How to: Upgrade Your DSL Connection Using Filters



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i know this is kinda an old article but if you were to use a cat5/5e/6 for this would this bypass the length requirement of telephone wire to modem cap? or no?



yes and no.

If the modem is in the attic with the punch board shown in the pictures, of course...

but if you are going from an RJ11(or RJ14) jack through a four wire phone cable from the wall to your modem, then no, because its the "twisted pairs" in the ethernet which counteract the radio interference that traditional telephone cables pick up in lengths of longer than 8-10 feet.

the only way to get around that is to hand build a run of cat5e or cat6 ethernet cable with traditional RJ11 phone connectors on either end. Only then will the twisted, insulated wire pairs will eliminate the noise of runs greater than 10 feet. Really, the simpler answer is to put your DSL modem next to the phone jack, and then ethernet it to your PC or a router to distribute the DSL connection to the rest of the house.

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What funny is for me is that I live on the edge of our old town and the newer part of town.  So, I do not have access to DSL but I can get 24 mbs cable service.  The DSL service ends just a few houses down the street.  Really weird.  It is like the phone company just gave up at a certain point.



Doing what you're doing. Spamming tech sites with cheap website selling counterfeit knock offs.  I'd sling profanity at you, but you've probably been called every name in the book.  In the end, I pity you because it's pretty evident that you'll die cold and alone.




"In the United States and Canada, it’s pretty standard for the telcos to connect a line to your house leaving the rest of the wiring beyond that point under your control. That point is called a Demarcation Point or a NID (Network Interface Device) and the telcos responsibility ends there."

For an ordinary telephone service they always used to ensure a working line to the inside of your house .... but my old phone company here in Canada told me that the grounded out service in my newly purchased home was my problem  and continued to bill me for 2 months in which the phone did not work.

I switched to cable modem based phone service which my ISP was only to happy to completely install inside and out.  Meanwhile I paid the phone company simply to get them off my back but they sent a remaining small bill to a collection agency.

Lousy customer service is why phone companies are losing my business.



While i found this article interesting, the commentary left by MPC's excellent users was by far the best part of this read ! Thank You all for your great insight and helpfull tips.




The A stands for Asymmetric, not Asynchronous.



First off, CAT6 is way overkill for DSL. The signalling CAT6 cabling was designed for isn't present in the DSL feed. CAT5 or CAT5e is more than sufficient for your whole house. My home was prewired with CAT5e and I'm successfully running Gigabit Ethernet in addition to my wi-fi. While locating CAT6 modem cables is an exercise in futility, CAT5 modem cables are readily available, and oftentimes come with your DSL modem or other phone-capable devices. These are round cables, usually with one or two pairs of wires as opposed to the standard modular flatwire.

Second, Tip and Ring polarity is defined and essential for proper telephone system operation. Although many devices don't care about the polarity and will work just fine either way, I still come across the odd piece of equipment that won't. Best to wire up your colors properly.

In most installations these days the telco runs a CAT5 wire in and connects the blue and orange pairs just in case you need a second line for voice or fax. If you have DSL installed, they will usually use the brown pair in the same wire if they can, saving installation time and expense. While it's true that better filtering can help increase your DSL speed, this may only work if you are still using the older, shared service method, where the DSL is sharing the line with your voice. If you are having significant speed issues, the telco may need to 'condition' your line (by filtering from the central office, or 'CO', or by using other noise-cancellation techniques. Sometimes they will have to replace your wire outright. It pays to be a loud complainer. With SDSL, the telcos almost always ran a separate line, which eliminated a lot of the interference potential.

In most cases, T1 lines are actually provisioned from VDSL lines the telcos use between CO's.



Just FYI.

I see in the pictures that you cut the orange/white service wire to the house. As an installer for a Telco in Canada I have to say this is a very bad idea.

While it does make for a clean looking Dmarc and you are correct that you only need one pair to make dial tone and high speed work, this second pair is used in several ways and in the previous picture it was coiled up for a reason. You could also splice an amount of wire onto the ends you have left but this creates a bunch of unneeded work and can have an effect on your signal. It also will makes the Dmarc look even worse.

