How to Build a Kick-Ass Gaming Rig for Under $700
1. Prepare The Case

First, the Rosewill R218 case. Facing the front of the case, remove the left-hand panel by removing the two thumbscrews in back. The case features several built-in bump-type standoffs. You’ll need to supplement these by installing additional standoffs in three spots (above, left). To figure out where to place them, place your motherboard in the case and eyeball which holes in the motherboard do not have mounts under them. If you’re a total newb, you should know that the four larger holes around the CPU socket are not for mounting the board: They are for mounting the CPU cooler. The standoffs you need should be in the sealed plastic parts bag that came with the case. Screw them in by hand and then use pliers to tighten them so they don’t back out. This is also a good time to remove any expansion card slot covers. You need the top two slots for the graphics card in this case.
Next, remove the I/O shield, the rectangular metal plate that surrounds the PS/2, USB, and audio ports. Simply wiggle it back and forth until the metal tabs break loose. Your motherboard should have come with a metal I/O shield; fit this into the open hole. With our case, we had to remove the rear fan in order to fit it in (above, right). After we installed the I/O shield (below), we then reinstalled the fan.
2. Install the CPU
Before you install the CPU, make sure to touch something grounded to remove static electricity built up on your body. If you’re truly paranoid, use an antistatic strap.

First unlock the socket’s load plate by opening the little arm on the LGA1155 socket (above).

Now carefully pry the plastic protective cap from the socket (above). Never touch these extremely delicate pins; bending them will kill the board. Keep the protective cap—you will need it in the event you have to return the board for warranty replacement. Now pick up your processor with two fingers and lower it as close as you can get to the socket.

The two notches in the chip should match the two notches in the socket. Keep the chip parallel to the socket (above). Do not drop one side of the chip into the socket and then drop in the other, nor slide it around in the socket, as it may damage the delicate pins. Once the chip is sitting flat in the socket (if it isn’t, carefully pick up the chip and try lowering it in again), use the arm to lower the load plate and lock in the arm.
3. Install the RAM
Since the board is out in the open, let’s take this opportunity to install the two sticks of RAM. You’ll need to first spread open the two arms on each RAM slot. Now, match the notch in the memory stick with the notch in the slot. The DIMM is keyed so that it only fits one way (below, left). With the DIMM perpendicular to the slot, push it straight into the slot until it clicks into place (below, right). The arms should lock in place automatically; if the arms aren’t totally locked in place, push them in with your fingers.

4. Install the Heatsink

Our retail processor comes with the stock Intel heatsink fan that includes a thin film of thermal paste already on it (above). For newbs: This paste helps fill in the nooks and crannies (yes, like a Thomas’ English Muffin) that are formed when you compress the heatsink on the CPU. To install the heatsink fan, line up the four legs of the heatsink with the four holes around the CPU socket, and push the plastic anchor points through the holes by pushing on the knob-like top of each until you hear an audible click (below, top left).
Using a criss-cross pattern, similar to how you would tighten down lug nuts, lock each of the four legs in place. Look at the bottom of the board and you should see the legs protruding through the bottom (below, top right). Also tug on the heatsink from the top to make sure it’s locked in place. Now plug in the fan’s power lead (below, bottom).

