How To Build The Ultimate Small-Form-Factor Gaming PC
You don't need a full-size motherboard and plus-size chassis to build a great gaming rig. Here's how to build a tiny computer with a huge punch.
Forget big. For this challenge, I’m going small. My goal: to create a kick-ass gaming rig on a Mini-ITX motherboard. That means I need a discrete graphics card, a mobo with a full PCI-E x16 slot, a desktop processor, and plenty of storage. I also need a case that can hold it all elegantly, a PSU to power it, and enough airflow to make sure the rig doesn’t melt. Finally, it has to look good.
Why a Mini-ITX gaming rig vs. a traditional desktop? For starters, I wanted to see what kind of performance is possible from a small formfactor PC. More importantly, why wouldn’t I (or anyone else) want a rig that’s easy to move from room to room, or take on the road for a LAN party?
Ingredients
Case/PSU Silverstone SG07 w/ 600W PSU $210
Mobo Zotac H55ITX-A-E LGA1156 $165
- CPU Intel Core i7-870 $290
- Cooler Stock Intel cooler $0
- RAM Corsair TW3X4G1333C9A 4GB Kit DDR3/1333 $90
Optical Drive Silverstone SOD01 Slimline DVD Combo Drive $85
- Hard Drive 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black 7,200rpm $180
- Solid State Drive 120GB Corsair Force F120 $300
GPU 1GB Gigabyte GTX N460OC-1G1 $230
- OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (OEM) $99
- Misc 90-degree SATA data cable and zip ties $4
Total: $1, 653
Picking the Essential Elements
In many ways, building a small formfactor PC is a distillation process. You can’t afford to include anything nonessential, but you can’t strip away anything you’re going to need.
Choosing the right kind of chassis for an SFF build is paramount. I chose Silverstone’s SG07 case because it offers plenty of cooling, an integrated 600W PSU, and room for two 2.5-inch drives, one 3.5-inch drive, a slimline optical drive, a Mini-ITX motherboard, and a full-size GPU, all in a package that measures just 7.5x8.65x13.75 inches. Plus it looks great.
I paired this enclosure with a Socket 1156 Zotac H55 motherboard with a PCI-E x16 slot, integrated Wi-Fi, and plenty of USB and SATA ports. This gives me room for a quad-core Core i7 CPU with Hyper-Threading, up to 8GB of RAM, one kick-ass GPU, an SSD or two, and a big ol’ storage drive. That’s all you need for a kick-ass gaming machine.
Because of the SG07’s cramped quarters, it’s trickier to build in than a more conventional chassis. Certain steps are out of order compared to a traditional build; others are skipped entirely. For this build you’ll need the parts listed above, plus a Philips-head screwdriver, some zip ties (optional), and a 2.5mm hex-head wrench (recommended for the last step).
1. Prep the Case
The SG07 requires significant disassembly before you can start your build (below). Start with the rear of the case facing you. Remove the three screws holding the top cover on, and then pull toward your body and up to remove the cover.

Silerstone's SG07, fully disassembled and ready for our build.
Remove the large case fan by unscrewing the three screws that keep it in position. Lift away. (Note that it will still be attached to the rear fan switch via a cable—you can remove the switch mechanism by unscrewing its two mounting screws). Remove the optical drive bracket by unscrewing the four screws holding it in place. The optical bezel is held on by a screw on the left side; remove it also. Take out the two screws holding the hard drive bracket, and then remove the bracket by lifting up and clockwise. We’re going to pull out the integrated PSU’s power cables so they’re ready to use when we need them.
Last step: the motherboard I/O shield. Remove all the little metal port protectors from the outside of the shield. Once all the ports are freed, insert the motherboard I/O shield into the case. Remember, it goes on the inside of the case, facing out. Press it firmly outward until it is seated evenly. Now, you’re ready to
start building.
2. Install the CPU
Since the inside of the SG07 is so cramped, you’ll want to install the CPU, heatsink, and RAM onto the motherboard before you put it in the case. Place the motherboard on a flat surface, then unclip the CPU retention bar and flip it back. This will lift up the load plate. Carefully remove the plastic socket cover, being careful not to touch any of the pins in the socket.
Hold the CPU parallel to the socket and carefully lower it into place. The notches on the CPU should line up with the corresponding ones on the socket. When the CPU is in place, lower the load plate over it, then secure the arm in its clip (below).

If the load plate doesn't close smoothly, don't force it. Make sure the CPU is oriented correctly.
3. Install the Cooler
For this build, we’re using the stock Intel cooler that comes with the CPU. Although it’s not as overclocker-friendly as an aftermarket cooler, it doesn’t have any compatibility issues with our mobo/case combo. The stock cooler should have thermal pads preinstalled; you can use those or replace them with your own favored thermal paste. (We prefer Arctic Silver 5.) For this demonstration, we’re using the stock pads (below).

Make sure all four of the heatsink’s pushpins are prepared by turning them away from the direction indicated by the arrows. Align the pushpins with the four mounting holes on the motherboard and guide the pins into their respective mounting holes. Once the heatsink is sitting loosely on the CPU with pins in place, press down firmly on two pushpins on opposite corners of the heatsink until each clicks and the cooler is secure. Repeat for the other two pins (below). The heatsink should be firmly attached without wiggling. Connect the cooler’s power connector to the motherboard’s CPU_FAN header.

4. Install the RAM
The H55-based Zotac board supports dual-channel DDR3/1066 or DDR3/1333 in its two DIMM slots. For this build, we’re using two 2GB DDR3/1333 DIMMS, for 4GB total. Since you’re populating both slots, you don’t have to worry about setting things up incorrectly.
Just open the two brackets on each slot, and make sure the RAM is oriented correctly—match the notch in the DIMM with the notch in the slot. Press down on the corners of the DIMM until it seats and the retention brackets lock into place (below).