First and foremost this pair is used if your first pair ever goes bad. This happens more often than you think and is much better than having to move the Dmarc to adjust where the wires enter (If possible) or having to trench a new line. It’s a bit easier with overhead lines but it’s still a hassle and can leave a customer out of service until it can be repaired.

Secondly, for IP TV service, this pair can be used for a second modem to hook up additional TV/PVR boxes.

Thirdly this pair can be used for secondary service to the home for the family that lives there (Additional TVs with different subscription) or for a tenant if there is a suit.

It’s important to check with you Telco as if we were to come upon a Dmarc where the second pair had been cut like this it would be up to the customer to pay for any work required to make those pairs usable.

Most of our newer Dmarcs don't allow the customer access to the service wires so we haven’t had to deal with many of these situations but other Telco's may be different.

Other than that I wanted to say this is a great article.

The company I work for already tries to convince the customer to allow us to do this with our installs and is often at no charge to them including the POTS splitter.

Rather than splitting the lines we use the house filter and usually we prefer to have the modem/wireless router at the panel (This is what we would call the place you show in "Inside Wiring, After"). We then run CAT 5 anywhere the customer needs an internet hook up or a TV needs a box.

Again I suggest people call there Telcos to see what they are willing to do and before cutting the service wires.



Yup, In general, it's a bad idea to f*** with the NID on the outside of the house. It's almost always legally considered to be the property of the phone company, and anything you do to it will either void your service contract, leave you open to the cost of undoing whatever you did (up to $75 per hour), or worst case, get your service entirely cut off and you fined (or maybe even jailed if you're doing it to someone ELSE'S house)

Just stick to what's INSIDE your home if you want to tackle this kind of work.

As to the Level of wiring you choose to use? as long as it's all INSIDE your walls, cat 5/5e will usually be sufficient (unless you still have a house with solid copper electrical wiring). cat6 and 7 are generally intended for issues where the cable is fully trafficed, is running in a bundle with other wires, or running between two exposed devices, and therefore more susceptible to interference than just a lone cable run behind a chunk of drywall with only two active pairs in it.



Sheesh.  My ISP does this stuff (and more, like stringing ethernet around) free when you sign up, assuming you don't take the slightly quicker self-install option.



I read this expecting some revalation that would be amazing...I must say I was not impressed. I found a much simpler way of fixing most if not all of this problem. Back in the days we I got my first 56k modem after upgrading from my old 33.6 I re-wired my phone lines. Most of the time my USR Courier 56k wouldn't get much over a 33.6 connection. I resolved that problem by re-wiring the line my modem used at first, and then eventually the entire house, replacing all the old 1950's wiring with CAT5. CAT5 was still new(ish) and CAT3 was still widly being used in my area at the time. After installing the CAT5 I never got below a 45.5K connection again. When I tried DSL later on I got exactly as advertised for speed. I didn't have any fancy filters, just clean lines to start with. I switched to cable because the lame phone company only offered bottom tier dsl in my are, and still do. 5mb cable is better than 758k dsl any day.

I have proved to many of my customers that if they would just run a new line for the dsl they would get much better speeds. Using that cheap phone cords from wal-mart or the dollar store won't cut it, CAT3 or better. I have a 100 foot CAT3 cable I put RJ11 ends on and have run it from the box where the phone line meets the house direct to the modem and doubled or tripled the dsl speed. That all depends on how crappy their lines were in the first place. Usually it goes for bad or poor to what it is advertised as. You don't have to re-wrire the entire house, you can just have a CAT5 line run for the one you hook the dsl modem to. If you are just going to use crap phone cord why not just stick to dial-up. You are already torchering yourself, why not go all the way. Heck get yourself AOL dial-up if you are going to be that hard headed.



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It would be much better to wire everything up using 66 blocks. That way, you can easily move stuff around.



