Build a Kick-Ass $500 Gaming PC, Play Crysis at 40FPS!
1. Prep the Power Supply
In most modern gaming cases, the power supply is mounted on the bottom of the chassis. In this instance, the PSU is at the top and came shipped to us already screwed in and ready to use. We prepped this PSU by moving its power cables out of the way to make room for the motherboard. As we stated in the parts list, we were a little hesitant to go with a bundled PSU, and wouldn't be too surprised if it failed while heavy gaming on a blistering summer day. You always have the option of running a third-party power supply, and if you decide to go that route, you'll need to unscrew the four screws holding the Rosewill PSU in and take out the unit by pulling it out towards the front of the case.
2. Drop in the CPU
Installing your processor is still one of the most delicate steps in building a PC, which is why dropping in the CPU before you mount the motherboard is the safest option. Before you install your processor, remove the black protective shield covering the socket and store it somewhere you won’t forget. Saving this small piece of plastic is a good idea, in case you need to send back the CPU or the motherboard to the manufacturers.
The next step is to unlatch the metal arm next to the socket and lift the retention plate. Then, inspect your CPU and the socket on the motherboard to make sure that the notches on both ends match up. There should be an imprinted triangle on one corner of the processor's heat spreader that should be aligned to a corresponding triangle on one corner of the socket frame. Carefully drop in the CPU, making sure to keep it parallel to the socket. Do not drop in the CPU at an angle and do not slide it around when it is in the socket, otherwise you may damage the pins on the processor, or the motherboard.

Once the CPU is in place, drop the retention clamp and then use your thumb to carefully push the metal locking arm down, making sure it clicks into position. The arm may feel a bit springy and resistant, but this is normal.

Now it’s time to add some cooling power to our processor.
3. Lock in the Heatsink
The retail version of the Intel CPU comes with a stock cooler. In our experience, stock coolers are more than sufficient, especially if you don’t plan on overclocking. Some would say that the cooler is even easier to apply, but in some instances it can be really difficult to secure the cooler to the motherboard.
For the sake of simplicity, the stock cooler removes a step with pre-applied thermal paste. Before you lock in the heatsink, make sure that you remove any protective film from the cooler’s thermal grease; leaving it on could cause your processor to overheat. Then, line up the four legs of the heatsink with the holes surrounding the processor bed. Let the cooler rest on top of the CPU. Make sure that each leg’s locking mechanism is in the install position with the legs facing outward, away from the center of the cooler. Press firmly on the first leg until you head a click and feel the pegs snap into place. Repeat the process on the opposite side.

Once you hear all four legs snapped in, you should be able to flip the motherboard over and see that they slightly stick out from the bottom. If you notice that there’s a leg not fully secured or the heatsink still feels lose, try unlocking it with a flathead screwdriver and repeating the process. It may take several tries before you’re successful.

After the cooler is securely fastened to the motherboard, plug in the fan’s four-pin power cable into the corresponding four-pin head on the motherboard. Make sure there aren’t any wires caught in the CPU fan.

4. Mount the Motherboard
Before you can install the motherboard, you’ll need to install the I/O shield, which is the metal plate that labels your inputs and outputs on the back of the case. But first, you’ll need to pop out the default shield that comes equipped with your case. Use your screwdriver to push out the I/O shield from inside the case. Then, take the new I/O shield and push it in from outside of the case; it might takes a few hits of your screwdriver bottom to lock it in. Bend the tabs towards the outside of the case so that the ports protruding from the side of your motherboard will fit comfortably.
