changes to a RAW file, doesn't make any changes for you, enables you to output both JPEG and TIFF files in a single operation, can save recipes to make the same changes to similar files.

Cons: Need to read the manual (available on the Canon camera CD or online) to learn all features; only works with Canon RAW files.

Our take: If you use Canon cameras that work with RAW files, DPP is a bargain – but read the manual to learn everything it can do.

Adobe Photoshop Elements with Camera Raw

Adobe Photoshop Elements can't work with RAW files unless you use Camera Raw to process the files first. However, once you install Photoshop Elements and Camera Raw, you're ready to work with Raw files. Camera Raw is available from the Adobe website at no charge.

For Windows

For MacOS

Cameras supported by latest Camera RAW version

Using Camera Raw to Edit RAW Files

You can open any RAW file recognized by Camera Raw with Photoshop Elements, once you install the appropriate version of Camera Raw. Here's how to get started:

1. Open a RAW image file from File, Open in Photoshop Elements, or drag the file to the Photoshop Elements window.

2. Camera Raw opens.

3. Use the Basic tab to adjust white balance, color temperature, exposure, fill light, contrast, and other settings.

4. Click the Advanced tab if you need to adjust sharpening or noise reduction.

Using Camera Raw to Create a Digital Negative

Adobe's digital negative (DNG) format provides an industry-standard file format that retains all image information, making it a useful replacement for proprietary RAW files. In fact, a few digital cameras store their RAW files as DNG files. Here's how to save a DNG file with Camera RAW.

1. To create a digital negative (DNG) file, click Save Image.

2. Enter the image name and select other options, then click Save.

Saving a RAW Image as a Different File Type with Camera Raw and Adobe Photoshop Elements

1. After making changes with Camera Raw, click Open File.

2. The file opens in Photoshop Elements.

3. Use File, Save as to save the file as a JPEG, TIFF, PSD, or other file type.

4. If you select JPEG, you will be prompted to select the desired image quality (1-lowest, 12-highest).

5. Click Save to save changes.

Processing Multiple Files with Adobe Camera Raw

To apply the same changes to multiple files, you should open the files at the same time:

1. Select the files you want to edit with Camera RAW.

2. Drag the files to the open Photoshop Elements window.

3. Click Select All to select all files.

4. Use the Basic and Advanced tabs to make editing adjustments as needed.

Adobe Camera Raw Summary

Pros: Great preview, makes most changes with a single interface, works with both Photoshop and Photoshop Elements (which provide the most flexible file output options of any program in this roundup, can make the same changes to multiple files, works with virtually all RAW file types.

Cons: Requires you to buy Photoshop Elements (or Photoshop); if you buy a new camera, you might need to upgrade Photoshop Elements/Photoshop, as the newest Camera Raw versions support only current Photoshop Elements/Photoshop, can't save settings for reuse later.

Our take: If you already use Photoshop Elements (or Photoshop), Camera Raw is a no-brainer; it's also the best of the three solutions if you plan to make a lot of additional changes to your photo afterwards. However, if you are looking only for a RAW converter, your camera vendor's software may be satisfactory – and it's usually free!

Mark Edward Soper is the author of The Shot Doctor: The Amateur's Guide to Taking Great Digital Photos.

How-To: Turn Your Windows 7 PC into a Wireless Access Point

Mark Edward Soper — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:00:00 -0600

If you've ever been in a situation when you absolutely, positively, need to share a network connection wirelessly, and you have a PC with a wireless adapter that runs Windows 7, Connectify (from wireless mesh networking company Nomadio, Inc.) is the answer. Connectify (currently in beta) turns almost any Windows 7 PC with a working wireless network adapter into a fast and secure wireless access point.