This seems like much more hassle then it's really worth. The fastest DSL service in my area only provides 20Mbps. My Cable is 60Mbps for almost the same monthly price. You could even go with fiberoptic in most local city areas for a little extra and get twice the speed what I have. The phone line seems the poor man's route to the internet. 

Just saying....



I work for an ISP that provides ADSL and other services. I guarantee you that after dealing with the cable company I currently have I would switch to DSL in a heartbeat, problem is the DSL provider in my area will not give me over 1.5 mbps. I am getting an average of 16 to 20 mbps with cable. But I will tell you I am constantly having issues with my connection dropping. The configuration shown in the article is known as a home run in the DSL industry.  Just make sure placement of the DSL connection is where a wireless router will reach all rooms that internet will be used. Also make sure that any filters you install have easy access because if you start getting phone calls and the connection drops it is a bad filter causing the problem. Many variables contribute to the ADSL connection like how far you are from the C.O.  Bottom line you cannot get a 10mbps out of a couple T1's running to a DSLAM in a rural area.. If you live in town a big favorite of companies is to offer UP TO speeds that can really irritate a customer. Bottom line if you are not getting the speeds you think call your provider and discuss what can be or cannot be done. If you are paying for 10mbps and only getting 5mbps and can only get 5mbps because of older copper lines or distance, change your plan, but realize that distance and the condition of the copper to your house will definitely give you a higher attenuation and therefore lower your speeds no matter how or what you have setup at your home. Of course if you are fiber fed your connection should  completely rock and roll....



As a former DSL tech myself, this is definitely a nice way to cut down on line noise inside the house, but it has some drawbacks; this is a permenant installation, if you decide you need/want to move your DSL Modem in the future, you gotta rewire the house phone-wise.

""Ideally, everything that you’re going to work on should be easily accessible on the inside of that wall."" Ah, if your house is less than twenty years old maybe, but if you live in anything built before the eighties, you've got a good chance of simply having a single heavy-guage phone wire  running inside the stud walls from that box (called the NID or Network Interface Device in parlance) throughout the house. Or, it could be on a ratty old punchdown made of steel/ceramic (or even wood!) in the attic or basement, as you show in that picture, that may have to be completely cut away. God forbid your phone line is just spliced and branched inside your walls instead of having a nice eight way punchdown block inside the NID, you'll be rewairing the whole house. And depending on your phone company, and how close to the fiber optic box (dslam) you are, there may be an annoyingly high amount of voltage running through your phone lines, leading to little shocks when you work on them. (same is true of cable modems I have found)

As to DSL haters? Well, haters gonna hate. The level of your service is always gonna depend on the equipment in your area and your in-home wiring, whether you go with a pooled service like Cable modem, or a direct service like aDSL. Personally, having used both over the years, I prefer aDSL since it's a direct line to the local phone company's backbone instead of being shared among everyone on your local node. But then again, I've also had good luck to live in areas with good equipment, 16mbs a second in a rural community is pretty nice, and it beats the cable companies 5 mbs offering by a mile. But there's always the horror story of that poor schmuck whose neighborhood DSLAM goes down every time it rains bcause the gaskets in the little green box are shot, or the guy who has to reset his cable modem every 6 hours because of a grounding issue between the house and the local node on the pole or in the ground.


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 Nothing like having your computer directly hooked to wires coming from the street. You have never seen an actual computer Cherenobyl until the phone lines are hit by lightning. Tis ugly, for sure. I have seen melted chips, capacitors blown off the board, and general mayhem to every single thing attached to the power supply.

  Wouldn't a surge suppressor or spark gap help to prevent this?



 The ATT phone wires on my street are at least 40 years old. It was the worst way to communicate since the tin can. Fortunately, I was able to get onto the cable's phone lines years ago. I have no idea how you can tell how old the wires are, but a quick visual inspection with a pair of binocs should give you some idea...

As for upgrades, I changed out my DOCSIS 2.0 modem for a DOCSIS 3.0 modem and went from 38Mbps to 71Mbps with no change in the cost of my cable internet charge. Sure beats the heck out of DSL...

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