Psst! Want to Hack Your Hardware? Here's How!
Novice: Make your Case Moveable
Sliding your case out from under a desk shouldn’t be a chore—nor should it permanently damage your hardwood floors. The solution is to apply strategically placed felt pads to the bottom of your case. For cases with four plastic feet, you can attach circular felt pads to each foot for guaranteed protection. We found an eight-pack of heavy-duty self-adhering pads for $4 at a local hardware store. You can also buy sheets of felt to cut to your own specification—for use with a case that has rails instead of feet, for example, such as Cooler Master’s Cosmos. On carpeted floors, we like to place our system on a sheet of plastic counter lining ($5 at Home Depot) for an easier slide-out.
Expert: Connect your X-Fi to a Front-Panel Connector
Integrated audio has come a long way since its dodgy beginnings, but we still can’t resist the aural lure of Creative Labs’s X-Fi soundcards. The problem is that these cards don’t have the appropriate plugs to accommodate the front-panel sound ports on most new cases. X-tap.com sells adapters for $30, but it’s also possible to make your own X-Fi harness to maximize acoustic accessibility.
We found all the necessary parts for less than $10 at Digikey.com (image A): a white 10-position, 2mm connector (part no. 455-1151-ND) that snaps into the top of the X-Fi soundcard, small terminal connectors (part no. 455-1127-1-ND) that fit into the white connector, a black connector housing (part no. WM2522-ND) that’ll connect to the case’s front-panel audio connectors, and at least five long terminal connectors (part no. WM2515-ND) that go into this black housing block. The wires themselves can be harvested from an old Ethernet cable. You’ll also need a pair of needle-nose pliers and a set of wire cutters.
Cut a five-inch section of network cable and separate out five individual wires. Strip 2mm of insulation from each end of the wires and carefully crimp one of each connector type (long and short) on either end of each wire (image B).
Now, with the white 10-position connector oriented as shown (image C), insert the wires via the small-connector end. If done properly, the small metal tab on the connector should lock into place when pushed deep enough. You’ll want to insert wires into positions 1, 2, 4, 6, and 8, leaving the other slots empty. Position 1 is ground, 2 is headphone left, 4 is headphone right, 6 is mic input, and 8 is the voltage for the microphone. Now follow the diagram to insert the long-connector end of the wires into the black housing (image C). Wrap some tape around your wires to create a finished cable (image D).
If your case uses a front-panel audio connector that’s individually wired and labeled, matching the five connectors should be easy. Make sure that each wire is insulated from the others with some electrical tape to prevent shorting out your X-Fi. If your case’s front-panel audio connector is a black housing block corresponding to AC’97 or HD audio specs, refer to http://tinyurl.com/47olau for details on how to correctly arrange the prongs in your black housing block to match the front-panel one.