What You Need

A PC running Windows 7*
A working wireless adapter**
Software from the Connectify Me website
About 15 minutes of your time

*Connectify works with Windows 7 final and Windows 7 RC

**Update - some Intel network adapters might not work with Connectify - see Paul Lilly's comment below

Getting Started

Navigate to the Connectify Me website and click either the Download Beta button or Beta Test Now shield.
Enter registration information and click Submit.
Click the Click Here to Download Connectify link to download it immediately (instead of waiting for the promised email link which you might, or might not, receive on a timely basis).
Run the 1.41MB installer, and provide UAC information if prompted.
After you sign off on the license agreement, the installer does its work.
Click Next to continue, and click Finish. By default, Connectify will start, and a readme will open in your browser.

Setting Up Connectify

If you don't see the Connectify icon in the notification area, click the up arrow pointer to display additional icons. Click the Connectify icon.

The first time you start Connectify, you will see an error message. That's because Connectify needs you to provide a passphrase. Click the passphrase field and enter the text you want to use. You must enter at least eight characters (up to 32) for your passphrase text (you can display or hide the text as desired). Connectify uses WPA2 AES encryption for maximum security.

By default, Connectify uses Connectify as its SSID. To change the SSID, enter the name you prefer in the WiFi Name field.

If you have more than one connection you can share, select the connection to share from the Internet pull-down menu. You can use Connectify to share a wired connection (which is what I used for this article), or a wireless connection. You need only one wireless adapter to make sharing work, even if you're sharing a wireless connection wirelessly.

Click the Hotspot Off button to turn on the Connectify access point.

Connecting to a Connectify Access Point

Whether you use Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, MacOS, or Linux, connecting to the Connectify software access point uses the same procedures you use to connect to any secure wireless access point that broadcasts its SSID:

Select the SSID used by the network
Enter the passphrase when prompted
Make the connection
Make any firewall or other configuration changes requested by your wireless network client

Once other PCs have connected to the Connectify software access point, Connectify lists the computer(s) connected to it by their network names and IP addresses.

When you shut down the connection, Connectify "remembers" who was connected to the network, listing them as "disconnected clients."

Conclusion

Connectify works - and works well - because it relies upon new networking features built into Windows 7. Right now, Connectify costs nothing to try – and it provides a solid, secure, and fast connection. Whether you're looking for a quick way to share a wired connection in a hotel room or conference center, add wireless capability with Internet access to a home or office wired network, or set up a quick, easy LAN party without fiddling around with your normal network configuration settings, Connectify looks like a winner. It's one of the coolest reasons to move up to Windows 7.

How To: Properly Clean Your PC

Florence Ion — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:00:00 -0500

Every computer collects dust over time. When the computer is running, it creates a field of static electricity, which in turn attracts clumps of dust and hair. These cluttering particles can easily collect around your processor, power supply, and case fans, and can block airflow and lead to overheating. This is why an important part of taking care of a computer is making sure that it’s clean.

To that end, we’ve put together a comprehensive guide on how to clean your computer hardware and peripherals to make your rig look as good as new. We took a 4-year-old computer and thoroughly cleaned it using a few household supplies. All it took was a little bit of patience and a few hours and we managed to get some impressive results. Follow along below to achieve the same cleanliness Zen with your own machine.

And once you're done, read our guide to giving your PC a professional wiring job!

What you need:

Compressed air
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol
Lint-free or microfiber cloths
Paper towels
Q-tips
Scissors
Swiffer Dry Refill sheet
Masking tape
Vacuum with a removable handle and crevice tool

1. Start with Cord Management

First, let’s start with the external cables. Begin by untangling any that have become entwined. Now, grab a soft, microfiber cloth and dampen it with a bit of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then run it along the length of all of your cords to remove any dust that may have built up (image A). Then, grab a few zip ties and begin organizing your cables in terms of their location in your machine: For example, the wires connecting peripherals reside toward the top; the DVI connector and power supply cord are toward the bottom, and so on. This will prevent your cables from getting tangled over time. Don’t group any power cables with speaker wire. Make sure to put on the zip ties toward the middle of the cords to give yourself some flexibility when you disconnect or connect devices (image B). Now, unplug your cable bundles so they’re out of the way while we clean the inside of your machine.

