The Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
Mouse and Keyboard
Basic mice and keyboards are commodity-priced goods, available for as little as 10 dollars. They get the job done just fine. But if you’re planning to do any gaming at all, you owe it to yourself to upgrade to a gaming-grade mouse and keyboard combo. This upgrade—one of the cheapest you can make—may very well make the biggest difference.
The Razer Abyssus and Microsoft Sidewinder X4: Lots of features for surprisingly little dough.
For a budget gaming mouse, we recommend the Razer Abyssus ($30). Although it sits at the bottom of Razer’s sizeable gaming lineup and lacks a few of the features we appreciate in a mouse, such as thumb buttons, the Abyssus will feel like a noticeable step up from any non-gaming mouse. With ultra-tactile buttons, a 1,000Hz polling rate, and a very-respectable 3,500dpi optical sensor, the Abyssus should be more than responsive enough for all but the most hardcore gamers.
Our keyboard recommendation is Microsoft’s Sidewinder X4 ($50), which eschews some of the over-the-top bells and whistles of its more expensive X6 sibling, but retains all the features we really care about in a gaming keyboard. These include anti-ghosting (which allows many simultaneous key presses), programmable macro keys, and multiple profiles that switch when you load a game. Physically, the keyboard’s a real beauty, and the extra-springy keys are a joy to use for extended gaming or typing.
✔ 1,000Hz polling rate = responsive gaming
✔ Anti-ghosting keyboard
Power Supply Unit
Picture a raft full of PC components. It’ll take seven days for the rescue boat to arrive, but only five days of food and water remains. Who gets pushed off the raft first? The GPU? The CPU? No way. They’re first-class passengers. The case? The lowly keyboard? Don’t kid yourself. The power supply will be the first to go. Do you know why? Because no one respects the power supply.
No one respects the power supply. Except us. And you (hopefully).
And sadly, that’s the strategy everyone takes when they build a budget PC. We mean everyone. Hell, we’ve even occasionally given the PSU short shrift when push came to shove.
Fortunately, Corsair’s 750TX is one component that might force something else to swim with the sharks. (Yeah, take that, mouse!) With a five-year warranty, a high power-efficiency rating, and a single 62-amp rail, this PSU will keep any budget PC running, even on those sweltering summer days when your components are broiling at 120 degrees. With a street price of $99 and SLI certification for dual GeForce GTX 470 cards, the 750TX strikes a good balance between budget and midrange. Sure, it lacks modular cables, but that just means you can’t misplace the cables.
✔ SLI certified for dual GeForce GTX 470 cards
Speakers
Few things suck harder than cheap speakers—well, except maybe cheap TN displays. So we have to wonder how Logitech manages to sell the 2.1-channel Z523 speaker system for less than a hundred bucks. Heck, we’ve seen them selling online for as little as $70!
It's hard to believe Logitech's Z523 speakers costs just $70.
Now, we’ll be the first to admit that these puppies can’t compete with the likes of B&W’s glorious MM-1 system, which we review on page 80, but if you’re seriously considering those bad boys, you aren’t reading a story about budget upgrades. The Z523 isn’t appropriate for critical listening, but it can fill a small room and it has an exceedingly large sweet spot, thanks to the presence of a second driver mounted on the back of the two satellite speakers. These rear-facing drivers bounce audio waves off the wall behind them so that the sound arrives at your ears a microsecond after they’ve heard the front speakers.
The 40-watt amp in the subwoofer sends 9.5 watts to the two-inch full-range dome drivers in the satellites and 21 watts into a four-inch down-firing subwoofer, which is augmented by a six-inch side-facing pressure driver. There’s an input for a digital media player, and separate volume controls for stereo and for bass, so you can crank the lows for gaming. Lastly, there’s a headphone jack for those times when you’d prefer to rock out in private.
✔ Surprisingly rich sound
✔ Rear-facing drivers = large sweet spot
Headphones
At around $60, the Fatal1ty HS-1000 headset is hardly the cheapest on the market, but it contains several features we consider a must.
First, we like our gaming headsets to have cans big enough to surround the ear, for maximum noise isolation and comfort. The HS-1000 fits the bill here, with large, oval cans and ample foam padding. Second, we need a decent, adjustable mic—bonus points if it’s removable, for when we’re not playing games. The Fatal1ty gets a gold star here, as well. Third, the set should have some sort of in-line volume/mic control, to make it easy to fine-tune your settings mid-game. Creative’s set has this as well.
Creative's X-Fi drivers emulate the functions of a full-fledged X-Fi soundcard.
Last and most importantly, for us to call any gaming headset an “upgrade,” it has to actually sound good. That means bass deep enough to let you really feel each exploding frag grenade, and highs that let you hear the bullets whizzing past your head. This category is what makes the HS-1000 really shine as a budget headset, thanks in large part to Creative’s excellent X-Fi drivers, which emulate the functions of a full-fledged X-Fi soundcard, including EAX effects and simulated surround sound.
You could go cheaper, and you could certainly go more expensive, but we think that the Creative Fatal1ty HS-1000 hits the budget sweet-spot: strong performance at an amazing price.
✔ X-Fi drivers produce high fidelity
✔ Removable mic reduces geek factor
CPU Cooler
The CM Hyper 212 Plus quite epitomizes the “budget upgrade” concept. It requires minimal investment ($30 and half an hour) but can yield big returns for nearly any system. Skeptical? So were we. The Hyper 212 Plus is a CPU cooler with direct-contact heat pipes, which give it excellent performance for its size. It’s one of the best air coolers we’ve ever tested: On our test bed, it cooled a stock-clocked Q6700 at 100 percent CPU utilization down to just 43 C—an 18 C difference from Intel’s stock heatsink.
But why bother upgrading your CPU cooler at all? For the clocks, of course. Overclocking your CPU is the cheapest way to squeeze more performance out of your rig, but overclocked chips put out more heat. By getting a better cooler, you can sustain higher overclocks. Given that the Hyper 212 Plus can install on virtually any socket, performs better than any other air cooler we’ve tested, and only costs $30, it’s one of the best things you can do for your PC.
RAM
The Real Question is: 4GB or 6GB?
For budget buyers, it makes no sense to get caught up in the bandwidth wars that memory makers are waging today. The truth is, unless you use applications with particularly high bandwidth requirements, DDR3/1333 will work fine.
Ultimately, the amount of RAM you should run in a modern PC really depends on your CPU. If you are running an AMD system with dual-channel DDR3, the minimum is 4GB. Likewise, if you are rolling a dual-channel Intel system, then 4GB should be in your sights. Intel systems with tri-channel memory should run a minimum of 6GB of RAM. Anything above 6GB is gravy.
RAM bran: It will keep you regular.
Invariably, first-time upgraders want to know whose memory to buy. Since RAM is generally a commodity component, our guideline is to stick with known brands: Corsair, Crucial, Kingston, OCZ, Patriot. No yellow-box memory, please.
The good news is that RAM prices seem to have stabilized somewhat. We found 4GB of brand-name DDR3 for $100 on the street, with 6GB of brand-name DDR3/1333 in the $160 range.