Build Your Own Multitouch Surface Computer
The Camera
In order for our setup to work, we needed a camera that senses infrared light, but not visible light. It sounds expensive, but you’d be surprised. In this section, we’ll show you how we created an IR camera with excellent resolution and frame-rate for only $35—the price of one PlayStation 3 Eye camera. “But that’s not an IR camera,” you say? We’ll show you how to fix that.
As it turns out, most cameras are able to sense infrared light. If you want to see first-hand proof that this is the case, try this simple experiment: First, find a cheap digital camera. Most cell phone cameras are perfect for this. Next, point it at the front of your TV’s remote control. Then, while watching the camera’s display, press the buttons on the remote. You’ll see a bluish-white light that is invisible to the naked eye. That’s the infrared light used by the remote to control the TV.
However, for the sake of preserving an accurate color balance, most cameras have an IR filter applied, which causes the camera to detect only visible light. It’s possible (and in the PS3 Eye’s case, reasonably easy) to open up a camera, remove the IR filter, and replace it with a visible light filter, making an infrared-only camera.
But before we could get at the PS3 Eye’s sweet, sweet IR filter, we had to crack it out of its shell. To do this, we started by flipping it over and popping off the four little black disks glued over the screw wells. We had seen this done using an X-Acto knife in this excellent video, but when we tried to recreate the feat ourselves we didn’t manage to do anything except snap the tip off our X-Acto's blade. Instead, we found that using the corner of a regular rectangular razor blade to pry the disks off was more effective.
Once the covers are gone, the screws can be removed and the two halves of the shell pulled apart. This is a little easier said than done, though; the shell is glued together. To break it apart, we had to use a process that involved going around the seam that joins the two halves of the camera, inserting a flathead screwdriver and twisting every centimeter or so, until the halves separated.
With the back half of the shell removed, the circuit board is exposed. First, we removed the two screws at the bottom, labeled (a), allowing us to removed the camera’s base, then we unscrewed the five screws labeled (b) and separated the circuit board from the front casing. Finally, we removed the two smaller screws that had been hidden behind the camera's base, freeing the lens from the board and making sure not to damage the sensor beneath it.
The infrared sensor is the innermost piece of glass on the lens assembly. When it catches the light, it looks ruby red – a dead giveaway that this is the piece filtering out infrared light. In order to remove it we simply used a razor blade to gouge out the plastic in a circle around the filter, allowing us to easily pop it out.
That red circle is the infrared filter
The lens with IR filter carved out
So now the IR filter is gone, but we need a visible light filter to replace it with. You can buy fancy IR bandpass filters off the internet, which will give the best results, but it’s also possible to make a very passable (no pun intended) filter out of the magnetic tape inside of a floppy disk, or a couple of pieces of exposed film negatives. We went with the magnetic tape method, and (after a few false starts) were able to cut a square that fit nicely into the square space between the lens assembly and the image sensor. We reassembled the PS3 eye, now converted into an IR-only camera.
Magnetic tape after several attempt to cut a filter
PS3Eye lens enclosure with visible light filter added
The PS3 Eye camera has two focus settings, for a wide or narrow field of view, which can be selected by twisting the plastic ring around the lense. It’s worth noting that the removal of the IR filter messes up the focus of the PS3 Eye slightly, and we found out through trial and error that in order to get it to focus sharply, we had to twist the focus ring very slightly, so that it was “balanced” between the two settings that it normally snaps to.