(Image A)

(Image B)

2. Cleaning Your Case

Now, make sure the power supply is turned off, lay your case on its side, and remove the side door. First, you want to inspect the internal data and power cables to make sure they’re all connected and well-fastened (image A). If there are any damaged cables, consider replacing them entirely—do not attempt to fix them with electrical tape. Generally, electrical tape is only used for insulation purposes, not to patch-up wires, and this rule is especially crucial when dealing with the inside of a computer.

(Image A)

Next, you want to get rid of the dust bunnies around your motherboard. Grab a can of compressed air and make sure that the straw is securely inserted. Stand the case upright—when you shoot at it, make sure the can of compressed air stays upright as well (image B). Do not tilt the can on its side or shoot at the computer sideways.

(Image B)

Squeeze the trigger to blast air in the direction of the key components in your case: the crevices in between your fans, the drive bays, connection ports, and any other areas that are plagued by dust and tiny hairs. If you find that you have excess grime or stray dust balls rolling around, you can actually use your vacuum cleaner to deal with them, provided that it’s equipped with a removable handle and a crevice tool. Vacuum away from the motherboard and use it only to eliminate giant dust bunnies that fall to the bottom of the case. Additionally, if you have an air filter in your case, remove it and run it under warm water to remove the dust. Be certain it’s completely dry before re-inserting.

3. Wipe Down Fans

With a different piece of lint-free cloth, wipe down your fan blades, then sprinkle the cloth with a few droplets of 90 or 99 percent rubbing alcohol solution and run it along the inside of your case (image A). Use a Q-tip to clean tight spots like your CPU cooler’s fan blades (image B). When you’re finished and everything has dried, feel free to close up the case.

(Image A)

(Image B)

4. Make Your Own Filter

A great way to keep dust from infiltrating your PC is to create your own air filter using a Swiffer Dry Refill sheet. All you need to do is cut the sheet to fit the grill on the outside frame of your case and affix it with a few pieces of masking tape. In this instance, we pasted it between the outside of the case chassis and the front-frame. Be sure to place this filter only where air is being sucked in and remember to replace it every few months (or as it visibly accumulates dust).

5. Clean Your Mouse

Assuming your cords are still unplugged, dampen a lint-free cloth with rubbing alcohol and clean the outside shell of the mouse, paying attention to any residue on the buttons. It’s important that you exercise caution while cleaning peripherals like an optical mouse—cleaning solutions should never come in contact with the optical sensor at the bottom of the mouse—it could ruin it. Also, avoid using paper towels; stick to lint-free materials so that you don’t risk leaving behind any fluff that could stick to the sensor.

6. Clean Your Keyboard

One easy way to clean gunk out of your keyboard is to turn it upside down over a sink and smack the bottom to knock out the colony of crumbs that have undoubtedly settled in. Run through the keyboard’s spaces with a can of compressed air to get loose crumbs and hairs out of the way, and then use rubbing alcohol and Q-tips to clean grease off the surfaces and in between each key.

For a more thorough wipe-down, you could even stick your keyboard in the dishwasher, though we warn you that this is NOT a solution for expensive keyboards with LCD displays and USB slots—there is also a very real chance that it will destroy your keyboard. Before placing it inside the machine, bundle the cord and put a plastic bag over it, making sure it covers the USB/PS2 plug and that it is securely sealed with a rubber band.

Situate the keyboard on the top rack of the dishwasher so that it is facing down—we want the jets to hit up against the keys and wash off the residue. If your dishwasher has a speed dry cycle, turn it off—if you let the inside get too warm it could warp the plastic or crack the circuit board from thermal expansion. For the first run, we suggest omitting soap altogether, but to remove tougher stains, a pea-size amount of soap is also OK, but use at your own risk. After running it through a light cycle, let the keyboard dry for several days or until all the water has dried before reconnecting it.

7. Clean Your Monitor

Grab a microfiber cloth and gently wipe your screen to free it of dust, fingerprints, and any other smudges. You can make your own screen cleaning solution using a half-and-half mix of 70 percent isopropyl alcohol and distilled water, or you can pick up a premixed solution from any computer store or office supply retailer. Under no circumstances should you use Windex or paper towels to clean an LCD screens, especially those with anti-glare surfaces. If you’re using a CRT, use a few dabs of rubbing alcohol to gently wipe away greasy spots from the screen.

