How To Build a Compact 3D-Enabled HTPC For Less Than $1000
We set out to build a Sandy Bridge box that takes up little space in our entertainment center and fulfills all our streaming needs
Back in the August 2010 issue of Maximum PC I built a 3D HTPC that I was pretty damned happy with, but the times have changed. The CableCard quad tuner that was featured prominently in that machine is no longer needed, as I have joined the ranks of the Cable Cutter Movement™. So without the need for a CableCard, I wondered if I could build a rig with all the same capabilities but make it much, much smaller.
Ingredients
Case/PSU Silverstone Lascala LC12 w/120W PSU $180
- Mobo Zotac H67-ITX WiFi $160
- CPU Intel Core i3-2100T $130
- Cooler Silverstone NT07-1156 $30
- RAM 4GB Corsair DDR/1333 $50
- Optical Drive Sony Optiarc BC-5640H-01 $160
- Solid-State Drive 60GB G.Skill Phoenix Pro $130
- OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (OEM) $99
- Misc 2x USB header extension cables $5
Total for PC: $944
Picking the Best Parts for the Job
When Intel released its 2.5GHz Core i3-2100T chip, I thought I had a good place to start. Its integrated graphics processor supports 3D Blu-ray over HDMI 1.4 TV sets. Even better, the H67 chipset supports lossless audio. This let me dispense with both the discrete graphics card and soundcard that our previous 3D HTPC required.
The Core i3-2100T is also the coolest desktop Sandy Bridge CPU out today. With a TDP rating of 35 watts, it’s nearly half as hot as the other dual-core Sandy Bridge desktop chips. I consider AMD’s Fusion to be the natural successor to Atom, but I still find it a wee bit slow for desktop use.
For the case, Silverstone’s Lascala LC12 seemed to fit the bill. It’s not as small as some HTPC boxes, but depth usually isn’t an issue on home theater racks. The stock LC12 comes with a 60W brick that does not include an ATX12V connector (the original Mini-ITX form factor didn’t call for it), so we upgraded to the 120W PSU from Silverstone. The case should accommodate the standard heatsink that comes with the chip, but I thought I’d cut down on noise with the Silverstone NT07 low-profile cooler. Besides sitting lower, it also offers a switch to manually lower fan speed for quieter performance. As for the motherboard, Zotac’s boards have been leading the way in the Mini-ITX revolution, and the H67-ITX WiFi gives me 802.11n, LGA1155 support, and full-size DIMM slots.
I decided against a mechanical hard drive for this build, as I find that components on my theater rack often get jostled while they’re running. An SSD eliminates worries about head crashes, and with the Zotac board the 60GB G.Skill Phoenix drive will boot in less than 20 seconds. There’s also no need for tons of local storage, since I’ll mostly be streaming from a server or the Internet and there’s no TV tuner to record from.
The final piece was a Sony BC-5640H slot-fed Blu-ray combo drive, which helps class up the machine a bit. Tray versions are cheaper and easier to find, but not as slick.
1. Remove the Drive Cage
The LC12 breaks down into two pieces: The top tray holds the ODD and SSD and adds strength to the aluminum frame. To begin the build, you need to remove the top tray by removing two screws at the rear of the cage (below), and two at the front. Set these screws aside in a small cup so you don’t lose them.

2. Install the I/O Shield
Remove the stock I/O shield (that’s the fancy name for the metal plate at the back of the case) and install the I/O shield that came with your motherboard (below).

3. Install the CPU

Set the case aside and grab the Zotac motherboard. To install the CPU, first unlock the load plate on the CPU socket. Once that’s off, remove the plastic cover protecting the delicate pins in the socket (above). Save the cover. If you ever need to return the board, the manufacturer will not accept it without the cover. Use two fingers to hold the CPU parallel to the socket, with the notches on both lined up (below). Gently lower the CPU straight into the socket. Do not drop one half of the chip into the socket and then slide it around. Once the chip is seated, lower the load plate and lock it with the arm.
