Build It: A Powerful All-Purpose Rig for $830
Putting together an all-purpose rig under a strict budget is the best way to keep a PC builder on his or her toes
THE MISSION
Building expensive, over-the-top machines is easy. It’s when you dip below the $1,000 mark that it gets difficult. This month, I undertook the challenge of building the best all-around PC I could for less than $850. To me, that meant a machine good at multithreaded tasks as well as gaming. We’ve said it before, and we’ll stick to our guns: Intel’s Core i5-2500K is the sweet spot for price/performance. Unfortunately, that price is too high for this configuration. That left me pondering whether to do yet another Core i3 box or another AMD box.
Readers have been ragging on us about what fantastic deals Phenom II procs currently are. I looked high and low and, surprisingly, I did find some e-tailers selling Phenom IIs way below the list price. For just $139, you can net a 3.5GHz Phenom II X4 970. That gives you four cores, a much larger cache, and a fully unlocked part for not much more than the Athlon II X4 has been going for. The Phenom II X4 isn’t always a clear-cut winner against its Intel counterpart, the 3.3GHz Core i3-2120, but it does hold its own in multithreading tasks and game-related chores, which are all about the GPU.
Picking the Other Parts

I initially picked Nvidia’s GeForce 560 Ti card for this build, but later decided to swing ATI because our motherboard, a Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3, only offers CrossFireX support. To get SLI on an AMD board, you need to pony up for a 990FX chipset, which would have broken my budget. The best deal seems to be the Radeon HD 6950 card. The 6950 is a cut-down Radeon HD 6970 made to rain on the GeForce 560 Ti’s parade. Gigabyte’s GV-R695UD was about the cheapest I could find at the time, and it features enhanced cooling over a stock card.
When it came to the other components, I had one thing working for me and another against me. Working for me was system RAM. RAM is so cheap that building a rig with even 32GB is doable (provided you have eight DIMM slots). However, 4GB is about all you really need in a budget box—and all I could afford. Yes, 8GB would have been nice, but I had to save pennies for something really out of control: the hard drive.
Here's how dire things are right now: In August 2011, we built a $667 PC that had a 1TB WD Caviar Blue drive for $60. This year, I was happy to get a bare 500GB Western Digital Blue drive for $99. In fact, the drive I snagged for this build had already risen 30 percent in price by the time I finished building my rig. The same hard drive six months ago sold for $34!
I’m still sticking to the $99 price, as that was the price when I originally configured the machine, but by the time you read this, the hard drive could be $500, and we’ll be living in a dystopian world where people are scrounging e-waste dumps looking for 32MB USB keys discarded in 2003. I’ll pull up in my busted‑up $830 PC and some dirty, toothless PC mechanic will marvel at the “last of the 500GB Interceptors! A piece of history!”

Assembling the Hardware
1 Install the Brains
To keep things easy, I installed the Phenom II X4 970 with the board out of the case. First, drain any built-up static electricity by touching a large metal object. Unlock the AM3+ socket by lifting up the arm. Match the gold triangle in the CPU’s corner with the white corner marker on the motherboard.

Gently lower the chip into the socket until it rests flush with the socket. Now lock the arm in place, and you’ve just installed your CPU.

2 Install the Cooler and RAM
I went with the amazingly cheap ($20!) Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. It offers far more performance than the stock fan. To install it, first remove the stock mounting bracket from the motherboard by using a Phillips‑head screwdriver to remove both of the plastic brackets on top.

The metallic backplate on the back should now pop off. Reassemble the bracket and place this in your motherboard box in case you need it in the future. Now place a small dab of thermal paste on the CPU heat spreader. You can use a plastic bag as a makeshift glove to spread the paste on the heat spreader’s surface.
The Hyper 212 Plus comes with a backplate, which you will have to hold in place while you install the bracket. With the bracket in place, install four of the nut‑and‑screw assemblies to hold the bracket in place. Now use the included tool to lightly torque the screws in place.

Don’t over tighten, as it could chew into the motherboard. Remove the fan from the cooler, and spread the X-shaped bracket through the base of the cooler. Now, using a screwdriver, attach the x-bracket to the four exposed nuts with the four spring screws.

Once the cooler is firmly attached, snap the fan back in place and hook up the fan to a fan header. For my configuration, I set the fan to blow air through the cooler where it would be exhausted through the case’s rear fan.
While the board is out, you might as well install the RAM by matching up the notches in the RAM with the notches in the slots. On this board, I installed the pair of 2GB modules in the two blue slots.

If you’re not using this board, you should consult your manual to see how to install the RAM for dual-channel mode.