Next: Give your PC a professional wiring job!

Have any PC cleaning tips or dusty PC horror stories? Share in the comments section below!

How To: Use Your Windows 7 Upgrade Disk On a Fresh PC

Justin Kerr — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 10:30:00 -0500

Anyone who tried to install their upgrade version of Windows 7 to a fresh drive was treated to a cruel wake up call. Not when they installed the OS, not even after they installed all their applications, but when the time came to activate. The deal with upgrade media is simple, an existing, and activated copy of Windows must exist on the hard drive prior to installation, or be prepared to start over. To make matters worse, the activation warning doesn't even give you a phone number to call and appeal you're case. The good news is you’re not dead in the water, that is, as long as you're comfortable making a few simple registry edits.

This guide will give you tips on all the upgrading scenarios, and even teach you how to use your upgrade DVD to perform a clean install on a fresh system with no prior OS. We show you how to turn the tables on the dreaded activation error code 0xC004F061: "The Software Licensing Service determined that this specified product key can only be used for upgrade, not for clean installations."

First, lets quickly review what you can do with the upgrade disk, and how you should approach each upgrade scenario.

Vista Specific Upgrades

Scenario 1

You’re doing an in-place upgrade from the same edition of Vista to the same edition of Windows 7. For example, Windows Vista Home Premium to Windows 7 Home Premium, Windows Vista Ultimate to Windows 7 Ultimate, etc.

Next Steps

Just pop in your upgrade DVD while in Vista and follow the prompts, this one is drop dead simple! Activation should go off without a hitch.

Scenario 2

You're upgrading your copy of Windows Vista to a different edition of Windows 7. For example, Vista Ultimate to Windows 7 Home Premium, or Vista Business to Windows 7 Ultimate.

Next Steps

You will need to boot from the CD and perform a clean install. Do not format your drive using any program other than the Windows installer, or you will be forced to perform the registry hack listed below in order to activate.

If you install Windows 7 to the same drive that Vista is currently located on without formatting, the contents will be moved to Windows.old that you can sift through or delete later.

Clean Install / Fresh Install

Scenario 3

You’re doing a clean install of Windows 7, and Windows Vista, Windows XP, or Windows 2000 is currently installed.

Next Steps

Do not format your drive using anything other than the Windows installer. Simply boot from the CD and either format the drive when given the option, or install to the same drive which will create a Windows.old folder with your previous data.

Scenario 4

You have a freshly built system with a totally blank or formatted hard drive.

Next Steps

You could install a previous version of Windows, activate it, then go ahead and install Windows 7 using one of the scenarios listed above which some call “The Double Install Method”, or you could follow the steps on the next page to trick the activation service into thinking it found a previous version.

Installing to a Fresh Drive

Step 1 - Access & Edit the Registry

A true geek has never been intimidated by the registry, but lets face it, it's a mess in there. To access the registry you will first need to open up the start menu and type "regedit" into the search field, followed by enter. To find the proverbial needle in this haystack, you will need to navigate through the tabs listed on the left in the following order:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/Software/Microsoft/Windows/CurrentVersion/Setup/OOBE/ . If you don't like doing it the hard way just click Edit then Find and type MediaBootInstall into the search field, and press enter.

Once found, double click MediaBootInstall and change the "1" to a "0". Once you have finished this, simply click Ok and close out the Registry Editor.

Step 2 - Re-Arm The Activation

Before we try to activate our copy of Windows, we need to reset or "Re-Arm" the activation sequence. To do this, simply open up the start menu and type cmd but instead of just pressing enter, you need to press "Ctrl" + "Shift" + "Enter" to run it as an administrator. You can also accomplish this by clicking the start menu, typing cmd into the search box, then right clicking the command prompt application and selecting Run as administrator.

Once the command prompt appears type slmgr /rearm and press enter. Next simply type Exit and hit enter again, after which it will ask you to restart your machine.

