How to Build a Kick-ass $800 Gaming PC
1. Mount the Power Supply
Traditionally, the PSU is mounted at the top of the case. But in this instance, the Antec Three Hundred case reserved room for the power supply at the bottom. Start by removing the four screws that are meant to hold the PSU in place. Then, slide the unit down into place, making sure you keep the wires inside the case and avoid pinching any underneath the power supply. This Power Supply should be oriented so that the rear fan is to the left of the power switch. With the screwdriver, insert the four screws into the appropriate slots to finish mounting the power supply.
2. Drop in the CPU
You may have thought with the end of CPU pins that installing your processor was safe and worry-free. It can be, but if you’re not careful, installing your new CPU can still bork your mobo. It’s still one of the most delicate steps in building a PC, which is why we usually recommend installing the CPU before you mount the motherboard in the case. First, remove the black protective shield covering the socket and store it in a place you won’t forget. It’s good practice to save this plastic covering since most motherboard manufacturers require it to be in place if you ever need to RMA a defective board.
The next step is to unlatch the metal arm next to the socket and lift the retention plate. Then, look at the CPU and the socket and match up the notches on the CPU with the notches on the socket. Drop the CPU in carefully while keeping it parallel to the socket (ie. not tilted at any angle). Make sure the marked corner of the CPU’s heat spreader matches up with the marked corner of the socket. Do not slide the CPU around when it is in the socket or it may damage the processor or motherboard. Once the CPU is aligned in place, drop the retention clamp and then slowly and carefully push the metal locking arm down, making sure it clicks into position. You will feel some resistance while pushing the arm down, but this is normal.
With the CPU in place, it’s time to attach the heatsink.
3. Lock in the Heatsink
The retail version of our CPU comes with a stock Intel cooler. In our experience, stock coolers deliver more than sufficient cooling for most users, especially if you’re not planning on overclocking your processor. The stock Intel cooler keeps things simple with pre-applied thermal paste and an easy-to-install, though not necessarily secure, locking mechanism.
First, make sure that you remove any protective film from the cooler’s thermal grease. Leaving that on will definitely cause your processor to overheat. Then ,line up the legs of the heatsink with the holes on the motherboard and let the heatsink rest on top of the CPU. Make sure each leg’s locking mechanism is in the install position with the arrows facing outward, away from the center of the cooler. Press firmly on the first leg until you hear a click and feel the locking mechanism snap into place. Then, do the same thing on the leg opposite the first one you locked.
Once all four legs are locked, you can flip the motherboard over and you should see all four legs sticking out slightly from the bottom. If a leg is not fully secured or the heatsink still feels loose, turn the locking mechanism counterclockwise with a flathead screwdriver so the arrows face in, pull the leg straight up and repeat the steps mentioned above.
After the cooler is safely fastened to the motherboard, plug the fan’s four-pin power cable into the corresponding four-pin header on the motherboard—typically it’s near the socket. Make sure your wires won’t get caught in the CPU fan though!