How to Build a Kick-ass $800 Gaming PC
6. Installing the Videocard
With only one x16 PCI-E slot on our mobo, there’s only one place for our Radeon HD 4850 card to reside in. Before you plug in the videocard, you need to clear a slot for it. Remove the slot cover from case, then slide the card in along the expansion slot. It’s important to keep the card perpendicular to the plane of the motherboard, so that it properly seats in the slot. Make sure the card makes complete contact with the slot and is fitted all the way in. Once the card is securely in place, screw the mounting bracket to the chassis.
7. Install the Optical and Hard Drives
Before installing the optical drive, you’ll need to locate the screws that will hold the drive in place. The loose screws will be located in a small plastic bag inside your DVD burner’s retail box. (If you didn’t buy a retail DVD burner, check your case’s parts box.)
On some computer cases, there are bezels covering each slot where you’ll mount your drives. In this instance, you only need to remove a single bay bezel from the front side of the case. Simply slide the optical drive into the 5.25-inch bay, making sure that you line up the appropriate holes with the slots and that the front bezel of the drive is aligned with the front of your case. Then, mount the drive on the case using the proper screws. You only need two screws on each side of the drive to keep it safely mounted.
With the hard drive, you won't have to remove any bezel or front paneling. Just hold the drive in place while you screw it in.
8.Get Wired
Oh cables, how much we loathe thee. Luckily, with SATA drives we don’t have to worry about ugly, gray, IDE cables anymore. You’ll need to run a SATA cable from your motherboard (the ports are on the lower right portion of the board) to your optical and another to your hard drive. It’s a good idea to make sure that the hard drive containing Windows is plugged into the first SATA port on your motherboard. In this build, we kept it simple by only requiring two SATA ports for our two drives. This MSI board can connect up to six SATA devices, which leaves you plenty of room for upgrades in the future.
Next up are the dreaded front panel connections. You know, those multi-colored wires that need to be pushed onto a bunch of poorly labeled pins? Find these color-coded cables near the front of your case, and isolate the HDD LED, the power LED, the reset switch, and the power switch. You can plug the power and reset switches directly to the labeled leads on the mobo, but the two lights are trickier. Plug the HDD LED into the orange section, making sure the colored wire lines up with the + pin on the mobo. Do the same for the power LED as well. Don’t worry about making mistakes; a faulty connection will not harm your case or motherboard.
If you want to use the case’s front-mounted USB ports, connect the labeled USB cable to the JUSB1 pins; it should slide in easily and it’s keyed, so there’s only one possible way to connect it. The last connection you will need to make is for the front panel audio. The case comes with both an AC ’97 and HD Audio connection. You will want to use the HD Audio connector and plug it to the JAUD1 pins on the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
Now that you’re done with these troublesome wires, you may want to stand back and observe the mess of cables you have running around the interior. Bundle up your loose cables with zip ties and tuck them away in the case’s many crevices. With some extra effort and patience, you can pretty up the mess of wires and have your $800 PC looking like a Dream Machine.