It’s worth mentioning that this tip will allow you to reset the 30-day activation period for new installs. On Vista it worked 3 times before refusing to add any more time, but the RTM of Windows 7 hasn’t been out long enough for us to re-test the feature. I expect it would be much the same and it allows you to make sure your system is 100% stable before using up an activation.

Step 3 - Activate Windows

The final step is to simply bring up the start menu, type "Activate Windows", then follow the prompts to success. This is a known working solution to perform a fresh install using upgrade media, but let me warn you now, it may eventually get patched out. With this in mind, it’s probably best to make sure activating is the first thing you do before you hit up Windows Update if you're trying this on SP1 or SP2.

Conclusion

Its unfortunate that Microsoft didn’t choose to enforce the honor system method when it comes to upgrading, but I suppose you can’t begrudge them their attempts to stem piracy. As for why Microsoft was so tight lipped about the exact upgrade requirements, we’ll probably never know, but it was likely just an attempt to avoid further controversy.

All things considered however, its rather underhanded to allow users to install without a product key, fine tune their systems, then not allow them to activate, with no phone number to call and petition your case. This happened to me simply because the installer failed the first time, and was then faced with a fresh disk when it came time for round 2.

How do you think the upgrade process was handled? Let us know in the comments below.

Additional Resources

If you’re looking for help on how to install Windows 7 as a Dual boot, check our step by step tutorial.

And if you didn’t find the answer to your upgrade question here, that’s probably because it was covered in our past guide.

Windows 7 Upgrade Guide for RC (Release Candidate) Users

Alex Castle — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 10:30:00 -0500

For a lot of MaximumPC readers, the fuss over Windows 7 launch week might seem a little unwarranted—after all, many of you have been happily running Windows 7 for months now, so what’s so exciting about a retail launch? In fact, if you’re in that boat, the launch poses more of a hassle than anything else, since your free RC version of Windows 7 is closer than ever to shutting down. And when it does, you can't even do an upgrade install of Windows 7, you have to either re-install Windows Vista first, or buy a standalone version of Windows 7.

Or do you? Even though Microsoft’s official stance is that you can’t upgrade from the Release Candidate to the RTM/Retail version of Windows 7, it’s actually possible to do so using a quick, easy hack. This means that you can use the cheaper upgrade version of Windows 7, and do a "Custom Upgrade" to get a clean install. Or, if you don't mind the risk of additional headaches down the line, you can do an in-place upgrade from Windows 7 RC to RTM. Here’s how to do it, in 7 simple steps

Step 1

Insert your Windows 7 retail disc into your DVD drive. Make sure to put the 32-bit installer disc in if you’ll be installing 32-bit Windows and the 64-bit installer disc in if you’re installing 64-bit Windows. If you downloaded an ISO from TechNet, simply proceed to step two.

Step 2

Extract all the files from the DVD (or ISO) into a folder on your desktop.

Step 3

Open the folder you moved the files to, then open the “sources” directory.

Step 4

Using Notepad, open the “cversion.ini” file.

Step 5

This file specifies which versions of Windows are eligible to upgrade. Right now it says the minimum client version able to upgrade is 7233—change this to read 7000 and you’ll be able to upgrade the beta or RC to RTM.

Step 6

Save cversion.ini, overwriting the old file.

Step 7

Install Windows 7 using these modified installation files. The easiest way to do this is by following our boot from USB guide. If you want, it’s also possible to create a new installation disc from these files using the free burner ImgBurn. You can find a guide on how to do this here.

Now, even though Microsoft has intentionally made this possible (and spilled the beans about how to do it in a blog post), they don’t officially support this kind of upgrade, and they warn that it may result in “some oddities,” so proceed at your own risk. Still, we’ve had good results upgrading this way, and it’s a heck of a lot more appealing than paying full-price for a standalone copy of Windows 7.

How-To: Install Windows 7 the Right Way

Alex Castle — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 10:00:00 -0500

How to get Microsoft's new OS up and running on your rig

Got your hands on Windows 7? Excellent. It's time to install this bad boy. But you want to make sure you're installing it right. Our no-nonsense install guide shows you the right way to install Windows 7 and tells you exactly what you should do the moment your install completes.

1. Back Up Your PC

Before beginning a new OS installation, it’s crucial that you back up your documents and media—after all, we recommend a clean install to minimize cruft and maximize performance. The safest, easiest way to do this is to buy a new hard disk and replace your old one. With speedy 1TB drives around $100, it’s never a bad time to upgrade your storage, and using a clean drive to install your OS means all your files are already backed up; just connect your old hard drive when you’re done and transfer over what you need.

If you’ve updated recently, or don’t want to spend the cash, you’ll want to make sure to back up the files you need to a different partition or physical drive. The most important place to look for files is in your user profile directory, which contains your Documents, Desktop, Pictures, and Application Data folders. We generally recommend backing up the entire C:/Users/<your user name> path. Remember to grab any needed program data or game saves from your Program Files folder, and also make sure to grab any other important directories you’ve created on the disk that are outside these standard paths, such as C:/Download.

2. Start the Installer

Note: If you want to install Windows 7 from a USB key, read our instructions here.

Microsoft has made installing Windows 7 simpler than with any previous version of Windows. You just drop the DVD in the tray, and restart your system. At some point during the boot, you’ll be given the option to “Press any key to boot from CD/DVD,” or something along those lines—do so. (If you don’t get this option, go into the BIOS and move the DVD drive ahead of the hard drive in the boot order). Windows will load files from the disk for a moment, then the installer will launch. Select your language preferences, then click Install Now.

Accept the Windows license agreement and choose to do a Custom install. Now, select the system partition you want to install to. (If you’re installing onto a new drive, you may need to create a partition by pressing the New button). If you’re installing over an old partition, it’s a good idea to format it to remove the remnants of the old OS before you install Win7. WARNING: Formatting removes all data from a drive, so make sure you’ve backed up everything. This is the point of no return. That’s all Windows 7 needs to know, so go make yourself a sandwich while your new OS is installed.

3. Finish the Install

Once the install is complete, you’ll be asked for a user name and computer name. We generally recommend using a more creative name than “PC” or “Laptop” for your computer name, to make networking easier. You’ll be given the option to create a password for your account, but you can skip this if you want to. You’ll then be asked for your activation key, although you can skip this step as well—Windows 7 will run for 30 days without a key or activation. Next, you’ll be prompted to choose Windows update settings; we recommend “Use recommended settings.” Set the clock and choose your time zone, and you’re ready to start using your new system.

Next, what to do immediately after the install.

Post-Install Guide

It's time to get your new OS in order

1. Install Drivers

Windows Update does a pretty good job of automatically downloading and installing the drivers your system needs, but that doesn’t mean you’ll never need to manually download a driver again. We recommend that you start (as always) by installing your motherboard’s chipset/NIC drivers. It’s also worth it to manually install the latest drivers for your videocard. Even though Windows update will most likely find drivers for your GPU, it probably won’t be the most up-to-date version available. Use Windows 7 drivers whenever they’re available, but if they aren’t, we’ve had good luck using Vista drivers on Windows 7.

2. Configure User Account Control Settings

In Vista, one of the first things you had to do with any install was disable UAC to prevent those incessant “Do you really want to install this?” prompts. Fortunately, Microsoft has tweaked the default UAC setting in Windows 7. Now, it strikes an excellent balance of keeping you safe with minimal annoyance, popping up alerts only when programs attempt to install software or alter your settings. If you want a higher level of security, you can open the UAC manager (in the control panel under Security) and raise the UAC to the maximum level, which is similar to Vista mode and will trigger an alert for pretty much anything. Alternately, you can disable notifications entirely by setting UAC to its lowest setting.

3. Restore Your Data

If you took our advice and started with a fresh hard drive, all you’ll have to do to restore your old data is connect your old HDD to a secondary SATA port and transfer over all your old files. Copy over all the important data we mentioned earlier, but be sure not to simply copy your old user profile directory over to your new one. Instead, fish out all the documents and media you need, remembering to collect important files from the hidden AppData folder, which usually includes your browser profiles and Outlook data.

How To: Install Windows 7 from a USB Key!

Norman Chan — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 08:00:00 -0500

So after reading our review of Windows 7, you’re ready to take the plunge and upgrade to Microsoft's new OS. You’ve read our upgrade guide, decided whether you want 32- or 64-bit Windows 7, and bought your retail box. But what if you want to install Windows 7 on a netbook or other computer without an optical drive? Fortunately, you’re not out of luck, because Windows 7 (and Vista, for that matter) can be installed from a USB storage key. Not only does installing from a USB key remove the need for a DVD drive, the install time is also greatly reduced – we shaved off minutes from the total install time. Our step-by-step guide will have you rocking the new version of Windows in no time!

Time = 1 hour

What you need:

4GB USB key
$10, www.newegg.com
WinRAR
Free Evaluation Copy, www.rarlab.com
Windows 7
$99 (OEM)

Note: This guide will only work within Windows Vista or 7.

1. Format Your USB Key

Plug in your USB key and back up any existing data stored on it. You’ll need to format the key before you can make it a bootable device.

Open up a Command Prompt as an Administrator. You can do this by finding the cmd.exe in yoru Windows/System32 folder, right-clicking the executable, and selecting “Run as Administrator”. Alternatively, type CMD in the Start Menu search field and activate the Command Prompt using Ctrl + Shift + Enter.

You should be under c:\Windows\system32 (assuming your Windows partition is the C drive). Type “diskpart” in the command line to enter the Disk Partition command line tool, which lets you format and create partitions on active disks.

Type “list disk” to reveal a list of all your active disks, each of which is associated with a number. Make a note of which one is your USB key, based on the capacity. In our screenshot below, our USB drive is Disk 6 (8GB).

Next, type the following commands, one at a time:

Select Disk # (Where # is the number of your USB disk. We typed “Select Disk 6”)

Clean (removes any existing partitions from the USB disk, including any hidden sectors)

Create Partition Primary (Creates a new primary partition with default parameters)

Select Partition 1 (Focus on the newly created partition)

Active (Sets the in-focus partition to active, informing the disk firmware that this is a valid system partition)

Format FS=NTFS (Formats the partition with the NTFS file system. This may take several minutes to complete, depending on the size of your USB key.)

Assign (Gives the USB drive a Windows volume and next available drive letter, which you should write down. In our case, drive “L” was assigned.)

Exit (Quits the DiskPart tool)

2. Turn the USB Key into a Bootable Device

Insert the Windows 7 install DVD into your drive, and view the files that it contains. Copy all of the files here to a folder on your Desktop. We put the disc contents in a folder named “Windows 7”

Go back to your command prompt, running it as an Administrator. Using the “CD” command, find your way to the folder where you extracted the ISO files. Your command line path should look something like “C:\Users\USERNAMEHERE\Desktop\Windows 7\”.

Type the following commands:

CD Boot (This gets you into the “boot” directory)

Bootsect.exe /nt60 L: (where ‘L’ is the drive letter assigned to your USB key from the previous step)

Bootsect infuses boot manager compatible code into your USB key to make it a bootable device.

IMPORTANT: If you’re currently running 32-bit Windows Vista or 7, Bootsect will only work if you use the files from the 32-bit Windows 7 install disc. The Bootsect executable from the 64-bit version will not run in 32-bit Vista.

3. Load the USB Key Up with the Install Files

Copy all of the extracted ISO files into the USB drive. You don’t need to do this from the command prompt. Just drag and drop the files from the “Windows 7” folder into the drive using Windows Explorer.

Your USB key is now all ready to go! Plug it into your target system and make sure you enter the BIOS (typically with F2 or F12) to temporarily change the boot order to allow booting from the USB key before your primary hard drive or optical drive. On the next restart, your system should automatically begin speedily loading setup files off of the USB key and entering Windows 7 installation.

[Editor's Note: This article was originally posted as "How To: Install Windows 7 Beta from a USB Key!" It has been updated and reposted for the official launch of Windows 7 on Thursday.]